If I can get inside without the whole thing falling to pieces (those 'unwelcome surprises' :- ), I imagine I could solder a bit of T+E. I think that getting Wagos into that 'well' would be pretty marginal - but, even if I could, the pedantic amongst us might say that they were not, strictly speaking, 'enclosed', mightn't they? [ and I guess it would have to be 3 Wago's, since the CPC of the T+E would have to be 'parked' somewhere]
Small LED Ceiling Light
- Thread starter JohnW2
- Start date
I would go with the suggestion to use 2 connectors to be safe. I would not take the light apart.
Ferrules/cord ends?
Indeed -I'm inclined to agree. As I've said, past experiences (admittedly rare) of 'unwelcome surprises' when taking things apart make me a little reluctant to take it apart, even though two connectors does not feel very nice (even though virtually no-one will ever see them!).
I dare say I'll come to regret being this 'honest', but were it not for regs, possible subsequent 'inspectors' and the fact that I'm discussing this 'in public', I'd probably just push three in-line Wagos through a tiny hole in the ceiling
Kind Regards, John
That was one of my first thoughts. However ...
(1) I don't have a proper tool for crimping ferrules
(2) the push-in terminals are said to be suitable for 1.0 - 1.5 mm² solid conductors, and
(2a) I'm not sure whether ferrules with ODs as small as that of a 1.5 mm² solid conductor exist, and
(2b) even if they do exist, I'm not sure that the stranded conductor of the fittings flex would necessarily fit into it.
Tin the flex ends.
Traditionally, that is very probably what I would have done (and its still tempting!). However, although I imagine that it's much less (if any) of a potential issue with spring-loaded (as opposed to screwed) terminals, I did not 'dare' to mention it here, through fear of the flak it might attract
Why should it attract flack?Traditionally, that is very probably what I would have done (and its still tempting!). However, although I imagine that it's much less (if any) of a potential issue with spring-loaded (as opposed to screwed) terminals, I did not 'dare' to mention it here, through fear of the flak it might attract
Possibly, copper coated steel?
Put on your flak jacket,get under a table and then suggest that one should always tin a stranded conductor before putting it into a screwed terminal (something which I used to often do, particularly with thin stranded conductors), and your question might well be answered
As I said, I suspect it's not much, if any, of an issue with spring-loaded terminals, because the spring should take up any looseness due to 'creep' of the solder
Last edited:
That was my first though, but my magnet said 'No'(unless it's stainless steel!).
However, it's a case of needing a tripto Specsavers (which is actually true, since I have very recently undergone cataract surgery, and therefore need new 'near-vision' glasses) - since, now that I've got out a magnifying glass, it's apparent that the stiffness of the end of the conductors is due to there being ferrules on them (see pic below).
The ferrules are pretty short, but I nevertheless think that they will probably work OK with the Quickwire connector, thereby rendering moot most of the recent discussion and allowing me a 'one connector' solution (just one 'switch & load' Quickwire connector).
Smallest Wago box is 50mm on the diagonal.
Also, I bought one of these incarnations of those slim round lights:
(Although in a smaller size).
It has no captive cable, so you could just take the circuit cable directly to it.
Indeed. If one is happy with a whole a bit over 50mm diameter, quite a lot of options become possible. However, I was hoping for a somewhat smaller hole than than (and it seems that the Quickwire thingies satisfy that desire).
As I've said, I suspect that opening up my one would not be a problem (seemingly just 8 screws,rather than a 'tin opener' job), but would ideal like to avoid any 'surprises'.
However, as I've recently written, I think I may have 'solved the problem', by discovering that the ends of the captive cable' on mine has ferrules - so it may well go directly into a push-fit Quickwire terminal, despite the short length of the ferrules/
A bit of an update, since the Quickwire "Switch and Load" connector has now arrived.
It does do 'what it says on the tin' with T+E, provided that one strips both insulation and sheath pretty accurately to the specified lengths. The "cable removing tool" also works. However ...
1... Despite my hopes, there's probably no way that one could get flex into it, even with the ferrules. One locks/activates the spring-loaded terminals by pushing (pretty hard!) on the cable, and it is the sheath of the T+E that then does the 'pushing'.. It wouldn't work with flex. I'm therefore stuck with some sort of 'two connectors approach (unless I take the fitting apart and run T+E all the way into it).
2... Although it's probably true thst the connector itself would fit through a 32mm diameter hole, in practice one would (at least in my situation) need a hole appreciably bigger than that. The 'load' and 'switch' cables come out of the same end of the connector, which means that the switch one would have to do a tight U-tern and be pulled through the hole beside the connector. However, the Quickwire "JB" is 'MF-marked', so could legitimately be left 'inaccessible' above the ceiling, so that all that would then be required in the ceiling would be a hole big enough for some sort of second connector (or 'connections'!), with only one cable emerging from the 'load' end, downstream of the Quickwire to pass through.
Kind Regards, John
It does do 'what it says on the tin' with T+E, provided that one strips both insulation and sheath pretty accurately to the specified lengths. The "cable removing tool" also works. However ...
1... Despite my hopes, there's probably no way that one could get flex into it, even with the ferrules. One locks/activates the spring-loaded terminals by pushing (pretty hard!) on the cable, and it is the sheath of the T+E that then does the 'pushing'.. It wouldn't work with flex. I'm therefore stuck with some sort of 'two connectors approach (unless I take the fitting apart and run T+E all the way into it).
2... Although it's probably true thst the connector itself would fit through a 32mm diameter hole, in practice one would (at least in my situation) need a hole appreciably bigger than that. The 'load' and 'switch' cables come out of the same end of the connector, which means that the switch one would have to do a tight U-tern and be pulled through the hole beside the connector. However, the Quickwire "JB" is 'MF-marked', so could legitimately be left 'inaccessible' above the ceiling, so that all that would then be required in the ceiling would be a hole big enough for some sort of second connector (or 'connections'!), with only one cable emerging from the 'load' end, downstream of the Quickwire to pass through.
Kind Regards, John
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Similar threads
