Yes resistors in flush contacts are doable.
The 7Ah battery fits in the plastic panel. See the specification at the back of the Installation Manual (page 125 in mine)
There is no mention of a 3Ah battery anywhere in the manual.
Texecom Premier 24
- Thread starter Northbeach
- Start date
Yes resistors in flush contacts are doable.
The 7Ah battery fits in the plastic panel. See the specification at the back of the Installation Manual (page 125 in mine)
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I pur resistors on my flush contact...leave them sticking proud but drill the body hole as deep as you can within reason to give you more space...inch and a half should be plenty...
I'll try and get a photo of mine tonight
I'll try and get a photo of mine tonight
Many thanks Pcaouolte - I've sent them a missive - just hope they agree to waive the return cost back, otherwise my other orders will go elsewhere (and to be fair, they have a very good reputation as a company).
I'll order some flush contacts then.
Virgilns - a pic would be great - cheers.
I'll order some flush contacts then.
Virgilns - a pic would be great - cheers.
Here's the contacts in the door frame and door...the 15 layers of paint are about 30 years old so chipped off quite badly when cutting the face rebate. they are actually mounted flush with the door/frame, though if you had a 5mm gap between the door and frame then you wouldn't have to worry about the sinking the face in, just drill a 19.8mm hole and screw it flush. If you do want to sink them flush (better) then drill a 5.5 or 6mm hole in each corner to give you the round internal corner (well that's the sizes for my contacts anyway)
here's the size of the contact body...my flat bit has seen the grinder a few times to sharpen it so obviously slightly undersize...I recon about 19.80mm by chance
I get a perfect snug fit...
and here's the contact with resistors sicking up...don't go by the colours, just a couple i had around to show them on the contact
hope that helps...obviously much better to mount the contacts on the latch side to signal an open door much earlier, but mine, on the hinge side, signals at about 30 degrees open...you'd have to know it's there and then still struggle to either get anything in the door jam or get in the house without setting the contact off...
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^^ Aye - that helps a lot - thanks for posting.
I did say I'd order a couple of flush contacts, but in fact I can only order one as the front door (unlike the back) is open to the elements so I'll stick with the [brown] usual contacts.
The resistors don't look too untidy there to be honest...I *think* I'll be alright there.
Love that measuring tool btw...one for Santa's stocking I reckon
Cheers.
I did say I'd order a couple of flush contacts, but in fact I can only order one as the front door (unlike the back) is open to the elements so I'll stick with the [brown] usual contacts.
The resistors don't look too untidy there to be honest...I *think* I'll be alright there.
Love that measuring tool btw...one for Santa's stocking I reckon
Cheers.
^^ Aye - that helps a lot - thanks for posting.
I did say I'd order a couple of flush contacts, but in fact I can only order one as the front door (unlike the back) is open to the elements so I'll stick with the [brown] usual contacts.
The resistors don't look too untidy there to be honest...I *think* I'll be alright there.
Love that measuring tool btw...one for Santa's stocking I reckon
Cheers.
A digital vernier...had one from when they were very expensive and specialist gear (from my father) now have a selection ( I've inherited my father's and father in law's tools) and they're cheap as chips now (fine for DIY) and Invaluable!
Does your front door open outward then??
^^ No - it opens inwards - are you thinking that as it opens inwards (and therefore less prone to catching any of the 'less dry' elements) I'll be ok fitting flush sensors? TBH - I'd never seen the flush sensors before, so they were kind of off my radar.
Cheers.
Cheers.
A flush contact on an inwards opening door will be ok.
Mount it near to the top of the door (as dampness tends to be greater at the bottom) on the handle side (not the hinge side). The idea is that the opening edge of door the should not open more than 4" or 10cm without generating an alarm condition.
Mount it near to the top of the door (as dampness tends to be greater at the bottom) on the handle side (not the hinge side). The idea is that the opening edge of door the should not open more than 4" or 10cm without generating an alarm condition.
Cheers - will order and fit those then.
Thanks.
Thanks.
As pcaouolte says...put it on the handle side...the only reason I've put mine oh the hinge side is becasue i needed to get the sensor to the alarm pannel easily. My door opens about 30' or 15" but only allows about 12" of access through the gap with the wall and the radiator is there to hinder access, so only a skeletal crack head or a kylie minogue sized person would possibly be able to squeeze through. and one of those i could live with
Drill the hole in a test peice of wood first to make sure you get a tight fit. If you have a bench grinder, get a cheap flat bit and grind down the edges (evenly both sides) to get the right size hole...
A...what?!
I have a various drill bits...I'll check if I have the right size for the hole required for the flusg fitting, otherwise I'll pick one up. I'll definitely test drill first however.
Yes - will fit on the opening side (both cables have been routed there already, but I'll figure out a nice route through the frame given I'll be using the flush fit ones.
Cheers.
It doesn't need to be a tight fit, two screws hold the contact in place. You want a 20mm drill bit for most flush contacts, these are a lot easier to buy than 19.8mm drill bits.
Don't buy a good bosch one with a screw point as they're designed to cut easily by pulling itself throuogh which means it'll cut deeper than you may want without realising. a new cheap one will be better. or borrow mine and buy your contacts from cts-direct as they'll be guaranteed a perfect fit
^^ I meant a 20mm flat drill bit - not a bench grinder! One day perhaps
Little update. Everything is pretty much wired up now, although (inevitably) I ran out of cable by about 10 metres (grrr). Looks like I'll have to buy a 100m reel again (only a tenner to be fair). Just the bellbox to wire up (and install), the internal sounder (on order) and the hall PIR (dual tech this time).
Half inclined to pick up a small choc block (can you get small ones specific to alarm cable?) as the 12v+ and 0v contacts in the panel are a bit of a squeeze (even with just five wires in). Other than that, it's been fairly straightforward after the help and advice I've received here:
Not as tidy as I would've liked, but I've labelled everything well enough.
Two tools I wouldn't be without was the dynamo labeller (essential for the CAT cabling I'll be doing next) and a decent wire stripper like this (works a treat even on the delicate six core alarm cable)
Will update as and when.
Many thanks!
Little update. Everything is pretty much wired up now, although (inevitably) I ran out of cable by about 10 metres (grrr). Looks like I'll have to buy a 100m reel again (only a tenner to be fair). Just the bellbox to wire up (and install), the internal sounder (on order) and the hall PIR (dual tech this time).
Half inclined to pick up a small choc block (can you get small ones specific to alarm cable?) as the 12v+ and 0v contacts in the panel are a bit of a squeeze (even with just five wires in). Other than that, it's been fairly straightforward after the help and advice I've received here:
Not as tidy as I would've liked, but I've labelled everything well enough.
Two tools I wouldn't be without was the dynamo labeller (essential for the CAT cabling I'll be doing next) and a decent wire stripper like this (works a treat even on the delicate six core alarm cable)
Will update as and when.
Many thanks!
...Just throwing another thought out there, would fitting a door bell into the panel (I'd have to use that spare zone within the entry RKP) be more trouble than it's worth? I'm assuming I wouldn't need either a transformer or speaker (I'd use that pryonix internal sounder) but could just wire up the bell push to a zone and program that appropriately?
I already have a wireless doorbell which more than suffices, but connecting a doorbell push into the premier 24 might be an option (save worrying about changing batteries).
Something like this:
http://www.alertelectrical.com/prod/1427/polished-chrome-bell-push-surface-mount
Cheers.
I already have a wireless doorbell which more than suffices, but connecting a doorbell push into the premier 24 might be an option (save worrying about changing batteries).
Something like this:
http://www.alertelectrical.com/prod/1427/polished-chrome-bell-push-surface-mount
Cheers.
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