2 circuits done. 2 to go.

I started in the early 80s but on the 14th Ed. I was also force-fed Ring Finals.

I have always hated them. And I hate sparks who call them "Ring Mains". They are often a real PITA to fault find and it is very common to find that they have been horribly abused, altered or disfigured by idiots that have no idea what they are doing. Breaks in the ring are a big deal.

Whereas Radial Finals are much more straight forward both to install, fault find and be resistant to abuse.
Adding to the circuit is child's play.

Rings are a throwback to the late 40s where the circuit was designed to be as efficient in terms of material used as possible.

In many cases, you can replace a traditional ring final with a 20A radial final.
Well the reason the term ring main persists is because it has been in use for over a century when ring mains were (and for that matter still are) very common and in sizes well over the tiny 32A we know.

My own experience of 32A radials is they a right PITA having to run 2 or 3x 4 or 6mm² cables into the average 13A accessory and backbox, not forgetting of course the extra expense and bulk of thicker cables.
 
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The ring final was invented near end of second world war ready for post war rebuild, and many homes had 3 or 4 fuses.
Lights
Immersion heater
Sockets
Cooker
And in the main that was enough, often all fed from a 60 amp DNO fuse.

By the 1990's we started to increase number of circuits, the regulations gave us reasons for multi circuits, like minimising disruption when one circuit fails, and this coincided with the introduction of RCD protection.

Odd in some ways, as we saw many circuits on one RCD, so splitting sockets side to side so if one circuit fails extension leads do not need to up/down stairs, but splitting lights upper and lower means you need three RCD's today with the RCBO that's not a problem.

But we should complete the installation certificate which can be spilt into the.
Design
Installation
Inspection and testing
For design simply saying we always do it this way is not good enough, we have to consider changes in what we use today compared with years ago, LED lights etc.
 
.... Ring Finals. .... I have always hated them. And I hate sparks who call them "Ring Mains". They are often a real PITA to fault find and it is very common to find that they have been horribly abused, altered or disfigured by idiots that have no idea what they are doing.
As you will be aware, I'm much more 'neutral' than you, but agree with most of your specific points.
Breaks in the ring are a big deal.
It's not really all that massive a deal if the cable in Method C 2.5mm² - 32A is not much more than 27A and, anyway, it's probably very usual for a domestic ring final to be loaded even to 27A for an appreciable period of time.

Kind Regards, John
 
But we should complete the installation certificate which can be spilt into the.
Design
Installation
Inspection and testing
For design simply saying we always do it this way is not good enough ....
You don't have to 'say' anything. You simply sign to confirm that, to the best of your knowledge, the work is compliant with BS7671 - which a ring final is - and nor do you have to 'say' anything to explain your approach to splitting the installation into circuits etc.

Kind Regards, John
 
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I pretty much agree with what you said there Securespark.
However, providing designed correctly and maintained correctly they do have their benefits.
Allow more power total to be spread around the circuit and this can be worthwhile. If a radial is broken on one of the two live conductors then you lose power to a point or points, good indication, rings still work and can be overloaded in that situation.
However if the earthwire (OK cpc) is broken on a ring you would still have another earth connection unless that is broken too. Could make a difference, imagine a radial with broken earth, one or more points unearthed could be nasty, it could even mean that a fault on one appliance would not be disconnected and worse still perhaps, that fault is now also present on other appliances too.
OK if the circuit is RCD protected then it will give you another fighting chance.
Research suggests a 95% of the population might be saved with a working RCD 30mA non delayed type. Various researches into RCD failure suggests up to 7% of RCDs might fail. combined that might mean a12% fail rate. Good outcome for 88 people but bad outcome for 12 of them? the extra earth in a RFC might just save the day.
I understand why most of Europe (most of the world too) dislikes the concept of a ring final circuit.
I will admit that if a ring final just became invented today we would all be up in arms about it.
However, as I said, there can be advantages and disadvantages with both Rings V Radials.
And Yes rings are easier to beggar up both at design stage and during modifications but then again they have stood the test of time too.
I consider them not as a "throwback" but another choice to our armoury of circuits.

Oh, by the wy, Happy New Year everybody

PS - I too hate it when sparks call Ring Finals "Ring Mains" . A Ring Main might be out in the street or even at a power plant, but not at the utilisation installation. yer don`t have ring mains in houses or shops or business premises, you might have ring finals
 
You simply sign to confirm that, to the best of your knowledge, the work is compliant with BS7671
Unfortunately or maybe fortunately BS 7671 only gives the ground rules, so it may say volt drop shall not exceed 5% but it does not say how to achieve that.

In the main we consider a socket circuit will be loaded 20 amp at furthest point and 12 amp even distributed, so we consider the load on a 32 amp supply to be 26 amp when working out volt drop. This means for a 25 amp supply we consider it to be 25 amp. This means to cover the same area which would be covered by one ring final, we need 3 radials at 20 amp each, once we look at the cost of 2 extra RCBO's and the larger CU plus extra cable it is clearly more expensive to go down the radial route. We also have the inrush problem, and I know the problem trying to use a reduced voltage transformer when the premises has 20 amp type B MCB's. Some will work, but many will trip the MCB, but have no problem with a B32 MCB.

OK in domestic we do not tend to use 110 volt transformers, or welding sets, and one method is to used type C MCB's, but then the loop impedance becomes a problem.

For the DIY guy the loop impedance means ring finals need more expensive equipment, a plug in tester will show if under or over 1.9Ω but the ring final limit is 1.36Ω so the cheap plug in tester is no good.

However in real terms for DIY the biggest hurdle is to get the LABC to accept your signature. Even as an industrial electrician with all the test gear laid out for the inspector to see, with both of us holding the C&G 2391 certificates for inspecting and testing, we still had problems getting the LABC inspector to accept our signatures.

The only person who can sign the installation certificate is the person controlling the work, the LABC inspectors will not issue an installation certificate, as they have not been overseeing the whole of the work, they only visit a couple of times, so may issue a completion certificate, but not an installation certificate. In the main they want to shift the blame should anything go wrong, so will appoint some third party inspector who they trust, to inspect for them, at the owners cost.

The inspector can't sign the installation certificate, so uses the electrical installation condition report form, which is very similar to the installation certificate, but he is instructed to enter any deviations from the current BS 7671 it is not simply code 1, 2, or 3. He uses the form as if it was an installation certificate.

The inspectors have to be engaged before any work starts, and they will decide if the design is appropriate. The more info that is entered on the design, the less wriggle room there is latter for the inspectors to request extra work, for example if you show in your design the bathroom has an opening window and there will be no fan, the inspector has either to accept this, or say before you start he wants a fan, if however you don't stipulate either way, he can latter say I want a fan fitting, this happened to me, he said the opening window could be looked into by anyone calling at the house, so it would never be opened while some one was having a shower, so he wanted a fan. So a fan was fitted, it was never used, but had to be fitted. It would have been so much easier had we known before lights were wired up.

It seems the LABC does not like DIY, so they do all they can to discourage it, we would not have DIYed had we had an option, but the builder ran off in the middle of the job, and we had an amputee mother due home who needed a wet room. Far too much hassle working with LABC, when it came to full rewire, we used a scheme member firm so no hassle satisfying the whims of the LABC inspector.

But this forum is not who you need to ask, you need to ask the LABC inspector what he wants, it is his call, not ours.

The on site guide lists how many sockets should be fitted in each room, however not seen many homes where there are that many sockets. The portal has a load of official guides saying where sockets should be fitted, can't remember off hand, but know not to be fitted in corners as wheel chair users can't reach them. Also heights, it seems they will allow heights to match with a part re-wire, but again down to the LABC inspector, so if you want sockets not at the prescribed heights, put it in your plan, so it is agreed before you start.

There have be huge arguments about the heights of thermostats, in my house most are at 9 inches above floor hight, no real option as built into the radiators supply pipes, but the parts in the portal give a maximum and minimum height for items to be viewed, and items to be operated by hand, near impossible to comply with both, and of course needs to be where it can record room temperature, never tattled a building inspector on where a free standing thermostat can be mounted, which is why it is so daft.

I think you are very brave or naive trying to DIY home rewire using the LABC route, love to hear how you get on. My son and I would not want to do it all again.
 
The ring final was invented near end of second world war ready for post war rebuild, and many homes had 3 or 4 fuses.
Ring mains have been in service for a century or more. Sadly I threw out a load of books etc handed down to me by an elderly friend a few years back, one of which was akin to our current OSG which clearly showed how to install a ring main in a house using porcelain or glass insulators (Think old telephone poles style) and bare wire, the format was a complete ring of bare wire with ceramic tubes or beads where it went through any obstructions and insulated singles spurs on similar porcelain/glass insulators to the sockets. There were also training notebooks (foolscap graph paper books) from his fathers apprentice days showing ring mains and their variations for different applications.
A 1930's house built for dockyard workers, a friend of mine was born in was wired in paper/lead twin cable was definitely a ring right up to the house being sold about 20 years back. Her father swore blind the only thing done was extra sockets added but all I found altered was T&E spurs and additional kitchen ring, even the kitchen was part rubber and part 2.5mm² so I imagine started as a radial, especially as my friend recalled a socket being fitted for the twintub... Neighbours houses also showed remnants of lead cables.

A terrace of about twenty or so houses built early C20 had power added pre war with a 2 pole 30A CI fusebox, again for dockyard workers, that was a ring of pitch covered cotton/rubber singles run along the front of the block as a ring with alternate houses tapped using a CI junction box. Inside there was a socket (I think a 10 or 15A 2 pin) straight off the ring and a CI fusebox for the lights. The next block along was about half the number of properties with a 30A fusebox at the end and cotton/rubber singles radial without pitch, each property had a 5A socket (with earth from the gas pipe) and lights but no fuse. School friend lived in the smaller block and either fuse blowing was a regular occurrance, would have been mid to late 60's.

So no the ring circuit was not INVENTED due to the war, it was in service long before that.

PS - I too hate it when sparks call Ring Finals "Ring Mains" . A Ring Main might be out in the street or even at a power plant, but not at the utilisation installation. yer don`t have ring mains in houses or shops or business premises, you might have ring finals
As before it is the name they had always been known as prior to being adopted into wiring regs.
In the street i believe it is uncommon for LV ring supplies to properties, however My first house was the first or second on the feed from the sub and in order to keep the volts up for the 100ish houses I was seeing 260-270V until they added a feed to the other end.

Yes in large commercial installations it was fairly common to have ring mains feeding disboards, In one factory I have worked in there is a 11KV ring feeding 5x 1MW transformer, then some of those have a 960mm² (4x 240mm² armoured singles) ring feeding the DBs for much of it's area.
Oh, by the wy, Happy New Year everybody
And happy new year back to you.
 
This was found in a cottage a friend purchased. The "ring" was wired junction box to junction box and back to the fuse box ( yes fuses ). Each socket in the house was "spurred" off from a junction box.

 
....However, providing designed correctly and maintained correctly they do have their benefits. ... However if the earthwire (OK cpc) is broken on a ring you would still have another earth connection unless that is broken too.
As I've said, I'm personally pretty neutral in relation to the radial/ring debate. As I see it, the only real significant 'benefit' of a ring final is the 'CPC redundancy', which you mention above - but, as you also say, there is 'con' to balance that 'pro' ....
.. . If a radial is broken on one of the two live conductors then you lose power to a point or points, good indication, rings still work and can be overloaded in that situation.
... and, of course, if an L or N of a ring final is broken somewhere, there is no 'indication', so users remain oblivious to the existence of the problem which, as you say, could theoretically result in (minor) overloading of cables
Allow more power total to be spread around the circuit and this can be worthwhile
I'm not quite sure what you mean, and it depends upon what you're comparing with. A 4mm² 32A radial has the same total power supplying capacity as a 2,5mm² 32A ring final, but without any restrictions about apply all of the total load near an end of the circuit.
Research suggests a 95% of the population might be saved with a working RCD 30mA non delayed type.
I'm not sure what you mean by 'saved'. If you're referring to 'saved from death due to electrocution in domestic situations', there are so few such deaths in the UK (a couple of dozen or so per year) that there is very little scope for improvement, and at least some of those deaths will probably be those which no RCD could have been prevented. As I often say, if the amount spent on buying and installing RCDs over recent decades ('billions') had been spent on something else (like road safety), I suspect that far more lives could have bee saved.
Various researches into RCD failure suggests up to 7% of RCDs might fail. combined that might mean a12% fail rate. Good outcome for 88 people but bad outcome for 12 of them? the extra earth in a RFC might just save the day.
That's pretty speculative. The CPC of a sockets circuit is not necessary involved in electric shocks (even if the L involved is of such a circuit), so it's presence (or absence) may not make any difference in a particular situation.
I understand why most of Europe (most of the world too) dislikes the concept of a ring final circuit.
True, in a sense. It's probably more correct to say that they just did not ever see an need/point in introducing them (and would not have been happy with them, anyway)
I will admit that if a ring final just became invented today we would all be up in arms about it.
Indeed so. Just in the same way that if tobacco, alcohol, aspirin, paracetamol or whatever (all of which result in far more deaths than electricity) were to first appear today, they would almost certainly be outlawed/'not allowed'.
However, as I said, there can be advantages and disadvantages with both Rings V Radials.
As I said, the only real advantage of a ring I can think of is the 'CPC redundancy' (although, as above, that comes with a corresponding 'disadvantage'. 'Saving copper' (allegedly the main reason ring finals were invented) is either trivial or non-existent (particular after the move from BS3036 fuses to MCBs). Indeed, depending on the layout of sockets and cable routes, a 4mm² radial may use less copper than a 2.5mm² ring.
And Yes rings are easier to beggar up both at design stage and during modifications but then again they have stood the test of time too. I consider them not as a "throwback" but another choice to our armoury of circuits.
Agreed. As I've said, I'm personally pretty 'neutral'!

Kind Regards, John
 
This was found in a cottage a friend purchased. The "ring" was wired junction box to junction box and back to the fuse box ( yes fuses ). Each socket in the house was "spurred" off from a junction box.
As I've said before, I've seen fairly similar done (with the ring of JBs in the roof space) in modern bungalows with solid floors.

Kind Regards, John
 
PS - I too hate it when sparks call Ring Finals "Ring Mains" .
My understanding is a ring main is designed so sections can be isolated for work to be done, and the cable used can take the current permitted by the protection device.

The ring final however should not be broken, and was designed with the fused plug to save copper after WW2.

Other than both forming rings, they are nothing like each other.

I have seen posts about the idea of using two 16 amp MCB's one feeding each end of the ring, this could I suppose be called a ring main as it could be split into two radials to work on a centre section. However it is impracticable, even if the two 16 amp MCB's were physically linked, it would likely cause problems with RCBO use, and would not be what people working on the system would expect to find, so errors could easy be made.

The whole problem is a house is under the control of an ordinary person, they do not normally have a set of test instruments, or even the non battery powered voltage tester with proving unit. Often they use NCV testing (non contact volt) although my unit Testing for live.jpg is of a reasonable quality, many are rather poor to put it mildly, without the 4 stages shown by the one I use. So we need to keep domestic wiring to what the ordinary person will expect to find, and not expect them to know the difference by looking at a cable between 4 mm² and 2.5 mm² even in commercial premises I have found a 4 mm² radial split and extra sockets added as if it was a ring final with 2.5 mm².

So we use 20 amp radials and 32 amp ring finals, using 32 amp radials is asking for mistakes to be made by the ordinary person.
 
Unfortunately or maybe fortunately BS 7671 only gives the ground rules, so it may say volt drop shall not exceed 5% but it does not say how to achieve that.
As before, when one signs an EIC (or EICR) one does not have to 'say' anything about VD. To comply with BS7671 (which is all one is ';signing for') all that is required is that one is satisfied that VD does not result in supply voltages to connected equipment falling to a level which "impairs the safe functioning" of the equipment - and I struggle to think of a situation in which one would not be satisfied about that!
In the main we consider a socket circuit will be loaded 20 amp at furthest point and 12 amp even distributed, so we consider the load on a 32 amp supply to be 26 amp when working out volt drop. This means for a 25 amp supply we consider it to be 25 amp. This means to cover the same area which would be covered by one ring final, we need 3 radials at 20 amp each ....
Possibly, but it depends very much on the layout of the circuit. You often talk about 106 metres being the maximum length of a ring final (if one utilises the 'guidance' figures for maximum VD), but that's rather misleading, since it relates to both legs of the ring. Even if the sockets are all' in a straight line' that still means that the farthest socket can only be 53 metres from the CU. That is not dramatically different from the 42 metres maximum which you calculate (again, using 'guideline' max VD) for a 20A radial.
.... However in real terms for DIY the biggest hurdle is to get the LABC to accept your signature. Even as an industrial electrician with all the test gear laid out for the inspector to see, with both of us holding the C&G 2391 certificates for inspecting and testing, we still had problems getting the LABC inspector to accept our signatures.
In a sense, one can understand that -i.e. they favour 'a devil they know', and have selected themselves. However, that issue only arises if one wants to undertake everything (including the testing) oneself. LAs undoubted vary, but the fee mine charge for notification includes the cost of whatever supervision and testing they deem it necessary to organise themselves.
The only person who can sign the installation certificate is the person controlling the work, the LABC inspectors will not issue an installation certificate, as they have not been overseeing the whole of the work, they only visit a couple of time .... The inspector can't sign the installation certificate, so uses the electrical installation condition report form, which is very similar to the installation certificate, but he is instructed to enter any deviations from the current BS 7671 it is not simply code 1, 2, or 3. He uses the form as if it was an installation certificate.
That may be how things work out in practice, but I'm not sure that it is necessarily the case, particularly with LAs like mine. The person appointed by the LA could certainly (on an EIC) 'sign for' the design (if he/she had approved the design) and also for the I&T (if they had undertaken it). That just leaves 'construction', and that declaration on an EIC has to be signed for the person 'responsible for' the construction. That does not mean that the person signing has to have actually undertaken the construction and if (as with my LA) the person has been contracted to undertake whatever degree of supervision the LA deem necessary, then I would think that such a person could be reasonably regarded as 'having been responsible for' the construction.
The on site guide lists how many sockets should be fitted in each room, however not seen many homes where there are that many sockets. The portal has a load of official guides saying where sockets should be fitted, can't remember off hand, but know not to be fitted in corners as wheel chair users can't reach them. Also heights, it seems they will allow heights to match with a part re-wire, but again down to the LABC inspector,
As you imply, a lot is down to individual BCOs, but it's worth noting that the OSG (and also the Approved Documents) are even less 'authoritative' (let alone 'mandatory') than are the Appendices of BS7671, so cannot be used as a determinent of whether something is, or is not, compliant with BS7671 (which is meant to be what matters!).
I think you are very brave or naive trying to DIY home rewire using the LABC route, love to hear how you get on. My son and I would not want to do it all again.
Is that a 'royal you' (perhaps "one)? I personally am not "trying to DIY home re-wire using LABC", so won't be able to tell you how I get on. I have, in my time, undertaken complete re-wires, but that was prior to the appearance of Part P (hence notification).

Kind Regards, John
 
I have seen posts about the idea of using two 16 amp MCB's one feeding each end of the ring ...
So have I, but would think that approach is problematical and potentially dangerous, and I'm far from convinced that it would be compliant with regs (unless, perhaps, the two MCBs were mechanically linked). It would also have practical problems since, although theoretically a "32A circuit", one of the MCBs may well operate if anything approaching 32A were connected close to one end of the ring.
So we use 20 amp radials and 32 amp ring finals, using 32 amp radials is asking for mistakes to be made by the ordinary person.
I don't really understand that. As I often say, I'm not all that comfortable with 20A radials, but am very happy with (and use) 32A ones.

Kind Regards, John
 
(unless, perhaps, the two MCBs were mechanically linked)
However it is impracticable, even if the two 16 amp MCB's were physically linked,
I did point that out. As to 32 amp radial, the question is as with all domestic installation will it cause a danger when in the control of an ordinary person.
So we need to keep domestic wiring to what the ordinary person will expect to find, and not expect them to know the difference by looking at a cable between 4 mm² and 2.5 mm² even in commercial premises I have found a 4 mm² radial split and extra sockets added as if it was a ring final with 2.5 mm².
The same applies to a ring final where some one has not checked if still a ring. Or swapping from splitting side to side to up/down, side to side was the norm before the RCD, it gave a better loop impedance and would not temp people to run leads up/down stairs in an emergency when a circuit failed, but we don't put red, yellow and blue dots on the sockets to show where fed from, may do that with commercial to show which phase, but what ever house some one has been raised in, that person will go to the next house and expect it to be the same.

It has been said many times, we can have a power cut any time, however doing something which causes one to get a shock, and at same time plunging one into darkness is to be avoided, so most homes need at least 3 RCD's but most consumer units until RCBO's became popular had just 2.

But how far do you go to protect idiots, try to protect them, and they just get worse, as a boy I had two shocks, one I stuck my finger in a bulb holder not knowing the switch was faulty which is why my dad had removed the bulb, and the other touched a live wire trying to repair a spool to spool tape recorder and on/off switch was faulty. Both daft mistakes, and both taught me a lesson, neither killed me, clearly or put me in hospital. And both before I became an electrician after that point they don't count. Neither would have been stopped by having a RCD, although it may have reduced the time I got the shock for.

It is possible when in this house the flat roof leaked without an RCD the socket could have gone on fire, but unlikely. So how far do we go?
 
"My understanding is a ring main is designed so sections can be isolated for work to be done, and the cable used can take the current permitted by the protection device.

The ring final however should not be broken, and was designed with the fused plug to save copper after WW2.

Other than both forming rings, they are nothing like each other."

Agreed, A Ring Main say at a power station is designed with conductors the csa of a radial, if there is isolation each side of any component then the rest of the set up carries on as a radial (actually two radials) all good so far. Or you could isolate a group of adjacent components, those would all be isolated and the remainder still in use.
The Ring Main in the street is to mitigate volt drop so is sometimes wired as such.
The Ring Final in your home is meant to be all or nothing in normal service, it is a final circuit. However say you have (Switched or Unswitched) Fused Connection Units (Sometimes wrongly referred to as "Spurs") then the Ring Final Circuit is actually the distribution circuit feeding those.
 

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