He also said he tried it on an offcut, so it seems the trunking and angles are simply not compatible or hes simply not pushing enough to overcome the lip
Bad experience of Screwfix Tower trunking - how's it work?
He also said he tried it on an offcut, so it seems the trunking and angles are simply not compatible or hes simply not pushing enough to overcome the lip
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D
Doggit
Yes I did, but I had to assume that he meant the picture was the actual way he was doing it, otherwise why show the channel upside down in the corner piece. Taking that into conjunction with the screwfix picture, his description seemed to suggest he was in fact fitting it upside down. As I've used the screwfix channeling, and had no problems with it, I couldn't come up with another solution, other than he was in fact fitting it as per the picture he's posted.
I was reading it late at night, so I've obviously gone wrong somewhere. But I still liked BAS's dig at me; he's got hidden talents.
But having gone back over it, I now suspect the channel is bending in on one side, so when the corner cap is pushed into place, rather than slipping past the channel and clicking into place, it pushes the channel inwards
OP here.
Yes. That's exactly what's happening. Thank you. You can be gentle or rough with it, it just won't click into place. I'm assuming that all you guys have used this (Tower - now Schneider Electric) brand so I can only surmise that my 2 x 2m lengths are duff. Perhaps the channel wall thickness is just that bit too thin, or the clips are correspondingly too stiff. Perhaps the extruder wasn't set right that day. Between my problems with this trunking and the mess left by my bad plasterboard plugs, I'm scared to go back to Screwfix to get those chisels I fancied
And yes, I figured out which way round the channel goes.
Yes. That's exactly what's happening. Thank you. You can be gentle or rough with it, it just won't click into place. I'm assuming that all you guys have used this (Tower - now Schneider Electric) brand so I can only surmise that my 2 x 2m lengths are duff. Perhaps the channel wall thickness is just that bit too thin, or the clips are correspondingly too stiff. Perhaps the extruder wasn't set right that day. Between my problems with this trunking and the mess left by my bad plasterboard plugs, I'm scared to go back to Screwfix to get those chisels I fancied
And yes, I figured out which way round the channel goes.
D
Doggit
The picture you showed of the channel, shows it has a slight curve on the RH side. Not sure if you can twist it outwards, and then push the corner piece on quickly before it springs back. And be brave, and go for the chisels. Screwfix staff are normally helpful enough to know some of the stuff they sell is cr@p, and will just say sorry, and take it back without batting an eyelid
And of course, apologies for being so dense Paul.
And of course, apologies for being so dense Paul.
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I hate you. You've just reminded me that I have a mitre box and an adjustable mitre saw but didn't use either. Reaching again for my emoticons...
There you go - start again - it's only a few quids worth of trunking, and you can re-use some of it. The corners will look neater anyway. Ts need a bit of careful work with a Stanley knife to get right - how many do you have to do?
Is Santoprene the stuff that makes your toolbox smell like someone has thrown up in it?
Bas whats the stanley knife for please,
If you are doing without the cover pieces, then to make a tee you need to carefully cut a section of the sidewall out of the through run, so that when you but the end of the side run to it, there's a channel through. Also, ideally you need to remove the corresponding profile from the underside of the lidding to minimise it's intrusion into the space for the cable.
It takes a bit of practice, but you can do a really neat job with a bit of care.
To remove the section of side, I personally do it this way ... I use the Gilbows (tin snips) and make two cuts, a little in from where you need the edge to finish up. Then get a sharp knife, and cut into the inside angle between base and sidewall - this creates a stress raiser and you can usually then fold out the bit of wall, wiggle it a bit, and eventually it'll break off (might need a bit more work with the knife). Once you have an open slot, you can clean up the two sides (taking them out to where you need them) and bottom of the hole with the sharp knife.
Another reason for doing DIY joins is that you don't have to space the trunking out from a corner if you're putting it in a corner. The cover pieces fit over the outside of the trunking, so you need a small gap between the trunking and whatever it's run alongside to allow for this. And if your installation isn't to look crap, you need to keep this small gap consistent along the run.
Oh yes, and when you cut it with a saw, you need to clean up the ragged edge - sharp knife is a good tool.
It takes a bit of practice, but you can do a really neat job with a bit of care.
To remove the section of side, I personally do it this way ... I use the Gilbows (tin snips) and make two cuts, a little in from where you need the edge to finish up. Then get a sharp knife, and cut into the inside angle between base and sidewall - this creates a stress raiser and you can usually then fold out the bit of wall, wiggle it a bit, and eventually it'll break off (might need a bit more work with the knife). Once you have an open slot, you can clean up the two sides (taking them out to where you need them) and bottom of the hole with the sharp knife.
Another reason for doing DIY joins is that you don't have to space the trunking out from a corner if you're putting it in a corner. The cover pieces fit over the outside of the trunking, so you need a small gap between the trunking and whatever it's run alongside to allow for this. And if your installation isn't to look crap, you need to keep this small gap consistent along the run.
Oh yes, and when you cut it with a saw, you need to clean up the ragged edge - sharp knife is a good tool.
Ts, ive just clicked in, i thought that was a typo
It's for being the (probably) most appropriate tool for cutting a hole in the side of the trunking where you need a T junction when you aren't using T-junction trunking accessories.
In the sketch below, where I have shown a red line, is where the "cross-piece" of the T needs to be opened up, otherwise running cables into/out of the "downward" bit of the T gets a bit tricky.
Scalpels have sharper blades, but they aren't strong enough - Stanley knives seem to do the trick for me.
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