Texecom Premier 24

[Northbeach]

Hi.

I've just purchased a Texecom Premier 24 burglar alarm after a good trawl through these boards and on the recommendation of a sparky mate (who unfortunately lives 60 odd miles away...and I've picked his brains far too much of late!).
This will be the first alarm we, as a family, have owned during the past 15 years (we moved into this current house just over a year ago - it had an alarm installed, but was faulty and at least a couple of decades old).

I unpacked this at the weekend and had a good look at the guides and components. Bit daunted if I'm honest, but after a fair bit of homework, I feel a little better about installing it now (I've actually sunk the remote keypad into the brick wall and have started setting the cable runs in (easier as the ceilings are currently down anyway) albeit I still have a few queries!

If any of the following looks as if I've fallen off the path a little, I'd be most grateful if somebody can provide a little advice and guidance:

Ok - typical 1940's semi-detached property. Hallway, kitchen (with back door) and two reception rooms. I plan to place a door contact only in the hallway (although there is also a window in there, it's a non opening one).
I'll place a PIR in the kitchen, one in the living room and one in the dining room (although I could replace the PIR in the kitchen with a door contact...or both?)

The remote keypad is in the hallway, as is the control panel, although that will be behind/in a cloak cupboard. The control panel will be underneath the consumer unit (I literally have nowhere else to place it) so will take it directly from a 3amp MCB via 1 or 1.5mm T&E (nothing else on the circuit). I did intend to place a 3amp unswitched FCU on that circuit, but can't really see any need to now - feel free to disagree.

Wiring - I'm probably going to go down the dual end of line route after reading some of the comments on these threads (seems to be more secure). Fortunately, it seems that the PIR's I have already have the 4K7 and a 2K2 'resistors' built in - I'd just have to move them to the correct position and slot in.
I'll probably go along with red and black for power and choose a colour scheme for alarm and tamper.

The bellbox is a little interesting:
I'm assuming that the end of line method can't be used here? I need 5 wires (2x power, 1 tamper, 1 alarm and one for Strb). Hence, I can't use twisted pairs for alarm and tamper here?

Also, that diagram shows the route for AUX/Fault, but on the actual bellbox there is no connector for this (see pic) - perhaps used on different models?

On the actual panel for the bellbox connections, there is a wire already in the 12v port (I assume for the control panel speaker?) - would I merely place my other power (red) wire alongside this from the bellbox?

So far so good?
I'm also a little unsure which cables go into the zone inputs as there are only two per zone [ZONE 1] [ZONE 2] etc. From a a PIR would I fit one pair of twisted wires (DEOL method) into the left (tamper) and the others (alarm) into the right - and then power (red and black) 12v and 0 into both the left and right (no idea which way round)? I read a post on this forum mentioning a 'COM' connection, but I can't locate that anywhere on the panel?

The keypad seems fairly straight forward (linking + - T & R to the corresponding ports on the panel). There is also a Zone 1 and Zone 2 (four ports each split into 2 Alarm and 2 Tamper connections). Not quite sure what these are yet - linking to another keypad? If that's the case, I might drop another 6 core cable in there and send it to our bedroom, just in case we decide on another keypad in the bedroom - sound ok?!

I've actually got the manual online, so I'll have a good read of that later this evening, but I just wanted to see if I'm heading in the right direction.

I've also purchased a pair of Texecom Exodus 12v Optical & heat multisensors (OH/4W). I'm guessing (again!) that I connect each one to a separate zone on the panel, but struggling a little on the connection to the detector itself. I'm considering wiring 12v and 0 via red and black again, then (for example) green and blue to A and B relay. The other option (and extra wire) is for latch input of which I know little about at the moment - is it preferable to use the latch option?

Of course, once I've wired up correctly, I'll still have to go through the programming route, but I can cross that bridge when I get to it. Is it essential to link up (via Wintex?) to a computer, or is that for advanced fault finding et al? I'd also consider connecting to a GSM dialler/controller in the future - worth placing a CAT cable in there for the modem (I'm wiring the house up with CAT6 anyway)?

Many thanks - apologies if this is a little long/exhausting!

 

[pcaouolte]

Wow! Mega post.

Wiring: If you are going Dual EOL (good idea) then follow the wiring diagram at the bottom left of your first picture. One wire goes from the right hand tamper connection on the PIR to one of the Z1 terminals on the panel (it doesn't matter which one). Another wire goes from the left hand alarm connection on the PIR to the other Z1 terminal on the panel.
For the power run the red wire from +12V on the pir to +Aux 12V on the panel and the black wire from -12V on the PIR to - Aux 12V on the panel.
Thats it, just 4 wires for each PIR.

You keep talking about pairs of twisted wires, you dont need to twist any wires together for PIRs, you just need one wire per terminal as detailed above.

Repeat for the next zone using the Z2 terminals in the panel and the same Aux power terminals as used above (you end up with lots of red wires in +Aux 12v and lots of black wires in -Aux 12v).

Check the instructions supplied with each PIR as the terminals that you use can vary.

For your bellbox there are 5 terminals with S D C B A above them and in the panel on the bottom left of the circuit board are 5 terminals also labelled S D C B A. Just wire S to S, D to D, C to C, B to B and A to A. Any colour scheme you like.

Yes, your +12v wire to the bell will go alongside the existing +12v wire to the speaker in the same terminal.

The zone connections in the keypads allow you to wire two PIR's to each keypad if you want to (although you are still limited to 24 zones total).

If you want another keypad in the bedroom it just gets wired to the + - T R connections in the panel or in the existing keypad (whichever is easiest to get the wire to).

I'll leave the smokes to someone else as I don't use them.

Wintex makes programming much easier but is not essential.

Yes, bung some CAT 6 in whilst you are passing!

 

[Northbeach]

Yup...sorry about the length...I didn't want to miss anything out, but on the flip side, I'm terrible about about being concise without an all seeing eye editor...

Wiring: If you are going Dual EOL (good idea) then follow the wiring diagram at the bottom left of your first picture. One wire goes from the right hand tamper connection on the PIR to one of the Z1 terminals on the panel (it doesn't matter which one). Another wire goes from the left hand alarm connection on the PIR to the other Z1 terminal on the panel.
For the power run the red wire from +12V on the pir to +Aux 12V on the panel and the black wire from -12V on the PIR to - Aux 12V on the panel.
Thats it, just 4 wires for each PIR.

You keep talking about pairs of twisted wires, you dont need to twist any wires together for PIRs, you just need one wire per terminal as detailed above.

Fantastic - yes that bottom diagram was the one I was going to use. I may have misread (and co joined) a couple of past posts on the subject. I was under the impression that I would 'double up' two wires each for the alarm and tamper when using the duel end of line method (mixing up with doubling up non used wires for power purposes). That makes complete sense now.

What I failed to mention was wiring for door contacts and if you could use the End of Line method there too? There isn't the built in resistors in the contacts I have (though perhaps they are available) so I'd have to figure out where to place the resistor (2k2?).

Repeat for the next zone using the Z2 terminals in the panel and the same Aux power terminals as used above (you end up with lots of red wires in +Aux 12v and lots of black wires in -Aux 12v).

Ahhh...I was wondering how I would fit a load of wires into one slot (one each for + -)...and in fact I still am! Isn't there a choc block I could use, or is that common place anyway?
As it stand, I'll only be using 6 zones - 1 x door contact, 3 x PIR's and 2 x smoke/fire detectors, so not a huge amount of cabling.

The zone connections in the keypads allow you to wire two PIR's to each keypad if you want to (although you are still limited to 24 zones total).

Not quite sure why I'd be wiring the PIR's directly to the keypad (rather than the panel) unless this is the zone expansion? If we extend the house in the future we'll probably need a few more zones pencilling in, but I can't imagine I'd need more than 24!

Keypad - bedroom - brilliant....probably wire from the panel as 'slightly' closer but nothing in it.
Ok - will plant another Cat cable whilst routing the other lot.

Glad Wintex isn't necessary - I'll probably try that at a later date, but hopefully set it up via the keypad in the meantime.

Many thanks - seems to falling into place now. Just need to get my head around the smoke detector wiring (the latch option) and I'm almost there.

Cheers!

 

[pcaouolte]

You can buy door contacts with built in resistors or fit the resistors that come with the panel to a normal door contact. You need two resistors in the contact, a 4k7 across the reed switch and a 2k2 for the tamper so it all gets a bit crowded and fiddly. There's a picture here. (5th post down, Surface contact with shunt and End of Line resistors although the resistors shown are not the right colours or values for your panel).

If you've only got 5 powered zones the + and - wires will fit in the aux power terminals, twist the bare ends together and push them all in. With more zones then yes you can use a chock block and just run a single wire from the chock block to each terminal on the board. Door contacts don't need power.

Keypad zones are for expansion, you get two free zones with each keypad so may as well use them if you need them, in your case you don't need them.

I might have undersold Wintex a bit. It is a lot easier to program with wintex than it is with the keypad but you need an extra cable (PC-Com or USB-Com £20 ish) to use Wintex.

If no-one else comes back on the smokes I'll dig out the manuals later and sort them out for you.

Paul

 

[pcaouolte]

Smokes:

Connect terminal A to one of the Zone terminals in the panel.
Connect terminal B to the other side of the same Zone in the panel.
Leave terminal C disconnected.
Connect terminal D to Aux -12v in the panel
Connect terminal E to Aux +12v in the panel
Terminal F can be left disconnected if you want the detector to reset when the smoke has gone.

Program the zone wiring for this zone as "normally closed".

Obviously its important to test these detectors when wired up and to make sure that you have loud internal sounders where they can be heard in bedrooms when you are asleep. Don't rely on the little speaker in the keypads to wake you if your house is on fire!

As I said I have never used these smoke detectors so test them thoroughly and if someone else with more knowledge comes along follow their advice in preference to mine!

 

[Swalesecurity]

Some really good advice there I will leave you guys too it your in really good hands.
And a decent post as well. Fantastic post if only more people could post like this.

 

[Northbeach]

You can buy door contacts with built in resistors or fit the resistors that come with the panel to a normal door contact. You need two resistors in the contact, a 4k7 across the reed switch and a 2k2 for the tamper so it all gets a bit crowded and fiddly. There's a picture here. (5th post down, Surface contact with shunt and End of Line resistors although the resistors shown are not the right colours or values for your panel).

Thanks for that - and the linkie too - makes sense. I do have a load of resistors that came with the panel (and PIR's as it happens)...it's been a while since I last looked at resistors so I'm hoping I can determine the values on the provided ones!
I've never wired up a door contact before - the five terminals on the one's I have are are follows (differs slightly from Breezers image):

silver screw, brass screw, brass screw - blank - brass screw, silver screw:

Two for alarm, the other three for looping other detectors?

The contacts just came in a plastic bag - no documentation, so I'm at a bit of a loss where the connections (including the resistors) are made?

I found this diagram, but I'm not quite sure what they've done here:

Does look like a tight squeeze in there doesn't it? And do you tend to solder them in, or screw down as with the wires?

If you've only got 5 powered zones the + and - wires will fit in the aux power terminals, twist the bare ends together and push them all in. With more zones then yes you can use a chock block and just run a single wire from the chock block to each terminal on the board. Door contacts don't need power.

Excellent - thanks.

Keypad zones are for expansion, you get two free zones with each keypad so may as well use them if you need them, in your case you don't need them.

Understood - I may need expansion in the future, but that's some time off.

I might have undersold Wintex a bit. It is a lot easier to program with wintex than it is with the keypad but you need an extra cable (PC-Com or USB-Com £20 ish) to use Wintex.
Paul

Ok - direct cable (lengthy I presume!) from panel into laptop (via Wintex). I'll have a look for a cable somewhere online - the panel does provide the s/w via CD, so worth getting into once all is settled.

Many thanks again. Just a bit of a niggle with the door contact wiring, but almost there

 

[Northbeach]

Smokes:

Connect terminal A to one of the Zone terminals in the panel.
Connect terminal B to the other side of the same Zone in the panel.
Leave terminal C disconnected.
Connect terminal D to Aux -12v in the panel
Connect terminal E to Aux +12v in the panel
Terminal F can be left disconnected if you want the detector to reset when the smoke has gone.

Program the zone wiring for this zone as "normally closed".

Obviously its important to test these detectors when wired up and to make sure that you have loud internal sounders where they can be heard in bedrooms when you are asleep. Don't rely on the little speaker in the keypads to wake you if your house is on fire!

As I said I have never used these smoke detectors so test them thoroughly and if someone else with more knowledge comes along follow their advice in preference to mine!

Aye, I'll give them a good test once set up. They seem to get favourable reviews, so I'll see how I get on with them. I have a couple of (cheapish) battery powered models...they're blinking loud but get a little 'frisky' if I'm cooking anything which gives off a little smoke (usually from the griddle or anything 'flambeed'!)

I wasn't sure whether to connect the F (latch input) but if it's preferable to have them reset once the smoke/fire has subdued (hopefully just my ambitious cooking) I'll leave it out. If I were to reconsider that, would I then connect F (latch input) into the Aux +12v on the panel?

Huge thanks for this help. I'm sure the programming/fault finding will be fun, but hopefully if I wire up correctly, I shouldn't see many problems.

Cheers.

EDIT: Just to add, it looks like given I'm placing the two fire dectectors on seperate zones it's better to wire them as non latch (if one of the latches open, they will not signal any further alarms until the panel has been fully reset).

 

[Northbeach]

Some really good advice there I will leave you guys too it your in really good hands.
And a decent post as well. Fantastic post if only more people could post like this.

I think they're might be a thin red line between posting too little and posting too much

Cheers!

 

[pcaouolte]

Resistors: The ones with 3 red bands are 2k2. The ones with yellow, purple, red bands are 4k7. Or simply measure the resistance with a multimeter. If you haven't got a multimeter then get one and learn to use it, you will need it for fault finding on this installation.

Door contacts:
Your diagram is for wiring without resistors.
To use the resistors twist one leg of each resistor together and trap that twisted pair under one of the silver screws. The other end of the 4k7 resistor goes under the other silver screw together with one wire which goes back to the panel. The other end of the 2k2 resistor goes under any brass screw together with the other wire that goes back to the panel. Push the resistors so that they lie flat in the contact without letting the resistor legs touch any of the other screws. No soldering needed. The other end of the wires go into the two terminals for one zone in the panel. That's it, just two wires needed for the door contact, no power.

The cable for wintex is about 2 metres long. Long enough to have the laptop on a chair or box near the panel.

 

[pcaouolte]

Smokes: If using the latch input you need to connect it to an output on the panel which can provide +12v. One of the 8 Digicom outputs on the top edge of the board will be fine. Program that output as "Area - 32 Detector reset" and select the Inverted attribute. This will keep the alarm going until you reset it at the keypad.

Don't connect the latch input to the +12v aux or you wont be able to reset it without removing all power (mains & battery) from the panel.

What internal sounder(s) are you planning to use to give the fire alarm sounds?

 

[Northbeach]

Resistors: Excellent - thanks. Aye, I have a multi-meter - usually only employed for testing live...I'll dust if off and ready it for it's next line of work
I'll test wire (with resistors) a contact up and post a pic up. I'm sure I'll suss it now you've advised the correct procedure. Does look a bit of a squeeze in there however!
Seems straightforward now.

Latch on the smoke detector. Thanks - pretty sure I'm going to wire up as non latch after reading up on the matter, but cheers for letting us know the method if latching.

Internal sounder - next port of call really. I'd hazard a guess the control panel won't be adequate (especially as the control panel will be [eventually] inside a cloak cupboard in the hall. Can't quite work out whether the exodus oh/4w have their own sounders?

So, was looking at something like this:

16 ohm 12v alarm Extension Speaker

http://www.alertelectrical.com/prod/1538/16-ohm-extension-speaker#reviews

(not sure it I can post shops links like above - apologies if not)

Not particularly attractive!

Or this:

Pyronix Twin Alert Internal Speaker Sounder

http://www.cts-direct.net/intruder-...rt-internal-speaker-sounder-twinalert-pyronix

I'll read up on them both and see which is more appropriate (that last one looks like it's a ceiling mount?).
I'll possibly require an internal sounder for the exit/entry if the panel is hidden away in that cupboard - hoping the sounder I choose can be linked to both sounder for exit/entry and the smoke detectors.

Many thanks again!

 

[pcaouolte]

I would go for the Pyronix Twin Alert, it can be used as a speaker for entry/exit/chime/warning tones and/or a very loud internal sounder for fire & intruder alarm sounds. Can be wall or ceiling mounted, in a corner or on a flat surface. Very versatile and doesn't draw too much current.

The keypad internal speaker might be loud enough for entry/exit tones if mounted near the final exit door.

The panel internal speaker is probably redundant if you are mounting it in a cupboard, not much point in hiding the panel and then having a speaker announce it's position!

You can choose which sounds come from which devices when programming.

 

[Northbeach]

Thanks pcaouolte.

I'll take a look at the Pyronix (not much in them cost wise)...just wondering if it would be really loud! Hoping it's not as sensitive to my cooking as the standard ones I have

Now fairly certain that the exodus OH/4W detectors do not have internal sounders so I will indeed require an external sounder. The keypad has a sounder also (for entry/exit) so probably not necessary to connect for this purpose, just for the fire detectors perhaps.

Pretty sure I'm good to go now - if I've missed anything I'll drop it back on this thread, but will post update pics (getting my fingers in dexterity training for those door contacts!)
I did read a few things last night re door contacts and setting them up in a 'knocking' situation which I'd overlooked. As an example, we go away for the week/weekend and the letter box is used or the door is knocked which may set off the alarm - I assume this can be adjusted during set up.
Also, I have a UPVC porch on the back of the kitchen (which leads onto the back garden - wondering whether to place a contact on the UPVC door, the back door to the kitchen (which opens up into the back porch) or just use a PIR in the kitchen instead. Same with french doors in the dining room - place contact on them or use a PIR for that room...I'm guessing one of each in a room is a no no?

Can't thank you enough...I owe you a pint or two [/i]

 

[pcaouolte]

The pyronix is 100dBA in alarm mode, your outside sounder is 109dBA. The pyronix should be loud enough to wake you if it's on the landing outside the bedroom and offer some deterent to an intruder. In speaker mode you can set the volume to suit yourself.

The OH/4W detectors do not have internal sounders.

You may be confusing door contacts with vibration detectors. A door contact activates when the magnet is moved away from it, it is not sensitive to vibration, someone knocking on your door won't set it off.

A vibration detector will detect someone kicking the panel out of the middle of a door. This would not be detected by a contact if the frame and the edges of the door remained intact. Look at the Texecom Impaq detectors for examples of this type. These are useful on back doors with plastic/glass centre panels that can be kicked out but they can be activated by people knocking on the door or passing traffic if used on a front door. Sensitivity is adjustable. Some Impaq units incorporate vibration detection and magnetic contact in the same device.

I would put magnetic contacts on all external doors (with or without vibration detection) as this alerts you if a door is open when you set the alarm. You can also then use the chime function to let you know that a door has been opened when you are at home with the alarm not set (casual thief walking in/children walking out).

I put PIRs in most downstairs rooms, certainly rooms containing anything valuable. You can (and often do) have door contacts and PIR's in the same room. The more detection the better. It's all about balancing cost and difficulty of installation against risk of theft. Think about where a thief might enter and what he might want (electronics, cash, keys, jewellery, tools) and try to position devices to detect attempted/actual entry as early as possible.