You're not wrong there. Had the van over 17 years and this is the first time I'm changing them. Admittedly I haven't put big miles on it.
Scudo (Expert/Dispatch) Rear Shoe Auto Adjuster Questions?
- Thread starter ReganAndCarter
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You're not wrong there. Had the van over 17 years and this is the first time I'm changing them. Admittedly I haven't put big miles on it.
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Can I canvas opinions on what you do about some sort of lubrication on the backplate where the shoes come into contact with it. See varying opinions, mainly -
1) No lubricant - just clean up/wire brush
2) Slight smear of copper grease
3) Anti-seize smear
On the anti seize I'm not sure which one you would use but saw a video of someone putting a smear of a white anti-seize on the contact surfaces of back plate. He said he didn't use copper grease because all the brake dust would just stick to it and clog it up. Wondering what this magic anti-seize is that doesn't attract brake dust?
EDIT
Maybe the white anti-seize I saw was this aluminium one that's copper free?
www.eurocarparts.com
1) No lubricant - just clean up/wire brush
2) Slight smear of copper grease
3) Anti-seize smear
On the anti seize I'm not sure which one you would use but saw a video of someone putting a smear of a white anti-seize on the contact surfaces of back plate. He said he didn't use copper grease because all the brake dust would just stick to it and clog it up. Wondering what this magic anti-seize is that doesn't attract brake dust?
EDIT
Maybe the white anti-seize I saw was this aluminium one that's copper free?
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Nothing for me I agree that the dust will stick to anything greasy.
A good wire brush down and clean up.
A good wire brush down and clean up.
OK, thanks. That's what I always did in the past. Reading around a bit more, looks like anti seize is mainly for non moving parts that won't be dismantled for a long time, so not brakes.
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I like to give just a smear of any HMP grease....the shoes do actually move on the backplate, but admittedly not very much.
Backplates rust well too!
Each to his own.
John
Backplates rust well too!
Each to his own.
John
Stops the squeak when they move too.I like to give just a smear of any HMP grease....the shoes do actually move on the backplate, but admittedly not very much.
Backplates rust well too!
Each to his own.
John
I never put any type of grease on any brake parts.
During my apprenticeship, my tradesman kicked my arse for putting Coppaslip on brake pads.
If everything is cleaned properly, nothing will squeal and nothing will stick.
When they come out the factory, they don't come greased. That is what you are trying to achieve when replacing parts.
During my apprenticeship, my tradesman kicked my arse for putting Coppaslip on brake pads.
If everything is cleaned properly, nothing will squeal and nothing will stick.
When they come out the factory, they don't come greased. That is what you are trying to achieve when replacing parts.
OK, but I'd rather my brake pads didn't rust into their lands......
I'll still do things my way!
John
I'll still do things my way!
John
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Some do, some don't.OK, but I'd rather my brake pads didn't rust into their lands......
I'll still do things my way!
John
I'm in the don't camp. But it doesn't make you wrong
Backplates look ok, in fact all looks quite shiny in there for a 20 year old.
Except the cylinders pishing out everywhere. Got there just in time. More work, more money!
Except the cylinders pishing out everywhere. Got there just in time. More work, more money!
Very best of luck shifting the brake pipe connection mate........bloody tight they are as a rule.
John
John
Can't be as bad as CV boots or speed sensor!
Thanks for the warning, John. Got a split/open end ring spanner for that purpose, but can guarantee the connections haven't moved since manufacture.
Guessing heat is my friend if it's bad? And plenty of Plus Gas?
EDIT.
Just thinking my open ended flare nut ring spanner may be imperial. Any idea what size would be needed for this vehicle?
Last edited:
From memory I think it's a 9 or 11mm but don't rely on that one!
I have a small but quality pair of Mole grips that usually comes to my rescue.
Another aggro with these things is that the bleed nipple has to be released too - hopefully without shearing off. Full hexagon socket for that one.
I don't use much heat here as I don't want to boil the brake fluid or burn the seals - that's the point of no return, really.
If the pipe doesn't free from the cylinder you can take it back to the nearest flexible connection and try from there.
Now it's confession time.......! I have been known to replace the pistons and seals only, leaving the original cylinder alone - a bit of a bodge but it has worked for me. It's vital of course that the pistons are the same diameter.
The cylinders are held on by two small bolts or a circlip, depending on design and age.
Wishing you luck!
John
I have a small but quality pair of Mole grips that usually comes to my rescue.
Another aggro with these things is that the bleed nipple has to be released too - hopefully without shearing off. Full hexagon socket for that one.
I don't use much heat here as I don't want to boil the brake fluid or burn the seals - that's the point of no return, really.
If the pipe doesn't free from the cylinder you can take it back to the nearest flexible connection and try from there.
Now it's confession time.......! I have been known to replace the pistons and seals only, leaving the original cylinder alone - a bit of a bodge but it has worked for me. It's vital of course that the pistons are the same diameter.
The cylinders are held on by two small bolts or a circlip, depending on design and age.
Wishing you luck!
John
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