Spirit levels - the choices arrh!

[noseall]

My big level for internal levelling/plumbing of beams, frames, setting out etc is a Fatmax XL1800mm. It's bloody heavy but oddly, much easier to handle than the previous light Stabila and does not get easily knocked or blown over or slide about. Bubbles are very easy to see from all directions. Only downside is the bubble water has faded to clear after a relatively short period of time (less than 10 years) and it's not been in the sun much.

If I was buying new levels now for internal setting out, I'd get one's with illuminated bubbles.

I got a Bosch digital level a few years back and it's great for levelling when you can't see the level. Just put it on the thing and listen for the tone. Should have got one years back. Also great for setting things (like patios ) with a constant fall as you can set the angle required.

Ours are used for many things, but are bought with bricklaying (wieldy) in mind. Knowing they will be something like (max) two years old when replaced, means not worrying too much about the surface durability of the vials. There's a brand new 1200 stabila, still in the wraps, sitting in the van waiting to be promoted.
Anyone that has built a 450mm square pillar (12 levelling/plumbing points) will understand just how important it is to feel right in the hands.

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

1200 levels last us about a year. Sometimes less if we do a lot of bricklaying. The Stabila bar levels are not that expensive (comparatively), but they are robust. If you'd ever done a lot of bricklaying, you'd understand. If not, you don't have the first clue. I'd probably get through half a dozen cheap levels in the same period. Tradesmen soon learn to stay away from tat.

Yeah, thanks for the needless patronising sad attempt at willy waggling.

Bad attitude aside, you obviously didn't read the first line of the first post...

I'm doing a DIY project

 

[noseall]

Acuracy is the number one priority.

Always.

Do not take windy's advice.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Acuracy is the number one priority.

Builder's levels are not that accurate, they simply don't need to be that accurate, or sensitive. Proper engineers levels are much more sensitive and accurate, to a tiny fraction of a degree.

 

[blup]

Hi all I'm doing a DIY project of laying a porcelain tiled patio and need a set of acurate spirit levels (must include an 1800mm one) that won't cost me an arm and a leg. Acuracy is the number one priority. I only really need them for this one project so longevity isn't too important. Any recommendations please? I'm guessing this question may start a riot but please be kind. Many thanks in advance Andy

Ive found the the fat max from sfix to be robust and accurate

Blup

 

[mrrusty]

I'm doing a DIY project of laying a porcelain tiled patio

Throwing a curve ball....It's a darn site easier using a laser, stick, and a few level pegs to set out a patio than it is to use a spirit level. Even the cheapest little bosch quigo works outside if you do the setting out early morning or evening when the light levels are low. Having one of these is also very handy for tiling, kitchens, floors etc.

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

You could use a laser level to set out the string levels, you'd need to calculate the vertical fall needed and offset accordingly.

I'd use a gradient level for a patio. You could buy some fancy electronic adjustable thing if you want the best, or at the cheapest end of the scale you could tape a block under one end of your level but that's not that good as it only works over its full length, no use at all for any smaller bits, e.g. edgings, corners etc.

Personally, I've been using a cheap Silverline one for years (no longer available), it's done paving, decking and underground drainage. Does the job, but I'm sure others prefer to blow their money on some reassuringly expensive thing. I've seen so-called professionals use a standard level and are happy it's about right if the bubble's a bit off-centre.

Sorry if having an opinion offends any experts!

 

[^woody^]

You can set out a patio with a laser, but you can't lay a patio with one. You need a level for setting the slabs/tiles and checking the surfaces for flush alignment.

 

[^woody^]

Personally, I've been using a cheap Silverline one for years (no longer available), it's done paving, decking and underground drainage. Does the job, but I'm sure others prefer to blow their money on some reassuringly expensive thing. I've seen so-called professionals use a standard level and are happy it's about right if the bubble's a bit off-centre.

Yes cheap tools may well be fine but it's all about context. My old man used various timber levels for all levelling, and he knew its limitations and deficiencies and compensated for them, and he did a job as good as anyone.

A professional must be able to rely on the tool, and it being accurate when needed. However a good tradesman knows how to use an amateur tool professionally, that is the difference.

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

A professional must be able to rely on the tool, and it being accurate when needed. However a good tradesman knows how to use an amateur tool professionally, that is the difference.

I've no idea what you're trying to say or what's with the attitude. Using an amateur tool professionally, what the heck does that mean?

This is a DIY forum (the clue's in the name), the thread is about a DIY project.

Are DIYers required to bow and grovel at the feet of those who drive a white van according to some? I find the tone from some pretty bloody silly, there are some big fish in a tiny puddle here, emperors of their imaginary world.

 

[^woody^]

I know it's Monday but, FFS.

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

Sorry, you may have been on the receiving end of my response to noseall's attitude there.

But what do you mean by using a level professionally? Forgive my lack of a copy of The Sun and a bag of chips on the dashboard, but what is there to know other than whether the bubble's in the middle or not?

I think we all understand the concept of level, and I'm sure we can agree that there are limitations and inaccuracies in all measurements. But we're talking about laying a patio here ffs, not building a suspension bridge.

Any level from any poundshop should be up to this job, and there would be no advantage to paying more. But a gradient level is what's actually needed, again cheap would be utterly fine and do every bit as good a job as any other at any price. The surface roughness/variation in any slab would be greater than the inaccuracy in any level at any price, I don't understand what people are getting so up their own arses about.

 

[mrrusty]

But a gradient level is what's actually needed,

...or do what the pro's who laid our drive do and work to a 1/3 of a bubble!

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

...or do what the pro's who laid our drive do and work to a 1/3 of a bubble!

Exactly. I got a supposedly professional groundworks company in for a deep dig/install I needed (installing a sewage treatment plant). They install drainage regularly, it's their bread and butter. But they'd never seen a gradient level, they were fascinated by mine and confessed they usually just installed pipes so the bubble was a bit off-centre. Shocking.

They'd also never seen a pipe chamfer, and were fascinated when I used mine while they were here...

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[mrrusty]

was a bit off-centre. Shocking

umm, why? it's what I do to - check the fall needed and see where the bubble is and work to that. Why not? If you want to be really tricky, you can put a felt-pen mark on the bubble