Texecom Premier 24

[Northbeach]

Here's the pic of the other door (back door) contact.

The front silver screw (a little out of focus) holds both the 2k2 and 4k7 resistor.
The 4k7 then goes to the other silver screw (congaing the blue wire) whilst the other end of the 2k2 resistor goes to one of the brass screws (containing the yellow wire).

Back Door Contact:

Front Door Contact (for comparison):

 

[Northbeach]

Update:

Speaking with secureiam, I took the door contact back to 'basics' (no resistors).
Connected up A and T wire to both silver reed switch screws (right terminology?) - received 000k on closed and >65k on open.

Next connected up the 4k7 resistor to one of the silver screws. Received 000k on closed 4k7 on open.
Finally connected the 2k2 up to the silver screw containing the 4k7 resistor and moved the wire in there to the brass screw along with the other end of the 2k2.

Looks like it's been successful now!
I did used a different brass screw this time...sure it didn't make any difference 'connection' wise, but in enabled me to get the wires and resistors in the contact a lot neater. Possible my issues were caused by rogue strands of wires nudging against either a resistor leg or one of the screws...?

It's much tidier in there now, but then again a lot of the time I was working on this in the evening with little light and not enough looped six core (my fault).

As a slight aside, if it one day got to the point where the cable ends broke and I simply didn't have enough left to connect to the contact, is there anything you could use to extend with a bit of extra six core - akin to extending mains/light cable with crimping?

Ok - just the bellbox to reconnect now. This was wired up last year, but from advice on here, it looks like I have to switch a couple of jumpers over (felt sure I did this last year?)
Is there also a way to disconnect the bellbox from the panel/Wintex programming in the future (it's hard for me to nip up to the bellbox as I, currently, have no ladders)?
In saying that, I should hopefully be borrowing a pair either today or over the next week.

Many thanks everyone!!

 

[secureiam]

glad its sorted not sure what you mean by disconnect the bell via wintex but you can turn off the outputs area options bell and strobe no areas assigned.

if the bell has no 12V to it then make sure the battery jumper is off and you turn off the bell tamper in global options monitor hard ware.

 

[Northbeach]

glad its sorted not sure what you mean by disconnect the bell via wintex but you can turn off the outputs area options bell and strobe no areas assigned.

if the bell has no 12V to it then make sure the battery jumper is off and you turn off the bell tamper in global options monitor hard ware.

Thanks secureiam.
I placed the bellbox (wired up) on the exterior wall last year...honestly can't remember if I left the battery jumper off...possibly it's never flashed or sounded during any stages of testing, but then again I took out the bell and 12V from the panel (originally looped in, but then I added the Pyronix).

I'll turn the system off before I look in the bellbox anyway.

Yes - I meant turning the outputs area off (bell/tamper).
Along the same lines as turning the panel tamper off whilst I was testing/wiring.
I'll have a look in Wintex later and see if I can find the options.

Thanks again.

 

[Northbeach]

Preumse these are the two sections of wintex which point you towards turning off the aforementioned options :

Global Systems (monitor bell tamper unticked):

Area options (bell & strobe output - areas A and B blanked):

I guess I'll leave this off until the bellbox is connected up on the panel and, if I haven't already done this, battery jumper back on. Is this the SCM mode mentioned in the manual.

There's also a low current mode which I've spotted in the manual...I'll have a quick read of that.

Cheers.

 

[secureiam]

Yes with the wintex options, not sure what you daid you done woth bell been out for a few bevys so i will have anotherlook tomorrow.

 

[mesoyi]

There's also a low current mode which I've spotted in the manual...I'll have a quick read of that.

Cheers.

Is this the Wintex manual you are referring to and where did you get it?

 

[secureiam]

3 jumpers on an ody hardwired bells.

Battery on/off (This need to be on )
SAB/SCB (SAB loudest option uses most current consumption, SCB lose about 6db sound)
LC/ Normal (Low current, loos aprox 2 db sound)

The tables are in the bell box manual explaining current consumption not sure if it explains about the volume, 2db you probably wont notice 6db you may notice.

In general terms SAB first bell, second bell SAB LC should be adequate. however you may be able to use both on SAB depending on the total current draw of the system in alarm.

 

[Northbeach]

There's also a low current mode which I've spotted in the manual...I'll have a quick read of that.

Cheers.

Is this the Wintex manual you are referring to and where did you get it?

Hi - I was referring to the Texecom Odyssey 3 manual.
However, the Wintex manual is included as a PDF on the Wintex CD.
Possible this could be obtained online also.

Cheers.

 

[Northbeach]

3 jumpers on an ody hardwired bells.

Battery on/off (This need to be on )
SAB/SCB (SAB loudest option uses most current consumption, SCB lose about 6db sound)
LC/ Normal (Low current, loos aprox 2 db sound)

The tables are in the bell box manual explaining current consumption not sure if it explains about the volume, 2db you probably wont notice 6db you may notice.

In general terms SAB first bell, second bell SAB LC should be adequate. however you may be able to use both on SAB depending on the total current draw of the system in alarm.

I only have one 'Live' bellbox (the one at the rear is dummy).
So, is there actually three options? SAB/SCB and LC...the manual (at least the way I read it) wasn't entirely clear.
Given I've only one 'bellbox' would the SAB be advisable, or even LC if it only loses 2db? It's not like we're in the middle of the countryside with no neighbours for miles...!

Many thanks.

 

[secureiam]

if theres only one bell you dont need to worry.

1. Batt on (not at default so will need changing).
2. SAB (should be at default)
3. Normal (not LC and should be this at default)

the last two options are to save power, and is only really needed if you have more than one hardwired bell connected to the panels bell terminals.

 

[Northbeach]

if theres only one bell you dont need to worry.

1. Batt on (not at default so will need changing).
2. SAB (should be at default)
3. Normal (not LC and should be this at default)

the last two options are to save power, and is only really needed if you have more than one hardwired bell connected to the panels bell terminals.

Cheers.
Just hope I didn't turn the battery on last year when I installed it (and thus discharging the battery?). Unlikely and the bellbox has never sounded/flashed.

I'll keep it at SAB then, but will note it's current position (when I get up there).

Many thanks secureiam.