It might have an FCU because it is on a ring circuit.
Replacement Single Oven - 13A or 16A
- Thread starter imroberts
- Start date
Sponsored Links
Indeed - as I said, as a personal preference over a plug/socket.
Kind Regards, John
As EFLI has implied, if it is a sockets circuit (ring or radial), then a "13A" oven would need (unless one wants to invoke the argument that the feed to an oven does not need overload protection!) either a FCU or a BS1363 plug (in either case with a 13A fuse).
Kind Regards, John
It looks like I've kicked off a bit of a debate!
To clarify, the existing oven is on a Switched FCU which acts as the isolator switch. I guess an FCU was preferred as it's visible and looks neater than a plug would have? I've done some more checking this afternoon as I've only recently moved into the house and wasn't sure what was connected where, but the FCU is on a 30A ring circuit along with a number of other kitchen items.
From the advice that's been offered, I think I should be fine connecting the new oven to the existing FCU protected by a 13A fuse? Especially if it is indeed rated at 2.99kW and not 3.60kW as I suspect?
If the worst comes to the worse and I do need a separate 16A circuit, I can pick up the newer oven for over £100 less than the older model anyway, so the cost will probably be broadly similar with an end result of a dedicated circuit and a newer model of oven.
To clarify, the existing oven is on a Switched FCU which acts as the isolator switch. I guess an FCU was preferred as it's visible and looks neater than a plug would have? I've done some more checking this afternoon as I've only recently moved into the house and wasn't sure what was connected where, but the FCU is on a 30A ring circuit along with a number of other kitchen items.
From the advice that's been offered, I think I should be fine connecting the new oven to the existing FCU protected by a 13A fuse? Especially if it is indeed rated at 2.99kW and not 3.60kW as I suspect?
If the worst comes to the worse and I do need a separate 16A circuit, I can pick up the newer oven for over £100 less than the older model anyway, so the cost will probably be broadly similar with an end result of a dedicated circuit and a newer model of oven.
Sponsored Links
As I said, that is essentially what I suspected.
Again, what we were speculating about. In that case, most people would probably say that a plug/socket or FCU would be needed, to avoid the flex to the cable having to be rated to carry 30A (although a few would argue that an oven was incapable of producing such an 'overload'!).
Yep, as you know I have twice indicated that such is my personal view, and I'm happy to make that three times
Well, that's obviously your choice - but I I still think that the above approach would be fine.
Kind Regards, John
If that happened, that could be an explanation, but I doubt that it would happen.
Anecdotally (to at least indicate that what you suggest is not an inevitability), one of my daughters has a similarly rated oven to the OP's which has been plugged into a socket (hence a 13A fuse in the plug) since she moved into the house in 2004 (hence ~15 years) and I'm pretty sure that she's never had to replace the fuse (because I would have be contacted 'for advice' - or, more likely, to actually do it
).A lot of ovens are sold in the UK with fitted plugs (and 13A fuses). Do you think that's wrong? Are the people who buy them warned that the fuses are likely to blow every few months?
Kind Regards, John
They do!
Ovens suitable for connection to 13A sockets are supplied with plugs on them.
Ones that aren’t suitable don’t have plugs!
But yeah I’m sure it will be fine
Ovens suitable for connection to 13A sockets are supplied with plugs on them.
Ones that aren’t suitable don’t have plugs!
But yeah I’m sure it will be fine
Thanks everyone for your advice. I'll go with the newer model and connect it to the existing FCU. I'm fairly sure it's only 2.99kW anyway, and the rated cycle consumption (if that's the right term) is under 1kW so in reality it feels like it'll be fine.
If the fuse does prematurely age and becomes a nuisance, I don't mind paying for a new dedicated circuit. The kitchen backs onto the garage where the CU is so it wouldn't be a massive job, just one I'd like to avoid if I can!
Thanks again for the advice.
If the fuse does prematurely age and becomes a nuisance, I don't mind paying for a new dedicated circuit. The kitchen backs onto the garage where the CU is so it wouldn't be a massive job, just one I'd like to avoid if I can!
Thanks again for the advice.
True.
It doesn't.
https://www.google.pt/search?ei=ARD...1......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71.sJHbVAXe6Lg
Just saying.
I would probably agree that it was 'fixed' if the 'fixing went just a bit further ...
JohnW2 said:
This query should really be in the appliances forum. You are correct when you say that 16A is the rating and it does not always have 16A flowing. However, that is because not all loads will be 16A. In the UK a socket outlet can be used up to 2,990W, but your oven is rated at 3600W so it is too high for you to use a 13 amp fuse. You need to run a dedicated circuit for your oven (or get the lower rated oven in your post).
As a matter of interest, are you saying that because you do not believe in the application of diversity for cooking appliances at all (i.e. you believe that a 32A 'cooker circuit' should not be used to supply cooking appliances which represent a total maximum load of more than 7.36 kW), or is it because you feel, specifically, that diversity should not be applied to a single oven?
Kind Regards, John
Maybe cus it going to draw 15A when the oven is on and the fuse will get hot in the fuse holder?
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
