Timer on CU (with pictures :)

[Adam_151]

Whats the wirging like in the shed and the conservetory, are those two circuits submains? socket radials etc?

How wide is the space that top grey wylex board is in? (also height please)

I'm favor replacing that board and the one serving the armoureds if possible with a new board with plenty of room and not disturbing the MEM until you can replace that VIR

I'd also rewire the kitchen lights to a way in the new board, last thing you want to do is find you have to re-wire that circuit after you've got the kitchen all tiled!

 

[Adam_151]

Lop a bit off the top of that top meter mounting board and I'm sure you could squeeze a stacked MK board set up in there

 

[DJM]

As I said this is from memory and will look closer when I get back home to the mainland.

1 Armoured goes to another CU in the outhouse, the other I will have to check.

Outhouse is brick and forms one wall of Conservatory. Outhouse contains sauna (look it was there before we moved in, is small and has never been turned on and sounds grander than it is so don't get the impression this is some villa - it's a semi-detatched with pretentions of grandeur) underfloor heating, 2(?) double sockets (one which runs tumble dryer and washing machine -yes I know, but they are rarely on together)

Conservatory has a couple of 13A sockets and a ring of 3A round-pin sockets which run the lights.

I measure the rest tonight.

 

[Deleted member 54734]

I'd have thought the modern meters would have inbuilt tele-switches, but I dunno, I'm sure Roo will know though

You can have a TELEMETER that would do the same job as that setup but normal modern 2rate meters are still used.

I usually use them in the sticks where the signal to switch a telemeter/teleswitch is not strong enough so needs to be switched
with a mechanical time clock.

If the timer died on that installation I'd probably replace the lot with a telemeter as it's less messing about and the time won't drift.

As for that board....
The CUTOUT, METER and TIMECLOCK would all be ours.
Some people would say the Henley block too but I'd class that as the customers.

 

[securespark]

John. I had this out with Wylex the other day. Those older boards with one "way" to the right of the DP iso are 100A. However, the tech guy told me that only that "way" can be loaded in excess of 30/32A. The others should not exceed the lower figure.

 

[JohnD]

I believe you!

My scrap 12-way has a 100A switch but none of those "big" ways. I was surprised to see his 45A cartridge fuse fitted into an ordinary small way semingly so easily.

 

[Adam_151]

John. I had this out with Wylex the other day. Those older boards with one "way" to the right of the DP iso are 100A. However, the tech guy told me that only that "way" can be loaded in excess of 30/32A. The others should not exceed the lower figure.

Did you ask about more modern boards, Simon?

 

[DJM]

measurements as promised. I have annotated a picture to make it easier to explain.

If I can fit a larger CU in the space, and the circuits can be transferred safely (ie they test OK) what are the issuees I face? For example, the cables run to a current CU and are cut to length, but if new CU in a slightly different place means the connections are furthere away, what needs to be done - can the cablesbe extended, or do the initial runs need replacing?

EDIT: Updated picture to make measurements clearer

 

[Adam_151]

Tighter then I thought it looked before!

(Side point: I'm only 20 and boots tell me I do not require specs, but I found those measurements incredably difficult to read... too small)

Thinking about it, if it were me I'd replace the whole lot with a 17w split load board doing whatever remedial work neccessary it'll probably be better in the long run! Guess you'd have to trim a bit off the top of that meter board, which is a bit naughty

You'd obviously have to loose the VIR (sooner is better than later in my opinion!) Upstairs shouldn't be an issue as long as the switch drops are in PVC, downsairs would be trickier, if you can unscrew ceiling roses and (without disturbing it) note how much is VIR and see if you can track down where the run to the CU comes in

Where it is easy to do so, recommend that lengths of cable to the CU are replaced where they wont reach, where not possible, crimp lugs inside the CU or adapable boxes. Those SWAs glanded off into an adaptable box and singles to the new CU

 

[JohnD]

yes, that upper meter board is a problem

It might even be possible to have the meter moved back onto the lower board with the cutout, especially if the timer is no longer required.

Other than moving the upper fixings for that board, and then slicing the top off, it would be possible to mount a backboard, on spacers, partially overlapping the old meter board (I still like mounting boards ) otherwise I can't see how to get a big one in, even a tall narrow double-decker would be 296 wide and 370 high (like http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n228/JohnD_UK/POL_0124-1.jpg

 

[DJM]

sorry about the text size, but in Visio it looked fine, in Photobucket it looked OK, but only when I looked later at the forum did I see it was nigh on unreadable. I updated it, but obviuosly while you were looking at the original.

As I said before, I would like to replace all of it, but just don't think its feasible this year - financially or logistically. Kitchen has reached it's last legs as has the cooker, so need to do something soon there and certainly can't afford both.

If the Wylex was replaced and MEM left, it looks like I could fit a Wylex 9W Split Load CSU (H x W x D: 230 x 290 x 120mm.) in the space without touching the meter board, but I am not sure that helps very much. It's the width that's the issue if the MEM stays and I just cant see how to get round that, except by adding another 3 way moduke between Lage and small grey wylexs to cover Kitchen hob and 2 ovens. The freed up oven radial in the large wylex could then be used for teh shower and that large wylex will have only 1 large load and in the correct slot.

By the way, why is it

a bit naughty

to cut down the meter board?

 

[JohnD]

meter board belongs to the Electricity company.

 

[DJM]

Timer is definitely a big piece of kit, and meter is a bit lost on the top board, but we do use the E7 by dishwaer inbuilt timer, and tumble dryer etc during E7 cheap rate. Therefore timer not entirely obsolete.

The idea of a tall thin unit with space to get MEM moved at a later date is attractive. If it's a bit naughty to cut doem the meter board, is it just as bad to overlap? ANd would that work because it would have to overlap by quite a lot which would give cable routing problems would it not? As the meter board is already 8 cm deep, add another spacer and board plus CU, and it will stick out a fair bit into the cupboard.

If I asked DNO to covert to PME, what is the likely hood I could get them to either re-site meter, or cut down mounting board at the same time?

 

[JohnD]

give it a try. Ask them to fit a 100A DP isolator as well. From what I hear, if all three jobs are on the worksheet, the guy will do it. If not, he won't like you asking him to do it as a favour, because he will be loaded up with work and only allowed ten minutes (or something) per job. And he might not have the skills, tools or parts needed.

I have a feeling I would cut down the upper board, varnish the top edges, and apply dirt and dust to make it look like it'd always been like that

 

[DJM]

(Side point: I'm only 20 and boots tell me I do not require specs, but I found those measurements incredably difficult to read... too small)

Odd isn't it how I see a lot abbout ban the sheds on this forum and use the experts, but some people seem happy to use the equivilent for their eyes. Boots, specsavers etc are "sheds", your local optician is the expert. Not meant ot be a dig, but SWMBO is an optician and whinges about that all the time so just sharing my pain

Thinking about it, if it were me I'd replace the whole lot with a 17w split load board ......<snip>

You'd obviously have to loose the VIR (sooner is better than later in my opinion!) Upstairs shouldn't be an issue as long as the switch drops are in PVC, downsairs would be trickier, if you can unscrew ceiling roses and (without disturbing it) note how much is VIR and see if you can track down where the run to the CU comes in

Upstairs lights may be more of an issue than down actually. The previous owners had a loft conversion and used large chipboard to cover the floor so it is a major job to lift these