How about on the back wall. Able to slide on and off something on the wall incase I need to change it . So the controller wont be fixed itself to wall but will slot into something that is. On the back wall so in front of you if a little further back. The cable long although not 2m length it currently is
Testing that the controller is live and working?
- Thread starter Keitai
- Start date
- Status
Sponsored Links
These are photos of FCU and the thing connected to it the other side of wall. Shall I undo screws on FCC and connected all the wires back in tightly?
Attachments
Those burnt overheated wires need to be replaced. Any connection to those will fail and overheat again.
The FCU is inappropriate and unnecessary.
You need to clear all that stuff out of the consumer unit / meter cupboard as it's a fire risk.
Flex to the immersion is far too long
A professional electrician could have had this completely sorted within an hour.
The FCU is inappropriate and unnecessary.
You need to clear all that stuff out of the consumer unit / meter cupboard as it's a fire risk.
Flex to the immersion is far too long
A professional electrician could have had this completely sorted within an hour.
Sponsored Links
The other side of the wall, was where the switch was originally located, but it has been moved to inside the cupboard.
The red in the switch is blackened, so that is the cause of the heating. It might be the switch, the fuse, or a poor connection. Best just replace that with a new 20amp double pole switch, with a warning light - no need for the fuse, it is pointless - that is taken care of by the 16amp MCB at your consumer unit.
Rather than have the switch in the cupboard, it can be put back where it was originally located - the other side of the wall, with your flex going through the wall to the timer. I cannot imagine why anyone would want to move it anyway, it make it much more awkward to use and you would have no indication whether it was on or not, unless you looked in the cupboard.
The red in the switch is blackened, so that is the cause of the heating. It might be the switch, the fuse, or a poor connection. Best just replace that with a new 20amp double pole switch, with a warning light - no need for the fuse, it is pointless - that is taken care of by the 16amp MCB at your consumer unit.
Rather than have the switch in the cupboard, it can be put back where it was originally located - the other side of the wall, with your flex going through the wall to the timer. I cannot imagine why anyone would want to move it anyway, it make it much more awkward to use and you would have no indication whether it was on or not, unless you looked in the cupboard.
C
Captain Nemesis
Or get a neater looking timer and put it on the wall where that blank is thus being accessible as required.
So put double pole switch other side of wall. Disconnect that black thing in wall thatside and connect wires to the double pole switch there. Then run wire through hole to timer then sort out emersion wire.
C
Captain Nemesis
That's a 20A double pole switch and controller in one? Just buy that and forget old timer and separate 20 A double pole swutch or FCU? Wire it on wall where it used to be outside carboard .
Last edited:
Yes, but the fuse in the unit is unnecessary.
Anyway, I'll either wire it up, moving the junction box out of wall then get an electrician to check everything or let him wire it himself. But its probably just self explanatory live where it says live etc then screwed into wall and emersion cable needs pushing through into it. And tidying up attached to wall.
You might ask why didn't call an electrician in the beginning but I want to know how to do the basic things myself and know what's going on to save time and money in future but safely of course. But this hot FCU has got me scared.
This is best choice I guess even if fuse not needed
You might ask why didn't call an electrician in the beginning but I want to know how to do the basic things myself and know what's going on to save time and money in future but safely of course. But this hot FCU has got me scared.
This is best choice I guess even if fuse not needed
No back box for this unit so will need to get one and this will be needed to earth either the emersion or mains earth.
You already have the metal back box outside the cupboard, plus a second surface box inside the cupboard. The earth terminal is the one you have circled above - both the earth from your immersion heater flex and the supply, need to be connected to that.
Me - I would be mounting it outside the cupboard, in the existing metal box, where it is most useful. Remove the plastic box and the cable through the wall, just take your flex from the immersion heater through the same hole and directly into the metal box.
C
Captain Nemesis
Not if its a spur?
I won't argue with that statement, per se, but, in reality, it will only be a 'fire risk' if/when the CU/meter or something associated catches on fire, in which case one presumably would have a problem even with a tidy./empty cupboard - at least, that's what Mr LFB seems to believe, because I haven't seen or heard any suggestion that domestic CUs only have to be 'non-combustible' if they are in cluttered cupboards
Kind Regards, John
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
- Status
Sponsored Links
