Sundial Y v Sundial S

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I think I'll go down the Sundial Y route cos the room with the roomstat in don't have TRV's n I can forget the valve :)

Its the same with s-plan you won't need one either,in this situation(two locksheilds)
unless you have more than one heating zone

matt
 
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Eeerrr, I thought a bypass valve was needed with an S plan cos if both valves shut as a result of a fault, it'll stop the boiler blowing up if it keeps tryin to work . If I don't have to fit one of these things GREAT , have I got the wrong end of the stick?
 
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I've just looked on the Honeywell bypass valve PDF...........Fudge me! a mere mortal like me isn't meant to understand that surely!

If my system doesn't have any TRV's can I forget the ABV?
 
When TRVs close the pressure in the system rises.
I think you meant MZVs ;)

is that your opinion based on your vast experience in the plumbing and heating industry
i think you talk pants :rolleyes:

diyedboy said:
I've just looked on the Honeywell bypass valve PDF...........Fudge me! a mere mortal like me isn't meant to understand that surely!

will you be told its a freaking adjustable spring loaded tap :LOL:
 
Yes you lovely Kev!. of course I will be told..................but you need to tell me EXACTLY how to set the thing, a tap with a spring ain't that helpful
 
I ususally do it as follows:

Close the bypass fully.
Turn the boiler on at minimum rate with the normal flow blocked.
Open the bypass little by little, whilst I hold the pipe just after the valve.
When I feel the pipe getting warm, I open it one more turn.
 
you fit it first

then tweak it till you get no noise from the boiler when the cylinder / trvs close down

hell fella we have talked you through far more complicated things than this ;)
 
Bengas.................thanks for that............but how do I 'stop the normal flow'?
 
Ahh, good one...............select HW only, then close the balance valve, n fire up the boiler on minimum, yeah, I can do that :)
 

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