I have lost count of the number of times a wheel fitter has gunned up the nuts then to use torque wrenched to set the nuts. Lesson 1 of 1 if the torque wrench clicks on first rotation its over torqued not to the right level.
Yeah, when I’m teaching my students how to fit wheels, they are told to tighten by hand, let the car down then torque up to correct setting. I explain to them that if the nuts should be, say, 110Nm and they are gunned up, if the wrench clicks without turning the nut, it could have been tightened up to 111Nm or 200Nm and they wouldn’t know. I tell them I want to see the nut turn before the wrench clicks.I have lost count of the number of times a wheel fitter has gunned up the nuts then to use torque wrenched to set the nuts. Lesson 1 of 1 if the torque wrench clicks on first rotation its over torqued not to the right level.
Ever drove a car with loose wheel nuts ? Tends to be why wheels have a torque setting supplied by the manufacturerCar wheels are held in place by the friction between the wheel and hub. The wheel bolts just squeeze the two together to increase this friction, the wheel does not get held by pressing against the sides of the bolts as many think - if this was the case they'd rattle about with every revolution.
So greasing is probably not a good idea, you're then putting something slippery between surfaces that need to mesh and grip together.
I'd like to see this.Cobblers! The tapered wheel nuts prevent the rim from moving, not friction between the wheel and hub. On a Range Rover service sheet it is a service item to remove the wheel and apply some anti-seize lubricant between the two.
What on earth will 'rattle' about with every revolution of the wheel? If you’ve got a rattling with every revolution of the wheel, your nuts are loose!
Most if not all mechanics are taught this. It's taught early in the learning cycle.Unfortunately that would be the industry ideal. Training understanding the requirement and how to use a tool to deliver the right result. It happened so often it seems it be a strategy to 'show' the customer in using a special tool to make it look like we know what we are doing. Unfortunately mostly the customer only realises this when they try to change a wheel at the roadside.
How does this remind me about a parable around socialists and Brexit?
Find me some proper information about clamping forces and grease please to back up you and notties claimDon't be daft you silly old maid. Mottie has forgotten more then you know. If the training worked I would not repeatedly observe poor practice.
On the centre hole yes. A small amountA smear of anti sieze compound ( grease) on the hub stops the wheels jamming onto the hub
I get your point, yes they're tapered. But they don't take the weight of the car, they just squeeze the wheel on, the hub takes the weight directly, mostly via friction.Cobblers! The tapered wheel nuts prevent the rim from moving, not friction between the wheel and hub. On a Range Rover service sheet it is a service item to remove the wheel and apply some anti-seize lubricant between the two.
What on earth will 'rattle' about with every revolution of the wheel? If you’ve got a rattling with every revolution of the wheel, your nuts are loose!
20 years in the motor trade and I’ve never heard anyone say anything remotely like that. The wheel nut is the most important part and grease on the hub, nut flange etc will have no negative effect as the nut/s hold the wheel on.I get your point, yes they're tapered. But they don't take the weight of the car, they just squeeze the wheel on, the hub takes the weight directly, mostly via friction.
The wheel bolts just stop the wheel sliding against the hub. They indirectly take the weight of the car, but they do this horizontally by squeezing the two together. The car applies little weight vertically to the bolts, if you slackened them until they did take the weight then they'd probably snap.