Viessman or Baxi

get the main 30he with flue , clock and loop for 535 plus vat.like the baxi and the potty , they are easy to work on and fix.parts are as cheap as anyone elses. :D
 
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Not standing up for them, just making the point that they sell a lot of boilers, so failures are more likely to be identified.
 
get the main 30he with flue , clock and loop for 535 plus vat.like the baxi and the potty , they are easy to work on and fix.parts are as cheap as anyone elses. :D

I'd recommend the Baxi Duo-tec
 
Not standing up for them, just making the point that they sell a lot of boilers, so failures are more likely to be identified.

Fair comment baxpoti, wasn't looking for an argument, just making the point that statistics can "prove" or "disprove" anything you want them to. :LOL:
 
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duo-tec is my option once the 105he goes.i dont like testing any new boilers on my jobs.everyone that ive fitted a 105 for have been very happy. ive only ever on mine and other peoples installs had to change five diaphrams , one board , a few thermistors and one diverter.not bad in about four years.
 
Used to love the 105 both e and He but alas that love has gone, due to a list of missing parts, faulty boards, divertors, fans,pressure vessels, a run of 5 boilers all of which the glass cracked on the viewing window during commision and as a bonus direct member and baxi accredited installer getting poor service from heat team, (5 days for an aps).

Good food on ther training days though.

The rep in the end handed over a box of spares which now lives in the van.(but no aps's)
 
Not been on a single training day where you have to pay, that includes baxi, potterton commercial, vaillant domestic/commercial and air con, J&S,Aga/Rayburn and a few more.

If manufacturers want their products installing most will not charge.
 
If you are looking at the Viessmann 100 combi our experience might suggest looking at the Vaillant 8series at the moment.

The replacement 200 series Viessmann promises to be a better boiler but we are still waiting for units ordered in October.
 
With regards the cost of heating a house and whats the cheapest way to run it then the answer has to be "don,t turn it on"

However that wont be a popular idea in weather like this, will it.

As to proof that weather temperature compensation saves on the amount of gas consumed I can only use my common sense and engineering judgement.

As a sole trader with just a FGA, an electronic manometer, a differential temperature guage, a couple of temp/humidity USB data loggers, and a pencil to work with I obviously do not have the resorses that CHESS are endowed with.

But I can observe appliances in the field, or should I say, the house holders airing cupboard..

What concerns me is the knowledge that when the Condensing Boiler ,s return temperature is above 60 ish degrees centigrade the appliance is not condensing, you just have to watch the condensate trap to see this.

If I understand things correctly, by keeping the flow temperature across the heat exchanger at or below the temperature the appliance will condense at will make best use of the boiler and use the least amount of gas to provide the required temperature within the building..

The ability of weather temperature compensation to automaticley adjust the boilers burner pressure/heat input to keep the water temperature at a point where condensation continually takes place, by placing the outside temperature in to the equation surely helps reduce gas consumtion by keeping the appliance operating at 90% efficiancy or above. (band A boilers)

For condensing boilers to be retro fitted and just left with standard on/off controls that include a standard room stat is surely wasting customers hard earned money and only adding to the CO2 produced.

Danfoss Randall appear to be trying to address this problem of appliances that are not compatable with weather temperature compensation by bringing out their "chrono-proportional" controls.

I fully accept that don,t know the half of it when it comes to just how efficient appliances are and how they can be made best use of, thats for the manufacturers to do and keep us up to date with.
However I am aware of this and so am trying to find out by asking questions of what is being brought on to the market before I suggest it to my customers, and discussing it on forums like this ( www.argi-online.org.uk www.Gas-News.co.uk ) with interested blokes like namsag and others, which can only advance the knowledge of installers and reasure our customer,s.

Tim
 
A 30kW combi is not much good for two showers at once.
24 kw is "ok" for one shower, but 35kW is a lot better, if you have the mains to supply it. Most people do, because you're still only using about 12 litres/minute in the winter.
Some shower units need about 40 litres/minute to work well. That would need 120kW!

This begs the question: does a shower actually save water? Which is the mantra preached by the Government, Water Companies etc.

According to data from my Water Co, a cubic meter will supply 30 showers or 10 baths. That's equivalent to 33 litres for a shower and 100 litres for a bath. This means that at 12 litres/min you would have less than three minutes to have your shower; while at 40 litres/minute you would have 50 seconds :!:

I don't think so :)

Assuming a more realistic time of 5 minutes, the 12 litre shower would use 60 litres, which is less than a bath; while the 40 litre would use 200 litres, which is twice the water used in a bath!
 
No arguments with any of that. If you have an electric shower at an invigorating 3.5 litres/min or so, you can get clean in 5 minutes, that's 17.5 litres!
Whenever I'm out on the plains of Africa I find that two people can get a shower from one largeish bucket..
But people who demand hotel-type showers, up at the 40l/minute end, often have rather large baths too. I was contemplating a 300 litre one recently.
My shower's about 25l/min, though I don't usually use it at that.
For a single shower I'd want a combi at least 28-30kW.
 
You want a nice Sonya Doovle Semia 30kW, Band B so no fancy bits, £460+.
They make em in the Vaillant factory apparently.
 
No engineer in his right mind will argue that controls that automatically reduce the working temp of the boiler will save gas.
(You may have noticed that the above proves that anyone who disagrees with me should see a doctor. This is coincidence and not my fault.)
the main question is: how much more does it cost to produce, install, tune and service these additional controls?
Almost all my work consists of clearing up other people’s botch jobs. Fewer than 1 in 4 condensers I come across is balanced properly. I doubt if 50% have a proper earth. Not much more than 10% of the systems with a cylinder that I see is set for maximum efficiency. How many houses do we visit where the trvs are either fully open or full closed? Most users do not have timer and temperature set to achieve the best comfort/cost ratio.
Without installers willing and able to do a proper job and users willing to use and maintain as should be done, weather compensation will only serve one purpose: bring more work for installers.
 

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