Can I DIY a chewed cable?
- Thread starter Jon12345
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there maybe a lot more wires that a chewed that you maynot be able to see - I know last year my M-I-L had this and the guy had to do a lot of rewring in the loft
not sure on regs, but if the cable is accessable then you could use a couple of ringmain 30A junction boxes - OR wago connectors and box for ring main - may need larger if cooker (pos 45a) or shower (maybe a larger powerrating , depending on if 10mm or 6mm cable )
or 20A if lighting
need to know the cable type (size) and what its supplying, as quite a few different possibilities
not sure on regs, but if the cable is accessable then you could use a couple of ringmain 30A junction boxes - OR wago connectors and box for ring main - may need larger if cooker (pos 45a) or shower (maybe a larger powerrating , depending on if 10mm or 6mm cable )
or 20A if lighting
need to know the cable type (size) and what its supplying, as quite a few different possibilities
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You can cut out tne damaged cable and put a new piece in joining tne individual conductors with wagos in a maintenance free box. Or crimp and cover with shrink fit. Plenty of videos on YT. If you doubt your skills or don't want to risk cutting off power for longer than necessary, get a sparky in. Make sure the squirrels are gone and cant get back.
Are you sure that you have squirrel proofed the loft?
I am not an electrician, but if you are simply replacing sections of cables, I am not aware of any reason why you are not legally allowed to.
If there is no "play" in the cable, you may well need to use two suitable junction boxes and a new section of (equally rated) cable between those two junction boxes
I am not an electrician, but if you are simply replacing sections of cables, I am not aware of any reason why you are not legally allowed to.
If there is no "play" in the cable, you may well need to use two suitable junction boxes and a new section of (equally rated) cable between those two junction boxes
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No requirement to use maintenance free junction in a loft.
If its very localised, you could pass it thru a round junction box, possibly without cutting any copper.
Split the coloured wires apart, and run them thru the U terminals
If its very localised, you could pass it thru a round junction box, possibly without cutting any copper.
Split the coloured wires apart, and run them thru the U terminals
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I asked because I have no idea about the regulations and that sort of thing. I can YouTube it easily enough for the method. I presume I need to buy some electrician rubber gloves for safety too?
Amazon have this: Wago 2 Port (10) 3 Port (10) 5 Port (5) 221 Splicing Connector. I presume that would be suitable to buy?
Amazon have this: Wago 2 Port (10) 3 Port (10) 5 Port (5) 221 Splicing Connector. I presume that would be suitable to buy?
So long as you confirm that the circuit has been isolated, there is no need to wear rubber gloves.
Wagos are great, but they need to be in some kind of box.
There are cheaper alternatives.
You need to buy enough test equipment to be absolutely certain that the cables that you are about to work on are safe. Do not rely on rubber gloves to keep yo u alive.
turn off the electric! (no gloves required)
Use a head torch (and have a back up)
Use a head torch (and have a back up)
Could we please know what the cable was supplying? Is it part of the lighting or for an electric shower?
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I do not know . It is just a wire in the attic I came across that seems chewed and disconnected.
The fuse gives a big spark out in the fuse box downstairs when I replace the fuse. I am not sure if it is related to that wire or somewhere else.
A picture of this fuse please.
Bear in mind, rats or whatever it was that chewed the cable, can get to places you can't so you will need to get rid of the rodents before they cause more damage. Cables are cheap. Repairing fire damage caused by chewed cables is not.
Bear in mind, rats or whatever it was that chewed the cable, can get to places you can't so you will need to get rid of the rodents before they cause more damage. Cables are cheap. Repairing fire damage caused by chewed cables is not.
Picture of the chewed cable too
For everyone's safety, I think the answer to the thread title is "no".
If you can work out where the cable is going from and to you'll have some idea of what you need to do and how much of a faff it is, sometimes you strike lucky (like I did) and find the gnawy dickheads nibbled on a 3m length going between a junction box and ceiling rose which was a piece of cake.
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