He said fitting the lead through the letterbox was a requirement. I don't belive a 13A socket suitable for use outdoors that will fit through a letterbox exists.To what advantage?
He said fitting the lead through the letterbox was a requirement. I don't belive a 13A socket suitable for use outdoors that will fit through a letterbox exists.To what advantage?
Oh I see, I didn't appreciate your purpose.He said fitting the lead through the letterbox was a requirement. I don't belive a 13A socket suitable for use outdoors that will fit through a letterbox exists.
[ my emboldening ]The plug on the charger unit includes a thermal sensor, so that if the plug overheats, it will switch off and prevent a fire. ... If you use an extension lead you are bypassing that protection, as if the extension lead plug overheats it can't be detected, and will then cause a fire inside your house.
Perhaps a bit OTT for a 2-3 week temporary requirement ?The choices are
1 - have an external 13A socket installed and plug the charger into that.
It definitely can, but in this case it sounds pretty certain that the EV charger in going to be installed within a small number of weeks.The problem is temporary can become semi permanent.
The problem is temporary can become semi permanent.
Hence the way I wrote thisIt definitely can, but in this case it sounds pretty certain that the EV charger in going to be installed within a small number of weeks.
Kind Regards, John
If this really is only for 2 weeks, I don't like saying it but, do away with the surge protector to reduce the number of connexions to a minimum and carry on with what you have for now. Fuses do get warm when working near their maximum current, it is what they are designed to do but being a lower quality lead keep checking for heating and heat damage. If anything gets hot to the touch other than warm then rethink it.
I'd very likely dispose of the extension lead at the end as they really aren't made for such use.
Be honest with yourself... If this isn't a 2 week arrangement then get something much better; Permaplug plug and socket and minimum of 1.5mm² HO7RN-FF, I'd go for 2.5mm² to keep the losses down.
As long as the cable is safe against damage by the letterbox and it doesn't create a trip hazard or get damaged as the door opens and closes I don't see any issues and is something I have been doing for many years at a multitude of different venues. It isoften the only way of hooking up to power at customers premises without breeching their security."VERY IMPORTANT: I need to be able to put the extension through a letter box. That's really really important!"
It is VERY IMPORTANT that you do not put the extension thru a letterbox.
That part is easier, stay out of the way when the boat comes in.It is even much more important than you not getting someone to slap you around your head with a wet fish.
Good answer, I thought that comment might give a titter.That part is easier, stay out of the way when the boat comes in.
Yes in my case I've been hooking up temporary power and running cables for 60 years on customers premises and risk assessment has been applied for years before H&S kicked in. It's easy to forget that not everyone has the same experience and forsight.Good answer, I thought that comment might give a titter.
Although, seriously, to all but the most stringent of care the practice of putting extensions thru a letterbox potentially opens up the risks involved.
Heaters should not be used with extension leads either.but why should it be any more likely that the extension lead plug would overheat to the point of causing a fire whrn used for this purpose than if it were used for long-term powering of any other largish load (e.g. an electric heater)?
There are certainly potential issues associated with using heaters (or any large load) with extension leads, but primarily relating to the cable, not thee plug.Heaters should not be used with extension leads either.
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