shower pump
- Thread starter nabby68
- Start date
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yes. i have connected the feed for the pump to the outlet on the flange which supplies "air free" water and the other outlet to vent pipe and DHW
I thin k iwill try what gasguru suggested and lower the temp on my HWC and see if that works, dont want to fit an anti-gravity loop if not necesary due to the space constraints in airing cupboard
You recently said:
And you seem to have a variety of boilers in your house or many different houses
Anyway, dependent on whether the tank can refill as fast as the shower (and other taps) will determine a realistic water level in the tank. The height from the top of the water level to the pump should ideally be a couple of meters but the pump may well work down to 0.6 meters.
The higher the water temperature the more chance of cavitation (and damage to the pump). Set the stat to 60 but be aware they can be inaccurate so it may require setting to a lower figure.
Remove all speedfit fittings - they are often far too restrictive especially in pipe layouts such as this. I can't remember whether you can use metal inserts and compression fittings with this pipe. If not rip the lot out and use another make or copper for a proper job.
Finaly as Balenza suggests fit the no stop Essex since this is very free flowing.
Pumps work best pushing water - thats why they should always be installed next to the cylider if possible.
nabby68 said:
And you seem to have a variety of boilers in your house or many different houses
Anyway, dependent on whether the tank can refill as fast as the shower (and other taps) will determine a realistic water level in the tank. The height from the top of the water level to the pump should ideally be a couple of meters but the pump may well work down to 0.6 meters.
The higher the water temperature the more chance of cavitation (and damage to the pump). Set the stat to 60 but be aware they can be inaccurate so it may require setting to a lower figure.
Remove all speedfit fittings - they are often far too restrictive especially in pipe layouts such as this. I can't remember whether you can use metal inserts and compression fittings with this pipe. If not rip the lot out and use another make or copper for a proper job.
Finaly as Balenza suggests fit the no stop Essex since this is very free flowing.
Pumps work best pushing water - thats why they should always be installed next to the cylider if possible.
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The minimum "supply head" is 600mm. That means from the base of the CSC.
Also from the MI,s " If the pump is positioned above the hot water cylinder: ensure the pipe work to the pump from the cylinder has a downward loop. This will prevent air locks "
Salamander recommend at least 250mm. Salamander also state a no-stop essex flange MUST be used in instances where the pump is sited above the hot outlet from the cylinder.
Also from the MI,s " If the pump is positioned above the hot water cylinder: ensure the pipe work to the pump from the cylinder has a downward loop. This will prevent air locks "
Salamander recommend at least 250mm. Salamander also state a no-stop essex flange MUST be used in instances where the pump is sited above the hot outlet from the cylinder.
well, the latter is true, but shhh, dont tell that nasty tax man!
i think you may have missunderstood me, i have used copper pipe but speed fit connections
think this maybe a last resort as the reason for fitting the surrey flange was it was a lot easier, the essex flange has to go directly into the side of the tank!
not sure , this maybe beyond my capabilitieslike i said , the problem is that the hot water pressure to the shower drops dramatically after approx 6 mins and the pump starts to struggle. Before i fitted the surrey flange, the pump would struggle straight away, so, the surrey flange has improved it.
I think i will try your suggestion about the temp of the HWC.
Thanks Gasguru and Balenza, keep the suggestion coming though
I can't see why it should be anything to do with speedfit fittings (which are often supplied on the hoses) as their internal diameters aren't restricted. There's probably more of a restriction in the Surrey flange.
What may be happening is that the resistance to flow of the water going down into the HWC from the CW cistern is more than enough to lower the water level in the vent pipe to the point where air starts to get into the cylinder, and through the flange, to the pump. It takes a few minutes to do it, typically. As a purely temporary measure, if you put eg a speedfit cap on the vent pipe you'll be able to prove it. Under no circumstances leave it there.
An anti-gravity loop is for what it says, to stop circulation by gravity (convection) which could lead to bubbles of air getting into the pipe, but these soon go through the pump, and don't form after a few minutes.
Problems due to the water being too hot start immediately the pump warms up - the hottest water is at the top of the cylinder.
What may be happening is that the resistance to flow of the water going down into the HWC from the CW cistern is more than enough to lower the water level in the vent pipe to the point where air starts to get into the cylinder, and through the flange, to the pump. It takes a few minutes to do it, typically. As a purely temporary measure, if you put eg a speedfit cap on the vent pipe you'll be able to prove it. Under no circumstances leave it there.
An anti-gravity loop is for what it says, to stop circulation by gravity (convection) which could lead to bubbles of air getting into the pipe, but these soon go through the pump, and don't form after a few minutes.
Problems due to the water being too hot start immediately the pump warms up - the hottest water is at the top of the cylinder.
At the moment, absolutely not - personally I'm just waiting for you to actually follow his suggestion and report back.
If you have a problem - any problem - then you need to work through it, deciding on possible causes and eliminating them systematically, usually in order of ease, cheapness and likelihood.
I don't understand the process you're using, which, seemingly, is to ignore some expert advice and canvass for more.
If you have a problem - any problem - then you need to work through it, deciding on possible causes and eliminating them systematically, usually in order of ease, cheapness and likelihood.
I don't understand the process you're using, which, seemingly, is to ignore some expert advice and canvass for more.
i am not choosing to ignore any greatly appreciated advice, just that in chris r's suggestion he gives me a method to verify the problem, but no solution if that deems to be the problem.
i am in the process of working through the two suggestions which are the easiest ones to try first
ie temp reduction on the HWC and then to cap the vent pipe, will report back on my findings
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