I'll drag the laptop down there tomorrow and test the theory "Good Idea" for now, it's like a monsoon outside...
Cat5 what router?
- Thread starter chirpychippy
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I plugged the lap top in and loaded the Internet, it does work, but is painfully slow....
Then, I believe we're back to some poor connections.
There is some redundancy within the cable that would still allow limited connectivity - that's what the laptop seems to be demonstrating.
Did you test the cable with the tester prior to, or since installation?
Since, installation....
Besides the tester I have doesn't give signal strength it's merely a line tester....
The route back to front is GR then underground 18 meters, out of the ground through the shed over ground, suspended on a steel wire between shed and house soffit,clipped to soffit, through the garage then into a coil of about 10 meters then through the wall into the router.
I expect the coil isn't helping...and or connections...
What would constitute a bad connection please?
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Yes Sunray that is the wiring sequence I used to the tee.
Can we chat about the Hub that is in our Bungalow. It isn't Fibre, the thing that puzzles me and I haven't given any thought until now is that we have the Hub and then within 6 metres my wife has WiFi Booster in her office also from Vodafone also on a monthly tariff.
Why isn't the Router enough in such a small proximity, any ideas please...
Why isn't the Router enough in such a small proximity, any ideas please...
Do you think it's required?
I assume you didn't try to strip the wires and you cut them all to the same length
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Coils of cable should not cause a problem [I guess this is because of the twisting of the pairs]. It's certainly not uncommon to leave a loop of cable coiled up hidden somewhere in order to be able to move things around in future without having to pull a cable again.
We're probably getting way off into the weeds here but if you connect your laptop in the garden room, you will be able to dig in the network card status somewhere and see what speed the link is running at. Compare that with what the link speed is when plugged directly in to the router [and this comparison is only valid if using the same socket on the router both times]. If it's the same in both, then the cable is fine. Cheaper than buying an actual ethernet tester!
Plug in your laptop to the naked feed Ethernet in the shed, Open a command prompt, in windows type command in the the box and run the program that pops up, at the command prompt type ipconfig/all and copy the results to a txt file, plug in the router , do not use the wan port, plug directly into lan port, plug your laptop into the next lan port you will need to refresh the lan adapter, type ipconfig/renew then do ipconfig/all , copay paste results. Then do the same but switching the the Ethernet feed to the wan port, Ipconfig/renew followed by ipconfig/all and copy and paste the results. Post them up.
It just sounds you have a conflict on the network and somethings not routing well.
As for the speed issue... it depends on which port on the gateway router in the house you are taking the shed feed from, some have 4 gigabit ports others have a mix of 10/100 and if they are switched or static.. ie a switch port unit will switch the load and 10 by 100 will only give a max of a 100 or fall back to to 10 megs if the line is noisy. most but all laptops have a pair of led's... a primer is here : https://computermesh.com/ethernet-port-lights-blinking-green-orange-red/
In these situations its never advisable to use a router as a termination for an extension of a lan because guess what they want to route things as its there job. Best to get a cheap switch, terminate the feed to that then add a simple wifi hotspot. That way all the routing is done by the gateway router.
It just sounds you have a conflict on the network and somethings not routing well.
As for the speed issue... it depends on which port on the gateway router in the house you are taking the shed feed from, some have 4 gigabit ports others have a mix of 10/100 and if they are switched or static.. ie a switch port unit will switch the load and 10 by 100 will only give a max of a 100 or fall back to to 10 megs if the line is noisy. most but all laptops have a pair of led's... a primer is here : https://computermesh.com/ethernet-port-lights-blinking-green-orange-red/
In these situations its never advisable to use a router as a termination for an extension of a lan because guess what they want to route things as its there job. Best to get a cheap switch, terminate the feed to that then add a simple wifi hotspot. That way all the routing is done by the gateway router.
The Booster? According to Mrs Chirpy the wifi drops out constantly in her office which is about 6 metres from the Hub, just strikes me as odd.
Yes I followed the same diagram, that's not to say it didn't take numerous attempts to get it to work. Stripped outer sleeve, uncoiled the 8 cables but kept them in pairs then proceeded to rearrange to the configuration shown. I cut the ends square parralel and fed them into the connector. Crimped and cut excess off with the crimper tool, which I must say at £12 is carp, but what can I expect...
Unless there is a wall of metal or lots of solid walls etc between the router and the office devices it should be a useful signal at 6m. A simple test would be to place the booster close to the router and see how it works. I almost feel... No I mustn't make accusations.
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This might be a bit basic for the network people, but I would test it with a multimeter:
Connect (short) the connections on the plug at one end, then measure the resistance between every connector at the other. If there is a bad connection somewhere then you will get different readings for some connections - the highest resistance is the problem connection.
Do you mean you are paying monthly for the booster?
Work out the straight line between the router and pc, if it is going diagonally through a wall then moving a few feet might make a difference.
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Not sure I agree with that; the internet is full of routers - every time you use a website your packets probably went through at least 10 of them. Adding another isn't going to slow things noticeably.
If you pay extra for a booster I'd have instead used the money on a decent router to replace the crappy one Vodafone supplied, and if they didn't work because too many stone walls between the east wing where the office is and where the Internet comes in I'd install a
WiFi access point such as something in the Ubiquiti UniFi range..
To the garden room query, I concur with the others - take a laptop and a short cable and connect the laptop directly to the router in the house. If the speed is fine do the same with the longer cable to the garden room. If the speed is poor the first thing I'd do is cut both plugs off, strip all the wires on one end and twist them all together then do the resistance test with a multimeter, checking each paired colour in turn that all wires read the same low value, then I'd crimp new plugs on and repeat the test with just the laptop. Turn off wireless on the laptop to be sure that the laptop is using the wired connection and not the wireless (and that the speed is slow because the signal is poor to the house from the garden room)
You said you followed the T568B wiring to a tee, but just wanted to make sure which way round the plug was- you should have the gold contacts facing you.. upload a clear picture of your plug so we can see the wire colours through the plastic?
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If you have suitable assistance I'd suggest doing the tests with the plugs still on and short pairs together one at a time using a short piece of wire.
Good call, It hadn't occurred to me there is a possibility the laptop would pick-up a Vodaphone router at that distance if it is dodgy to 6m
It won't matter if the termination was done with the plug inverted, as long as both were done the same, there's not enough difference between the orage and brown pair to make a difference, I've seen many many cables wired like the middle part where all I've done is flip that part of the drawing and for completeness, at the bottom I show T-568A which would also not have made a difference as long as both ends are the same:
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