Cat5 what router?

[robinbanks]

Yes

as long as both were done the same

That's the detail I was omitting for the sake of simplicity for the target audience

 

[SUNRAY]

Yes

That's the detail I was omitting for the sake of simplicity for the target audience

I knew of an office where the patch bay was wired to one standard, let's say 568A and the wall sockets to 568B and nobody noticed. That was until we turned up and added some more for AV purposes but wired correctly.

 

[martygturner]

Not sure I agree with that; the internet is full of routers - every time you use a website your packets probably went through at least 10 of them. Adding another isn't going to slow things noticeably.

If you pay extra for a booster I'd have instead used the money on a decent router to replace the crappy one Vodafone supplied, and if they didn't work because too many stone walls between the east wing where the office is and where the Internet comes in I'd install a
WiFi access point such as something in the Ubiquiti UniFi range..

To the garden room query, I concur with the others - take a laptop and a short cable and connect the laptop directly to the router in the house. If the speed is fine do the same with the longer cable to the garden room. If the speed is poor the first thing I'd do is cut both plugs off, strip all the wires on one end and twist them all together then do the resistance test with a multimeter, checking each paired colour in turn that all wires read the same low value, then I'd crimp new plugs on and repeat the test with just the laptop. Turn off wireless on the laptop to be sure that the laptop is using the wired connection and not the wireless (and that the speed is slow because the signal is poor to the house from the garden room)

You said you followed the T568B wiring to a tee, but just wanted to make sure which way round the plug was- you should have the gold contacts facing you.. upload a clear picture of your plug so we can see the wire colours through the plastic?Ah

Ah basic miss comprehension of a broadband router v a network router.... a broadband does four jobs - internet conection, DHCP,, dns and routing where as a internet router only does routing. If two routers exist on a netwrk one will send any unresolved addresses out to the internet... hence a p poor network response.

 

[SUNRAY]

I sometimes have half dozen broadband routers of varying vintage on a network and to date not encountered any issues, is there something I should be looking at/for?

 

[Why Not Indeed]

If two routers exist on a netwrk one will send any unresolved addresses out to the internet... hence a p poor network response.

Only if they're not set up properly.

 

[martygturner]

Only if they're not set up properly.

exactly or if they can be... lots are crippled.

 

[robinbanks]

Ah basic miss comprehension of a broadband router v a network router.... a broadband does four jobs - internet conection, DHCP,, dns and routing where as a internet router only does routing. If two routers exist on a netwrk one will send any unresolved addresses out to the internet... hence a p poor network response.

What a load of nonsense

I sometimes have half dozen broadband routers of varying vintage on a network and to date not encountered any issues, is there something I should be looking at/for?

No; marty's throwing in irrelevant terms from unrelated OSI layers regards services and connectivity that combined modem/routers run for the benefit of the private side of the network. Given adequate, relevant admin access to the devices, it is perfectly possible to set up several subnets at home using old ISP devices that route traffic well and manage services like DNS proxying and doling out IP addresses for their relevant subnets, as your setups may well attest

 

[chirpychippy]

Sorry, had to go back to work, hopefully Friday ill get back in the quest of connection issues.

In the meantime we've upgraded our plan with Vodafone to Fibre, 910/ 105 upload with Super WiFi and Pro11 for a very palatable exactly the same monthly price we are paying now.

Our current Router is the THG3000 which doesn't have good WiFi reviews....

I think most people, myself included, learn as much as we need to know on how to function with technology, it's generally the router name and password and off you go surfing the net, if anything goes wrong we ring the isp and they normally fix it.

That said, I have found this exercise interesting, so Friday I'll post the connections I've done on the cat5 and try and test the cable speed etc.

Thank You.

 

[FrodoOne]

I knew of an office where the patch bay was wired to one standard, let's say 568A and the wall sockets to 568B and nobody noticed. That was until we turned up and added some more for AV purposes but wired correctly.

Not sure what you mean - particularly "correctly".

One can use either 568A or 568B,
as long as the same "protocol" is followed at both ends of the same cable.


The four pairs of conductors are "colour coded" based on the "ancient" coding of "Telephone Exchange" cable wiring -
having a Colour wire of each "Pair" - plus a "Mate" - with the "Mate(s)" of the first 20 "Colour" wires being White.

The mnemonic for organizing/terminating cable pairs was
"PAT the MLA"
Positive, A side, Tip, Mate, Left, A side

The order of the "Coloured" wires was
1 Blue
2 Orange
3 Green
4 Brown
5 Slate.

It then went on
6 Blue-White
7 Blue-Orange
8 Blue-Green
9 Blue-Brown
10 Blue-Slate

11 Orange-White
12 Orange-Green
13 Orange-Brown
14 Orange-Slate

15 Green-White
16 Green-Brown
17 Green-Slate

18 Brown-White
19 Brown-Slate

20 Slate-White

Hence, one could designate the first (or only) 20 "pairs" in a cable - by this "colour code"

The next 20 pairs in any cable would have a different coloured "mate", and so on.

Because of the above "historical" sequence,
I find 568A (Blue, Orange, Green, Brown) (Alternatively Left and Right from the centre [Blue])
more "natural/logical" than
568B (Blue, Green, Orange, Brown)

Incidentally, the The U.S. government requires the use of the T568A standard for wiring done under federal contracts.

See also https://www.truecable.com/blogs/cab...RrwchO3NyYuJdn_UUJ1vMpCT53Zb5ZXxtHSiXCbvN1zsn

 

[SUNRAY]

Not sure what you mean - particularly "correctly".

Did you read what I posted properly

One can use either 568A or 568B,
as long as the same "protocol" is followed at both ends of the same cable.

✔

The four pairs of conductors are "colour coded" based on the "ancient" coding of "Telephone Exchange" cable wiring -
having a Colour wire of each "Pair" - plus a "Mate" - with the "Mate(s)" of the first 20 "Colour" wires being White.

The mnemonic for organizing/terminating cable pairs was
"PAT the MLA"
Positive, A side, Tip, Mate, Left, A side

The order of the "Coloured" wires was
1 Blue
2 Orange
3 Green
4 Brown
5 Slate.

It then went on
6 Blue-White
7 Blue-Orange
8 Blue-Green
9 Blue-Brown
10 Blue-Slate

11 Orange-White
12 Orange-Green
13 Orange-Brown
14 Orange-Slate

15 Green-White
16 Green-Brown
17 Green-Slate

18 Brown-White
19 Brown-Slate

20 Slate-White

Hence, one could designate the first (or only) 20 "pairs" in a cable - by this "colour code"

The next 20 pairs in any cable would have a different coloured "mate", and so on.

✔
White, red, black, yellow, takes it to 80 pairs followed by the A leg being striped, white/red (although later violet was used) to 100.
I'm apprentice and 22 years BT served. I much preferred the more logical later system where the A leg was striped with the B leg colour. When terminated in sequence was also much easier to spot an error.

I find 568A (Blue, Orange, Green, Brown) (Alternatively Left and Right from the centre [Blue])
more "natural/logical" than
568B (Blue, Green, Orange, Brown)

Incidentally, the The U.S. government requires the use of the T568A standard for wiring done under federal contracts.

See also https://www.truecable.com/blogs/cab...RrwchO3NyYuJdn_UUJ1vMpCT53Zb5ZXxtHSiXCbvN1zsn

One has to remember this format has developed over the years, I'll take a punt that it is/was simply T568. The A and B suffix relating to the A end and the B end of the path between between 2 devices, don't forget that in earlier formats all systems required a crossover somewhere.
In my minds eye 568A does seem more logical than 568B but there again I feel both of these are even more logical

deliberately croosed through so no-one thinks they are advice.
However I wouldn't split pairs across a connector (as done with pins 3&6 in 568 or my right image) as the whole point of twisted pairs is isolation.

 

[FrodoOne]

Did you read what I posted properly

I re-read it and NOW see that which you meant !

I'm apprentice and 22 years BT served. I much preferred the more logical later system where the A leg was striped with the B leg colour. When terminated in sequence was also much easier to spot an error.

I had over 45 years in PMG Australia/Telstra Australia - starting as a "Technician in Training"
but
became involved with Planning, Statistics and Computers
within a Year of the end of my 5-Year Course.

When I "started" (1953), the insulation on the wires was (I think) "lacquer",
covered with coloured strands of "waxed cotton"
for "separation" and "identification".
The covering for the "Mates" (A side) of these were all "solid" colours.

PVC insulation (with much more readable colours), on bare conductors, came along later!


As a sideline, I have been accused of being Blue/Green "colour blind"
but
I am not.
I CAN tell if one "thing" is "Bluer" or "Greener" than another (as in a Blue/Green "waxed cotton" wire cover and as compared to a Blue or Green cover)
but
I might "term" an individual item in isolation as Blue when another might say that is it is Green - ore vice versa !

Since the Spectrum has (almost) infinite graduations,
I consider that it is all a matter of "degree".
(e.g. Is "Aqua" Blue or Green ?)

(There are some languages which do not have different words for what might be described as either Blue or Green - in English.)

 

[SUNRAY]

I re-read it and NOW see that which you meant !

I had over 45 years in PMG Australia/Telstra Australia - starting as a "Technician in Training"
but
became involved with Planning, Statistics and Computers
within a Year of the end of my 5-Year Course.

When I "started" (1953), the insulation on the wires was (I think) "lacquer",
covered with coloured strands of "waxed cotton"
for "separation" and "identification".
The covering for the "Mates" (A side) of these were all "solid" colours.

There was loads of that still in use when I came out in 1994

PVC insulation (with much more readable colours), on bare conductors, came along later!

I joined 1972 so all plastic by then although paper insulation was still being installed underground

As a sideline, I have been accused of being Blue/Green "colour blind"
but
I am not.
I CAN tell if one "thing" is "Bluer" or "Greener" than another (as in a Blue/Green "waxed cotton" wire cover and as compared to a Blue or Green cover)
but
I might "term" an individual item in isolation as Blue when another might say that is it is Green - ore vice versa !

Since the Spectrum has (almost) infinite graduations,
I consider that it is all a matter of "degree".
(e.g. Is "Aqua" Blue or Green ?)

(There are some languages which do not have different words for what might be described as either Blue or Green - in English.)

 

[chirpychippy]

I'm back! I gave up on this quest feeling bamboozled by the information given, I worked out I could use the wifi hotspot on my ee mobile to watch films etc.

In the interim we had the broadband upgraded to Fibre with faster this that and the other.

To the point, I plugged the laptop in in the shed, internet appeared but was dead slow so I took the ethernet cable out of Lan2 and put it in Lan3 "Hey Presto", so onto network switches and access points.

Is a managed switch better than an unmanaged switch, I can get a TP Switch 5 port gigabit switch for £17.99 or a Netgear same configuration for £21.99, then there is POE switches which I don't understand.

Access Points or TP Links, is it better to spend more? I've noticed some are £20ish through to £80 ish, the AC1200 wireless access point seems to fit the bill but them there is the 300mbps wireless N access point or AX3000 Gigabit WiFi 6 Access Point.

In the shed, I have a smart TV, an Xbox, which both I presume can be hard wired through a switch, but there are two Wahoo Kicker smart trainers WiFi only which when in use are linked to two laptops which again need WiFi.

So I suppose my question is what to buy for the best outcome.

Thank you.

 

[hllns]

Access Points or TP Links, is it better to spend more? I've noticed some are £20ish through to £80 ish, the AC1200 wireless access point seems to fit the bill but them there is the 300mbps wireless N access point or AX3000 Gigabit WiFi 6 Access Point.

In the shed, I have a smart TV, an Xbox, which both I presume can be hard wired through a switch, but there are two Wahoo Kicker smart trainers WiFi only which when in use are linked to two laptops which again need WiFi.

So I suppose my question is what to buy for the best outcome.

The smart trainers are almost certainly 2.4G only devices so N/AC/AX won't make much difference to them.

For most home setups where it's just being used for Internet the broadband is normally the limiting factor so Wifi 6/AX doesn't gain you a lot, unless it's the same price as AC just go with AC. Go for something something branded with some good reviews.

 

[flameport]

Is a managed switch better than an unmanaged switch,

Managed switches have features and functions which you don't need and will never use.

POE switches provide power via the ethernet cable. Only needed if you have devices which use that such as security cameras and office telephones.