Underfloor heating in my orangery...
- Thread starter jurassic86
- Start date
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Sorry fr being ignorant but I really have no idea on how to calculate it.
I was just hoping someone could point me in the right direction.
I was just hoping someone could point me in the right direction.
.I got a figure of 1600w when I use the heat loss calculator
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karn Dean is a brand, but doesn't tell us whether you are use wood, stone or any other material.
Wood for example will have a floor temperature limit, which could throw all the calcs out the window.
As Dan said information or guesswork the choice is yours
Ps, the number of loops should be calculated so they will all be roughly the same length.
Wood for example will have a floor temperature limit, which could throw all the calcs out the window.
As Dan said information or guesswork the choice is yours
Ps, the number of loops should be calculated so they will all be roughly the same length.
Yes it does - Karndean is all vinyl tiles, just in different print patterns
Karndean is like a vinyl tile.
Solid floor with concrete sub base and 100mm king span
One outside wall with double patio doors
Glass lantern roof double glazed.
All glazing is in plastic UPvC
All internal walls are insulated cavity walls
Glass has uvalue of 1.0
No room above or below
Solid floor with concrete sub base and 100mm king span
One outside wall with double patio doors
Glass lantern roof double glazed.
All glazing is in plastic UPvC
All internal walls are insulated cavity walls
Glass has uvalue of 1.0
No room above or below
It would be easier to sketch a rough plan with details and measurements:
External wall type, dimensions, insulated? and to what spec.
Internal wall type, dimensions, insulation as above.
Window dimensions.
Floor, you've given some details.
etc. etc.
James.
External wall type, dimensions, insulated? and to what spec.
Internal wall type, dimensions, insulation as above.
Window dimensions.
Floor, you've given some details.
etc. etc.
James.
Room is 4,8 x 3,6m external measurements.
A before and after plan
Orangery roof
All internal walls are brick cavity filled with cavity wall insulation (rock wool type).
External doors are 1.5m wide 2.5m heigh, UPvC double glazed.
Roof is flat roof insulated with 150mm kingspan
Lantern is 3,8m x 2,6m wide (UPvC double glazed).
External wall is one with double glazed double door which is 2,5m heigh and 3,6m long.
Two internal walls are 4,8m long 2,5m heigh.
Only three walls as it's knocked through from kitchen
More pics...
A before and after plan
Orangery roof
All internal walls are brick cavity filled with cavity wall insulation (rock wool type).
External doors are 1.5m wide 2.5m heigh, UPvC double glazed.
Roof is flat roof insulated with 150mm kingspan
Lantern is 3,8m x 2,6m wide (UPvC double glazed).
External wall is one with double glazed double door which is 2,5m heigh and 3,6m long.
Two internal walls are 4,8m long 2,5m heigh.
Only three walls as it's knocked through from kitchen
More pics...
It must be 25 years since I worked on a job where the guys were not wearing PPE. I hope you've got wee Dom's mobby number handy???
I ain't no structural engineer, but are these joists big enough to take the new roof?? Should there not be some steels in there?? Just a thought.
I ain't no structural engineer, but are these joists big enough to take the new roof?? Should there not be some steels in there?? Just a thought.
Nope they are posi joists and are more than adiquite for the task at hand.
Their is a steel lintel above the opening and all calcs have been done by a structural engineer so I'm ok on that front
Their is a steel lintel above the opening and all calcs have been done by a structural engineer so I'm ok on that front
Orangery does seem to have taken on this meaning, when used in a domestic setting.
- I still think of long stone/brick glass roofed extentions to significant buildings, such as hampton court, often housing citrus plants.
- But it does now seem to be used for almost anything that is a a ground floor extension, with a large number of windows, but of a spec which affords atleast some insulation....
In this case, its appears to be roofing a well enclosed courtyard. I dont know the spec of the roof, but assuming its something like triple glazed evacuated glass or the like it should heat well.
The layout seems open plan enough that if it cannot self-sustain heat wise, the other rooms will contribute. Or just get cold and cost a fortune to heat.
Daniel
Inate drivel, I'm not sure what your job is, but the OP needs to establish the heat loss for his UFH. I can't be arsed doing it, well, not without payment.
Hey guys,
No need I've gone with 150mm centres
Spoke to polyplumb today and they basically told me the closer they are together the more responsive the heat is (I.e the quicker it heats up)
They told me that typically in an orangery they would put at 150mm) and with my room size 100mm is too tight on the bends.
He said with it not being a conservatory I could go with 200mm centres but I would need two loops either way so best to make best use out of the pipe and 150mm is what I've gone with.
No need I've gone with 150mm centres
Spoke to polyplumb today and they basically told me the closer they are together the more responsive the heat is (I.e the quicker it heats up)
They told me that typically in an orangery they would put at 150mm) and with my room size 100mm is too tight on the bends.
He said with it not being a conservatory I could go with 200mm centres but I would need two loops either way so best to make best use out of the pipe and 150mm is what I've gone with.
I would not have done that without exact heat loss figures.
Many seem to be able to manage with 100 mm spacing.
Of course it will heat up faster as there is more heat output! About 150w per sq m.
I hope your choice of spacing works out OK as its a little difficult to change afterwards.
150 mm is the usual spacing in a well insulated house, about 100w per sq m. That would be about 2000w in total. So if your heat requirement is less then that will be OK.
Tony
Many seem to be able to manage with 100 mm spacing.
Of course it will heat up faster as there is more heat output! About 150w per sq m.
I hope your choice of spacing works out OK as its a little difficult to change afterwards.
150 mm is the usual spacing in a well insulated house, about 100w per sq m. That would be about 2000w in total. So if your heat requirement is less then that will be OK.
Tony
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