I'm about to start tiling my bathroom using bevelled edge brick tiles http://www.wallsandfloors.co.uk/cat...metro-brick-150/hielo-matt-white-8380/13396/. The question is what to do about the internal corner and edges? An older posts suggest to cut the bevelled edge of the full tile to match the edge of the half tile. Is that the best option? I would be grateful for your advice
Tiling brick bond with bevelled tiles
- Thread starter Yukster
- Start date
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You can cut off the bevels as suggested but you will obviously be left with short tiles on both internal & external corners. It’s the only option but you need to get the spacing right if it’s to look any good. Nothing else you can do about it, laying bevel edge tiles brick bond on external corners or if open ends are involved will never look right IMO.
Thanks Karis. Can you explain a bit about what you mean when you point out that I'll be left with short tiles on both internal & external corners? And how would i adjust the spacing to compensate for having short tiles?
Luckily, I don't have any external corners and the I'm tiling upto and under a window so I don't haven any open ends.
The tiles will be “short” because you’ll have cut one bevel off. If your tiling a wall to internal corners you should be OK, just space the tiles from the centre of the wall as normal. Unfortunately with brick bond, it won’t allow you to space either from the centre of the tile or the grout line to avoid thin tile slivers in the corners so it'll be pot luck how it works out.
Are you tiling up to or above the window cill height? If so, you will have external corners because of the window reveal. You will need to consider how you will finish these, taking into account the position of the window in relation to the overall width of the wall being tiled. You may also need to cut tiles lengthways unless your going to space them full bevel down from under the cill.
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I'm tiling upto the side of the window frame above the cill line and under it, up to the cill. What's the best way to finish the edge of the tiling by the window? I'd rather avoid using trim unless you think it would look bad without. It's a victorian sash window
Can you please advise what tile cutter to get. I'd like to avoid the normal DIY rubbish ones but I don't know which is a good one.
Lastly, if tiling over the bath, do I start tiling from the bath upwards (leaving 2mm gap for seeling)?
Thanks
Can you please advise what tile cutter to get. I'd like to avoid the normal DIY rubbish ones but I don't know which is a good one.
Lastly, if tiling over the bath, do I start tiling from the bath upwards (leaving 2mm gap for seeling)?
Thanks
You say you tiling up to the side of the frame, is the frame proud of the wall? Is there no window reveal?
I prefer mitred external corners (e.g. if your tiling into the reveal) but they can be tricky for DIY. If stopping at the window reveal (if you have one) you can use either tile trim (but cheapo plastic looks crap IMO) or leave a square edge & paint it wall colour but, if you have a window reveal & I’ve understood you correctly, your going to need to plan it out carefully or I don’t see how your going to avoid problems with the bevels at some point.
Rubi would be the my choice but the top end ones will be OTT for a “one off” tiling job unless your planning to do a lot more tiling work. A reasonable manual cutter can be had for around £40-£60 & even Rubi do a couple in that price bracket but I wouldn’t advise trying to cut bevel tiles with a manual cutter. A reasonable, budget diamond wet wheel cutter (£60-£100) is a better bet & will be perfectly adequate for what you’re doing.
Yes, fill the bath up before applying the silicone leave silicone to cure overnight before emptying the bath. Use only good quality sanitary silicone & the surfaces must be absolutely clean or the silicone won't stick.
The window frame is proud of the wall. there no window reveal.
Should I lay the first row of tiles above the bath first, fill the bath, seel it and let it set overnight and then continue to tile the rest of the wall the next day?
I got the Dow Corning 785 white http://www.screwfix.com/p/dow-corni...w&cm_mmc=AffiliateWindow-_-DeepLink-_-Na-_-Na is that a good one?
Shouldn’t cause too many problems then, just watch the spacing. It all depends on the room but I would concentrate on getting equal tile widths either side of the window rather than centering the tiles to the corners, nothing looks more odd than unequal tile slips either side of a window. You still need to watch the vertical spacing if possible, if your left with a bevel (or part of one) under the cill with square edges either side it’ll look odd.
Finish all the tiling & grouting first, applying the silicone seal is the last thing you do.
That should do you.
I've been reading up about diamond wheel cutters and seen some in shops. The ones I've seen have lukewarm reviews and some look flimsy. The Clarke ETC180 240V 500W Electric Tile Cutter http://www.amazon.co.uk/Clarke-ETC180-240V-Electric-Cutter/dp/B004M463PG/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top has two good reviews and the build quality looks all right going by the photo. Has anyone used it and if so can you let me know if it's good? What alternatives would you recommend?
After getting some advice I settled on the The Clarke ETC180 240V 500W Electric Tile Cutter. Can someone recommend a really good diamond tile cutting disc?
do cutting discs vary in quality? Some discs cost a lot more than others. Are they all cut the same?
I got the tile cutter and made some test cuts this morning. I took my time and didn't force it. The water was topped up. Unfortunately the crackly glaze chipped at the edge. I tried cutting a couple of different crackle glaze tile samples, some considerably more expensive than the one I'm using. But they all suffered from the same problem. Is it the cutting blade?! If it is what diamond blade disc should I get?
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