Testing that the controller is live and working?

[EddieM]

Use one of these for the earth cable.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pieces-Cable-Connector-Terminals-Assortment/dp/B07QXH3SLD

Other sources are available.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Use one of these for the earth cable.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pieces-Cable-Connector-Terminals-Assortment/dp/B07QXH3SLD

Other sources are available.

That requires the use of a proper crimper to fit them. The usual method is to strip a suitably long length, form it into a circle/loop then wrap the loose end around itself. Fitted on the stud, so that tightening the nut makes loop even tighter.

 

[Keitai]

Use one of these for the earth cable.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pieces-Cable-Connector-Terminals-Assortment/dp/B07QXH3SLD

Other sources are available.

One of these ? With a tight fit around bolt. I have a crimping machine. Will these yellow ones work as well as brass ?

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

The ring is too large a diameter and you need a blue version to suit your cable size.

You also need some shoes on, standing on an open blade in socks can be very painful

 

[Keitai]

You need to re do the connection of the brown ,live, conductor into the thermostat . All of the copper conductors should be inside the terminal ,and only the insulation showing outside.
The earth connection ,again ,needs to be re connected so the wires are not splayed out .
At the timer ,the cable restraint (clamp ) is missing and must be re fitted to clamp the outer sheath of the cable. Likewise on the other clamp on the other cable.

Cable restraint is down that was just in photo before I put it on. Will sort live into thermostat. Another thing I noticed when I went to isolate is the isolation switch is hot to the touch The switch in photo. What's that about?

 

[terryplumb]

Checking the wiring at the switch for loose connections would be worth while. A 20 amp double pole switch would be a better option. But you need to tell us more about the circuit that supplies that fused connection unit / immersion heater. Does it have it's own dedicated circuit at the consumer unit or fuseboard ?

 

[Keitai]

Checking the wiring at the switch for loose connections would be worth while. A 20 amp double pole switch would be a better option. But you need to tell us more about the circuit that supplies that fused connection unit / immersion heater. Does it have it's own dedicated circuit at the consumer unit or fuseboard ?

I'll isolate the fused connection unit at rcd and I'll check it's not live with multi meter as well.

So I photographed the fused connection switch which got hot it's wire goes through wall to another fuse looking box thing I've circled then somehow it goes to the RCD unit from there. I photographed the switch i press to isolate the immersion it's named water heater. Does this mean it has it's own dedicated circuit or is it a spur? Hope these photos answer the question.

I have also noticed the light flickering from time to time as well.

 

[terryplumb]

It appears to be a 16 amp MCB ,which is fine ,and typical ,for a radial circuit to an immersion heater. No idea why there is a blanking plate on the wall outside ,it may have nothing to do with the immersion .Only investigation would uncover what's behind it.
I can't see any point in having the fused connection unit ,which almost certainly has a 13 amp fuse in it ,if that 16 amp MCB does indeed protect the immersion circuit.

 

[Keitai]

It appears to be a 16 amp MCB ,which is fine ,and typical ,for a radial circuit to an immersion heater. No idea why there is a blanking plate on the wall outside ,it may have nothing to do with the immersion .Only investigation would uncover what's behind it.
I can't see any point in having the fused connection unit ,which almost certainly has a 13 amp fuse in it ,if that 16 amp MCB does indeed protect the immersion circuit.

So the best thing after checking if there are any loose connections in the fused connection switch would be to change it to a 20 Amp double pole switch fitted and connected in place of where the fused switch is? So fused switch disconnected and 20 A mp double pole connected with same wires?

 

[terryplumb]

Might be worth showing pics of what you find. For all we know that FCU may supply something else as well as the immersion.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

another fuse looking box thing I've circled

That is just a blanking plate, the cable probably comes up that way, then through to the other side where your switch is located.

 

[mattylad]

The purple area where you showed your idea to fit the timer, is that directly in line with the stopcock?
Me I'd rather fit it where I can get in to see it from the front so I can set it easier and not have anything restrict access to the stopcock.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

The purple area where you showed your idea to fit the timer, is that directly in line with the stopcock?
Me I'd rather fit it where I can get in to see it from the front so I can set it easier and not have anything restrict access to the stopcock.

Me, being me, I would mount it on a hinged plate - so I could swing it out to set it, then back out of the way.

 

[333rocky333]

Not sure why immersions burn out and overheat 13 amp spurs, surely there designed for that load, maybe try a better quality switch first, though as others say if its on the 16a trip then fit a 20a DP switch but get a good quality one

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Not sure why immersions burn out and overheat 13 amp spurs

It does seem to be a modern phenomenon, it used to happen, but not nearly so much. 13amp plugs and sockets are similar - not to be entirely trusted for the full 13amps on a sustained load. My guess - its down to a race to the bottom on cost and quality.