No, I can't claim credit for that panel, its just a picture I found quickly to demonstrate the point.
Have fun.
Have fun.
Texecom Premier 24
- Thread starter Northbeach
- Start date
Sponsored Links
Quick pic...and that's probably it for a while I'll be fitting this around other stuff so might take some time to fully install. I suspect I'll get one or two headaches when it's time to program, but at least the install (thankfully) should go to plan now.
Had one or two practice runs with the cabling, so fairly up to speed now (I'll take it back about that wire stripper - worth every single penny. Even this dainty six core is stripped without damaging the thin cores under the insulation on each core). Used the trusty dynamo for labelling too....
Many thanks again - you've made all this a heck of a lot easier...this should be the definitive Texecom Premier 24 how to guide now
I'll be fitting this around other stuff so might take some time to fully install. I suspect I'll get one or two headaches when it's time to program, but at least the install (thankfully) should go to plan now.Had one or two practice runs with the cabling, so fairly up to speed now (I'll take it back about that wire stripper - worth every single penny. Even this dainty six core is stripped without damaging the thin cores under the insulation on each core). Used the trusty dynamo for labelling too....
Many thanks again - you've made all this a heck of a lot easier...this should be the definitive Texecom Premier 24 how to guide now
Looking good
Remember to link the Aux/Fault terminals together with a short length of wire as you wont be using them.
If you intend to test it without connecting the external sounder (avoids annoying the neighbours) then also link Bell terminal C (Tamp) to D (0V) with another short length of wire to disable the tamper circuit for the sounder. Remove this link when connecting the sounder.
Remember that your electrician has to get a mains cable through one of those holes at the back and into the terminal block. Not so easy with lots of zone wiring in the way.
Remember to link the Aux/Fault terminals together with a short length of wire as you wont be using them.
If you intend to test it without connecting the external sounder (avoids annoying the neighbours) then also link Bell terminal C (Tamp) to D (0V) with another short length of wire to disable the tamper circuit for the sounder. Remove this link when connecting the sounder.
Remember that your electrician has to get a mains cable through one of those holes at the back and into the terminal block. Not so easy with lots of zone wiring in the way.
I didn't pick up on the Aux/Fault connection (is this used in general to monitor power supplies?). So, literally use a cut off single wire from the six core and link these two contacts together? Would it regisiter as a fault//tamper if these two were not connected?
Good advice on the sounder - I'll definitely be doing that. We're relatively new to the area, so still treading ever so politely
I've already placed a run of 1.5mm T & E down the back (entering the panel snugly behind the mains connection in the panel - you can see it on the pic below) - thankfully the panel was designed to protrude slightly giving me a little room for the cables. Part of me wishes I'd paid a bit more for metal Premier 48 panel, but that may have been surplus in all fairness.
This ok?:
Cheers!
Good advice on the sounder - I'll definitely be doing that. We're relatively new to the area, so still treading ever so politely
I've already placed a run of 1.5mm T & E down the back (entering the panel snugly behind the mains connection in the panel - you can see it on the pic below) - thankfully the panel was designed to protrude slightly giving me a little room for the cables. Part of me wishes I'd paid a bit more for metal Premier 48 panel, but that may have been surplus in all fairness.
This ok?:
Cheers!
Sponsored Links
The Aux/Fault connection is used to monitor tampers if you are not using resistors in PIRs/Contacts. What you have done is correct. Yes, you get a tamper fault if these are not connected.
Mains cable looks ok. Is it buried in the fabric of the building or surface mounted? If surface mounted between the Fused Connection Unit and the panel you should use flex rather than twin & earth. Keep the cable nice and long so that the electrician can trim & route it as he likes, if its surface mounted it should be fixed to that plastic loop on the right of your photo with a cable tie to provide strain relief.
The mains cable usually runs behind the zone cables as you remove zone cables (for testing) more often than mains cables.
When you wire up your PIRs drill a cable entry hole in the back of the PIR the same size as your cable, fix a cable tie around the cable just inside the PIR to prevent the cable being pulled out and seal around the cable where it comes through the hole with silicone sealant. Small insects/spiders inside PIRs cause false alarms.
Mains cable looks ok. Is it buried in the fabric of the building or surface mounted? If surface mounted between the Fused Connection Unit and the panel you should use flex rather than twin & earth. Keep the cable nice and long so that the electrician can trim & route it as he likes, if its surface mounted it should be fixed to that plastic loop on the right of your photo with a cable tie to provide strain relief.
The mains cable usually runs behind the zone cables as you remove zone cables (for testing) more often than mains cables.
When you wire up your PIRs drill a cable entry hole in the back of the PIR the same size as your cable, fix a cable tie around the cable just inside the PIR to prevent the cable being pulled out and seal around the cable where it comes through the hole with silicone sealant. Small insects/spiders inside PIRs cause false alarms.
The panel is fixed below the consumer unit (by around 12 inches) and will be boxed off/placed in cabinet above a cloak cupboard. The cable will more than likely flush with the wall then plastered over - fairly certain it will be done this way. Hadn't considered flex to be fair, but then again it's most likely going straight into the CU via a 3amp MCB (and behind plaster) - nothing else will be on that circuit...I did actually pick up a 3am unswitched FCU (via spare 6 amp MCB).
From that I've been told, as there is nothing else on that circuit and the panel can be isolated via the CU (an arms reach away), I can go direct into a 3amp MCB. Of course, using flex might make things a little easier inside the panel (twin and earth isn't really 'flexable' in confined spaces) so I could go that route and utilise the FCU (which I already have).
Thoughts?
Again - good advice on the PIRs - I've read the documentation on the PIR's (these particular ones have sections for cable I can tap through in several locations) and was indeed going to use silicone...but never put it down to insects & spiders entering!
Many thanks.
From that I've been told, as there is nothing else on that circuit and the panel can be isolated via the CU (an arms reach away), I can go direct into a 3amp MCB. Of course, using flex might make things a little easier inside the panel (twin and earth isn't really 'flexable' in confined spaces) so I could go that route and utilise the FCU (which I already have).
Thoughts?
Again - good advice on the PIRs - I've read the documentation on the PIR's (these particular ones have sections for cable I can tap through in several locations) and was indeed going to use silicone...but never put it down to insects & spiders entering!
Many thanks.
Gents, great conversation regarding the install...so far has helped me hugely with my Texecom 24 install!!
Got my panel in, bell box, one keypad (one to go) and two PIRs (6 and an 8XE to go), I've got mostly for Dual Tech grade 3 but one duat tech 360 degree one for the hall as there were a lot of nooks and crannys that would have hid a corner mount sensor.
Powered up breifly the other night but realised after reading this that i'd wired the PIR's wrong! Thank you for putting me right!
The Tex manuals are OK, but certainly not perfect or fool proof!
Is the Comm 2400 a bit of a white elephant now (I have the GSM dialer as well, to be sure!)
If I may ask one qquestion...with the advice of the tamper being wired to 0v - is this needed for each PIR or just on the panel if testing with the bell box disconnected??
Cheers,
Virgil
More wiring and playing tonight!!
Got my panel in, bell box, one keypad (one to go) and two PIRs (6 and an 8XE to go), I've got mostly for Dual Tech grade 3 but one duat tech 360 degree one for the hall as there were a lot of nooks and crannys that would have hid a corner mount sensor.
Powered up breifly the other night but realised after reading this that i'd wired the PIR's wrong! Thank you for putting me right!
The Tex manuals are OK, but certainly not perfect or fool proof!
Is the Comm 2400 a bit of a white elephant now (I have the GSM dialer as well, to be sure!)
If I may ask one qquestion...with the advice of the tamper being wired to 0v - is this needed for each PIR or just on the panel if testing with the bell box disconnected??
Cheers,
Virgil
More wiring and playing tonight!!
3A MCB direct to the panel in twin & earth sounds ok to me. I'm not an electrician so follow your electrician's advice. You don't move the mains cable once its connected in the panel so it doesn't need to be flexible.
Cheers pcaouolte. Consulting the Texecom manual (as different manufacturers suggest different options) it's perhaps slightly vague:
FCU being an example rather than a rule, and the nearby (at arms length in this case) MCB is indeed a 'readily accessible disconnection device'. It's a 17 way CU so I have a few spare. Slight concern as it's dual RCD (no way to place on non RCD MCB) but I guess with a back up battery, I'm ok there too.
Many thanks.
The Com 2400 is useful to alarm companies who can use it for Remote Upload/Download, remote servicing & connection to monitoring centres. It can send text messages over the land line but this system is becoming congested & less reliable at peak times.
If testing with the bell box disconnected then link The bell tamper (C) to 0V (D) inside the panel (bottom left corner of the circuit board).
Battery backup will keep it going for a few hours (the length of time depends on the load). If you get an auto dialler/Com GSM/Com IP connected you can get it to signal mains failure by phone/text/email to let you know that the RCD has tripped and the beer fridge is also without power.
Few hours!!
The battery, by the way, is a 3.4ah 12v...
Will definitely look into the Com IP - makes sense as most of the house will have ethernet points in each nook and cranny...I'm hoping the next gen fridges can indeed 'self order' via the internet when stocks of fine ale is running low I probably owe you a few of those anyway
Sorry...one more thing (for now!). Although I've routed/am routing the six core alarm cable at right angles to mains and at least 150mm when on straight runs, it's inevitable due to the proximity of the CU and panel (underneath one another) that the cables are running past the CU - might this be a problem? It's only a short distance...possible (if necessary) to place a shield for this run, or will the CU case provide any interference protection??
Cheers.
The battery, by the way, is a 3.4ah 12v...
Will definitely look into the Com IP - makes sense as most of the house will have ethernet points in each nook and cranny...I'm hoping the next gen fridges can indeed 'self order' via the internet when stocks of fine ale is running low
I probably owe you a few of those anyway Sorry...one more thing (for now!). Although I've routed/am routing the six core alarm cable at right angles to mains and at least 150mm when on straight runs, it's inevitable due to the proximity of the CU and panel (underneath one another) that the cables are running past the CU - might this be a problem? It's only a short distance...possible (if necessary) to place a shield for this run, or will the CU case provide any interference protection??
Cheers.
"Few hours!!
The battery, by the way, is a 3.4ah 12v...
" Why are you shocked?Perhaps because you are using a wrong sized battery for the 24, your battery choices, as recommended in the manual are :-
1x 7Ah 2x 7Ah or 1x 17Ah, where did you get the idea that a 3.4Ah is fit for purpose?
I wouldn't worry about it. The Texecom is not badly affected by Induced AC and filters are available (the ACT 1313) at reasonable cost which fit inside the panel if you do have a problem.
As Europlex has said above you have not got the correct size battery.
The battery is the one supplied with the Premier 24 kit from alert electrical, but the manual does indeed recommend the one's you mentioned. I didn't really pay much attention to the 'ah' in battery terminology...but it's quite obvious now!
I'll see if I can return it and upgrade it, otherwise I'll shop around for the 17ah version.
Many thanks.
EDIT: The 3ah battery I've got mentions 20 hours, but not sure how they relates in the real world. I'll speak to them some time today - they're a good company customer service wise.
I'll see if I can return it and upgrade it, otherwise I'll shop around for the 17ah version.
Many thanks.
EDIT: The 3ah battery I've got mentions 20 hours, but not sure how they relates in the real world. I'll speak to them some time today - they're a good company customer service wise.
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
