Why is my CH so rubbish? (Potterton Puma 100e Combi Boiler)

[Spooked]

If you are confident, go for it!
I changed mine (Baxi 105e) and looking at your manual it shouldn't be any more difficult, and i'm a roofer
I suppose it depends on the costs involved, it looks like about £90 for the wax head.
If a fitter can get it cheaper and do it at a reasonable cost then i suppose it's worth having it done by the experts. (Maybe)
Just ask the boys on here for advice on tools etc before you start.

 

[adamtw]

Yes, the only thing holding me back really is having the correct tools for the job and anything else I might need such as thread sealant and knowing how to drain the boiler as it says in the instruction manual. I'd love to do it with expert instruction.

Knowing my luck, I'd get it all put back together and a leak would spring up. I have more luck with electrics than I do plumbing. I opened up a rad valve the other day and it sprung a leak!

 

[adamtw]

Flushing being done today, watch this space.......

OK< the flush has been done and apparently there was 'not much sludge' in the system. The flusher chappie called the chap who serviced the boiler (well, hoovered out lots of spiders as far as I could see). He apparently told the flusher chappie that the pipes are "done badly".

I'm no expert but I am guessing he doesn't have X-Ray eyes, how on earth would he know where the pipes are routed without pulling up floorboards?

I am betting their next suggestion is to re-pipe the house. Magic!

I despair

 

[twgas]

Knowing my luck, I'd get it all put back together and a leak would spring up. I have more luck with electrics than I do plumbing. I opened up a rad valve the other day and it sprung a leak!

wouldnt leave gas water and electricity to luck, better to use knowledge, experience and test equipment.

 

[Spooked]

Sorry adam, i would go back to my post about finding another plumber.
Your original bloke sounds like he should be a medium.
He can balance the rads without them getting hot and he can 'see' the pipe work without seeing it?
Very spooky
Sorry to hear you are still having grief, i know what it feels like

 

[ChrisR]

Adam - there are no special tools NEEDED for this job. Most of the nuts are 24mm with a couple 32 (grips will do) and there's a nut at the back which is 30mm , a socket is ok for that.
Standard 1/2" and 3/4" washers, one smaller for the pressure switch.
Once the boiler's drained, the old one is out in a couple of minutes, 5 mins to clean all the ends, and 3 mins to put back with new washers. All assuming acces is reasonable.
With all proper washers, you wouldn't get leaks.

Have you heate dthe waxstat like I suggested? Until you do you still don't know it's not a knackered pump, really.

 

[adamtw]

The only thing I have to heat up the wax stat is one of those kitchen bunsen burner things and I'm conscious that I might cook it. Any hints on how long to warm it up?

I know this is a noddy question, but just exactly how do you drain the boiler?

 

[JohnD]

could you heat it with the jet of steam from the spout of a kettle?

 

[ChrisR]

CH water gets to above 80 so if your spit doesn't sizzle on it you're ok.!

 

[adamtw]

I WAS RIGHT!!

They thought the next thing to look at was the pipework....they completely dismissed looking at the boiler at all!

I'm going to replace the damned thing myself.

Hints and tips greatly appreciated !

 

[adamtw]

Can anyone advise on how to drain the boiler? How much water will need draining off exactly, are we talking about a litre or lots more?

I read in my boiler manual that there is a bleed valve on the base of the diverter which needs to be open when refilling, which is another task I'm unsure about.

A 'simple' job now seems alot more complex, am I better off getting someone in to do this?

 

[Spooked]

I got about half a bucket of water when i drained mine.
Can't see why it would be much different for yours.
Which bit of the refilling aren't you sure of?
Come on Adam, don't bottle it now
Seriously, only you know your limitations.
Great satisfaction if you do it and it works but you need a certain amount of confidence.
Let us know what you decide.

 

[adamtw]

I will admit that I AM having second thoughts about doing this for a few reasons:

1. I am not a plumber or boiler engineer
2. I don't have all the tools required
3. I could make things worse or replace parts and it still not be fixed

So, I rang the Heateam company who are the service arm of Baxi/Potterton again. They have dropped the prices and for £299 all in, they will replace and repair anything that needs doing on the boiler and I then get a one year warranty against any other faults.

I worked out that I could spend about £150 on parts that I would probably replace such as the Diverter, Pump and Water pressure switch(which is disconnected and clearly not in good order). After all that though, it still might not be right.

The Potterton man will be able to do all those other things like range testing etc, plus if the PCB needs replacing also then its just another thing I won't have to worry about.

For all its worth, I'd rather get them out, get them to sort it all and leave me with some peace of mind. Also, he may suggest taking off the bodged pressure vessel affair and repairing the internal one properly.

I know it might sound like a bit of a cop out but I have learnt loads about the boiler and how it works, possible faults and also, where to find excellent advice.

Thanks to EVERYONE who has commented along the way, I'll update this thread with the outcome of the Heateam man coming out to fix it.

 

[patagonia]

Can't wait to hear how you get on with the Potterton people. I hope all your problems are in the boiler and not elsewhere in the system or you may still be in the proverbial with a large bill to boot.

 

[dipone]

i did one of these today the first thing to try is turn of the water going inot the boiler (cold mains) then try the heating again, the reason for this is if you have a leaking tap it will cool down the wax valve giving you no heating. did you try the wax valve in water did it move if not its gone to replace turn all valves under the boiler off open hot tap to drain the hot then open relief valve to dump the rest of the water the wax valve is facing you a flat nut to the right of the pcb you should beable to do the job in 10 mins its not hard.