Wooden floor warping

If you have floated a solid wood floor, that’s part of your problem, the fact you still have old vinyl down underneath sets off even more alarm bells regarding poor prep and the floor not being fitted to spec.
 
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If you have floated a solid wood floor, that’s part of your problem, the fact you still have old vinyl down underneath sets off even more alarm bells regarding poor prep and the floor not being fitted to spec.
He said it makes no difference if only adding extra cushioning. I can't see what harm it would do. Besides it would be sitting on cold concrete if you took the lino away. There is Wood Fibre Laminate and Wood Flooring Underlay over he lino anyway.
 
He said it makes no difference if only adding extra cushioning. I can't see what harm it would do. Besides it would be sitting on cold concrete if you took the lino away. There is Wood Fibre Laminate and Wood Flooring Underlay over he lino anyway.
Firstly, you should never float a solid wood floor.

Secondly, Sheet vinyl is cushion floor with a bounce to it, no wood flooring should be fitted on a bouncy underlay.

And that's before potential mositure issues that may be present in the subfloor assuming it has'nt been tested (as there is sheet vinyl down that has'nt been lifted.)

Were these people that fitted the floor builders? handymen? or professional floor layers? (serious question)
 
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A self employed builder/property repair. I don't want to go too much into the person as he in the main did a good job with other work he did for us but, as much as I appreciate the advise and knowledge, I think posting here is going to be under intense scrutiny whatever way it was done. I honestly don't think the lino is the issue here. Again, it is another layer of insulation from a very cold concrete floor and it is sitting on proper underlay. The lvt floor in the bathroom he laid is great.
 
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Does the floor go all the way to the wall under the cupboards. As it could be touching the end wall under the cupboards.
The intense scrutiny is because we think its has not been fitted correctly leading to "cupping" as it expands. It looks like it has but does this floor have a coating - did the chap do it or was it like that out the box (factory lacquered )
He said it makes no difference if only adding extra cushioning. I can't see what harm it would do. Besides it would be sitting on cold concrete if you took the lino away. There is Wood Fibre Laminate and Wood Flooring Underlay over he lino anyway.
The harm it would do is partly what you are experiencing. I agree with what crazydayz has said lino should of been removed and probably added a proper DPM then the correct underlay for the Oak or as I was suspecting the full real oak should not be a floating floor - it should be nailed to a wooden sub floor or possibly glued but I am not to sure about the glue. I fitted my oak floor as a floating one but it was engineered oak and was supposed to be fitted that way with each T+G glued.
What do the box instructions say about laying the floor.

Does your floor go all the way to the wall under the cupboards.
Another thing about the picture here is that he has put down a lot of the short planks right in the main walkway, It could just be my OCD but I dont think this is best practice either as that leads o lots of joins in the heavy traffic area. 1/4 way up from the bottom of the picture I can see 3 short pieces all in a row.
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A self employed builder/property repair. I don't want to go too much into the person as he in the main did a good job with other work he did for us but, as much as I appreciate the advise and knowledge, I think posting here is going to be under intense scrutiny whatever way it was done. I honestly don't think the lino is the issue here. Again, it is another layer of insulation from a very cold concrete floor and it is sitting on proper underlay. The lvt floor in the bathroom he laid is great.

Whilst I appreciate you have a failed floor and it must be frustrating, I personally have 30 years experience in the flooring industry and daily come across issues with various hard floors installed by builders and handymen.

Woodpecker do not state that ANY of their solid wood floors can be installed as a floating floor, all must be bonded or secured nailed to a correctly prepared subfloor with appropriate expansion gaps allowed.

If you clink the link above ^ and scroll to installation instructions, the link takes you to Woodpeckers generic solid wood floor installation guide, a quick skim read should confirm to you that the builder has completely messed up the floor preparation and installation. This is REALLY common, like I say, I come across this kind of thing almost daily, laying a solid wood floor is an Art, you don’t get any of the ‘leeway’ that an engineered floor floated correctly MAY give you. Solid floors are a different matter entirely (not that Enginnered doesn’t still need particular specifications to be followed for best results).
 
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