is that dry conditions outside i cant see them meaning dry conditions inside unless your working without the roof. it will be interesting to hear what they say, and i hope you never asked them if it will be effected by wet or damp because it says that on the tub. "Even with driving rain the water cannot penertrate to the scratch coat and i should know ( situ ) " meaning what, how should you know? and what has situ got to do with it.Freddie said:jbonding said:Freddie said:jbonding said:Freddie said:Wood doesnt split when wet it's the drying process which does that---the pva glue fails when it gets damp--the wall i refer too was taken off as a precaution due to extreme frost--no render failiure it was only a plinth of 3 blocks high.
When skimming there is minimal water in skim so the underlying wall can only get damp which as dj i think it was explained and it controls the sucktion of the skim to prevent it drying on the interior wall.
An exterior wall has to be hosed down before work starts and there could be gallons of water in the render----many many many many more times the amount of water used in interior skimming of walls thus what chance would pva/unibond have in outside conditions--plus also the moisture content of interior masonary would be around 6% exterior walls would be in the region of 25% plus---all this is self explanitary to the dumbest of people so i cant understand jbonding why you cant quite grasp it.
Also can you tell me when you do any plastering as you always seem to be on here and must be yhe only plasterer with a laptop instead of a spot
why is there a reference to rendering on the side of the pva?
what does the reference say?
do you think they put it on just to fill in the spaces?
will waterproofer waterproof your wall?
how does the water get out after its passed the waterproofer?
whats the problem mixing scratch coat and top coat the same?
im the boss so i work out the hours
I just found a tin of Durabond pva sealer/adhesive i have--and it DOES mention concrete--floor screeds --and sand cement render------It DOES NOT say anywhere on the tin about using it in EXTERIOR OR CONTINUALLY DAMP CONDITIONS. and render or hardwall sand/cement is used extensively on interior walls. and after using this stuff for many years and seeing problems with people trying to use it in such places i would challenge anybody to say it will stick tons of render or help in any way to stick tons of render in an exterior or continually damp situation.
As regards waterproofer i again would like you to answer my previous question which i will again ask----you say no waterproofer in finish coats only in scratch coat because of the chance of frost blowing in the situation you describe---my question the same rule would apply to your scratch coat if water got behind that onto the wall thus blowing the lot off so surely as many coats of render on the wall they should have waterproofer in to lesson any chance of water penertration---so how can you say only scratch coat?
Waterproofer doesnt waterproof the wall but allows the penertration of onlly a few millimeters, it doesnt allow full penertration on to the actual wall.--as i said before many times your exterior wall is very damp--one reason why you have a wall cavity and your interior wall very dry--your exterior wall will be roughly the same moisture content of the surrounding air---NOT SUITABLE FOR PVA GLUES one reason why you wouldnt use them on garden furniture and other outside things.
Once moisture or water has penertrated into the wall finish or even brickwork in a brickwork situ the wall would gradually dry with the surrounding conditions which is WHY you always have a wall cavity and houses without are always damper.
where does it refer to indoor use only?
you dont get it ive never said it will stick tons of render the key ie raking out or eml, the pva can be used to seal the dust and control suction.a waterproofer in your scratch coat and none in your top coat or a waterproofer in both coats, lets compare the two. its p******g down for days against a rendered wall. severe rain will soak through the top coat on either one. no water proofer in the top coat will soak in water and dry OUT, like you say it might reach the scratch coat but driving rain wont. waterproofer in the top coat is under severe rain condition the water will pass through but cannot readily pass OUT so were does it go? Quote freddie "Once moisture or water has penertrated into the wall finish or even brickwork in a brickwork situ the wall would gradually dry with the surrounding conditions which is WHY you always have a wall cavity and houses without are always damper.[/quote does that includ FREEZING conditions.
It does say Durabond performs best in dry conditions, but like i say with my experience of pva i challenge any manufacturer to say it will work outside and not be affected by wet or damp, and to prove my point i have emailed them this evening just for you.
I see your point on waterproofer and top coat and that makes sense but for 2 reasons----Even with driving rain the water cannot penertrate to the scratch coat and i should know ( situ ) and also if there was any crack in the scratch coat ( and there always is-- plenty of them ) then the water in your discription can get through to the blocks and your deep freeze will blow the render in the way you discribe------so basically your argument is self defeating especially as render should be painted as further protection against any mishaps such as cracks.
Freddie said:Situ--- means where i live on the wet windy west coast of Ireland 1 mile from the see behind a mountain that makes the clouds deposit 2000mm plus rain per year.
Cracks meaning that render is full of hairline cracks do to drying out--true they may not be full depth but also any crack in the blockwork or mortar joint will show through any amount of coats of render after 12 months even if covered with expanded metal before rendering----settlement for up to 20 years it is said that a house will settle and this causes small cracks in render--etc etc etc.
Infact the process here is to not paint for the first few years and let any cracks appear then fill with ? and then paint.
99% of houses here are 4" block built and two coat rendered and you have never seen wind or rain like it unless you live here.
My personal view is you cant beat a wooden house, then you dont have these problems
legs-akimbo said:Am I missing something here J bonding : You state rendering and plastering with your sealobond and as you yourself state " follow with a bonding coat and apply render or plaster"............Now Pleeeeease dont tell me that you can use bonding and plaster outside!!!
I can only assume that when you read references to render you are under the impression that this is a referal to external applications only, has it occured to you that a render coat also applies to internal work, hence the references on tubs of pva are indded intended as a guide for render "floating" as in float and set.
I have just dug out another tub of pva made by evostik and following the usual gumph the detail ends in EVOBOND IS NOT SUITABLE FOR EXTERNAL SOLUTIONS So that is two tubs of pva both stateing what everyone else has allready told you, surely its time to be humble enough to admit you have got it wrong.
All the info you have on your pva I have on mine but again theese refer to internal applications as the simple paragraph of "DO NOT USE EXTERNALLY is clear concise and all encompassing.
You say you are asking me for its uses ? Do you mean pva and what I use it for?
You want solid proof about external waterproofer. I think I have convinced every man and his dog beyond repute by quoting the Irish guidance document, the fact that I as an experienced plasterer am familiar with the methods employed in rendering externally, dealing with engineers that insist on checking that renders are correct and adhereing to specifications given to me to work to, as well as stateing the instructions from the product of a multi billion turnover manufacturer of waterproofer, well if that aint proof enough just exactly what do you want.
Freddie said:One thing i aint b****y Irish my blood line is far superior to that. I moved here to escape the muslim enclave you live in
As regards painting houses to hide things--well nearly every rendered house i have ever seen anywhere in any country is painted so am i missing something???
Freddie said:Just found a used tub of Larsens pva bond and it says in bold letters on the usage---donot use in areas of permanent damp or wetness.
I dont think there is anymore to say jbonding except that you are completely wrong and are a bit of a cowboy when it comes to knowing how to render outside walls, perhaps you should stick to tarmacing drives.
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