Double pole switch kitchen

[JohnD]

I don't understand, you have a electric hob, you must have a 'cooker circuit' ?

or maybe not

. This electricity socket which looks just the same as the ones in my lounge has 2 wires hardwired into it protruding out from beneath.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Well that needs clarifying as a matter of #1 priority.

No cooker circuit = no electric hob, and that's all there is to it.

 

[mraskaby]

Ok, i am going to stick to the microwave, airfryer and takeouts until an electrician looks at it. I had a new consumer unit put in a few years back and whenever i switch the oven and hob on at the same time it throws the power in my lounge so tbh i havent really been using them much anyway. One of the reasons why im looking into electrics is because of this. My cooker/hob in my cu is only on a 32A mcb-i have a feeling this is why its been happening-shouldnt the guys who put it in have known this-it is a domestic electrical fitting company btw-they spent time looking at the wiring too for the cu fitting, im confused .

Oo im sorry, i am a man of many questions. What is a 2 gang unit for. It is just that i thought a 2 gang electrical socket was for 2 plugs ,and i have seen 2 gang dp switches?
Thanks for your answers.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

whenever i switch the oven and hob on at the same time it throws the power in my lounge

Do you mean the MCB trips?

The hob should not be on the same circuit as the sockets in your lounge, but unless you've got an awful lot plugged in there a hob should not trip the breaker.

My cooker/hob in my cu is only on a 32A mcb

32A is very standard for a cooker circuit. More is rare, and unnecessary unless you've got some monstrous hotel-sized cooker.

-i have a feeling this is why its been happening-shouldnt the guys who put it in have known this

They should not have put it on a socket circuit, but as I said that's unlikely to be why the breaker trips.

-it is a domestic electrical fitting company

There are plenty of people trading as electricians who shouldn't be.

btw-they spent time looking at the wiring too for the cu fitting

Doing what?

What is a 2 gang unit for. It is just that i thought a 2 gang electrical socket was for 2 plugs ,and i have seen 2 gang dp switches?

For switching 2 things.

 

[mraskaby]

Thanks for all your answers guys, its really appreciated.
This is mainly in reply to ban-all-sheds but any extra info from anybody is great.

1. As regards ,the dbl oven and hob operated together throwing the sockets in my lounge and dining room, here is a photo of my cu. hope it can help.

2. for installation of dbl oven and hob, dbl oven manual recommends a 45A dp control switch- would a 45A Mcb need to be inserted or is the 32A Mcb still ok to use with the 45A dp control switch?

3. As regards, what they were doing in the kitchen, i was led to believe for safety reasons the wiring needed to be checked in the kitchen-bathroom was checked too.I had never had a cu installed- my dad told me i needed to update the electrics with a new cu- thats only reason i was having it done.

4. 2 gang unit is for switching 2 things-great ,i reckoned it was. I bought a 2 gang dp switch out of curiosity but it has no instructions. Looking at it i presumed L1,N1 and L2,N2 was for the 2 appliances but i cannot see where the feed connects. Here is a photo, could you enlighten me pretty please

5. When i get an electrician to install my dbl oven and hob, is there a certificate or something that i should get or receive? I would like to safeguard against bad workmanship or at least know i am safe.

Many thanks for all replies in advance. Hope you can help

 

[securespark]

Thanks for the photo. But you need to tell us exactly which of those levers trip.

WRT the cert, the very least you should get ought to be a Minor Works Certificate (MWC).

 

[Chri5]

Of centre topic, why have you got 16 amp circuits marked bath and shower?

Do you have a spa bath and a pumped shower system? If the shower circuit is meant to heat water as a contained electric shower the fuse and cable is very under rated. If the shower is a simple pump it's over rated.

The two pole switch you have is supply in N1 and L1, load N2 and L2.

Per the cu you have a 32 amp cooker circuit, you need to confirm that with diversity your load of the oven and hob will not exceed this fuse rating and cable size.

I'd suggest you stop buying things, stop posting and get a spark to health check the circuits before you do anything that maybe screws up a system that appears to already have faults.

Why are the shower, cooker, lights and bath circuits off?

Not sure why a door bell xformer is wired on the direct non rcd way of the cu?

 

[securespark]

So that the bell and cupboard light (presumably where the CU is) will work if the RCD trips.

 

[JohnW2]

When i get an electrician to install my dbl oven and hob, is there a certificate or something that i should get or receive? I would like to safeguard against bad workmanship or at least know i am safe.

WRT the cert, the very least you should get ought to be a Minor Works Certificate (MWC).

I agree with securespark, but unfortunately the world is not as simple or as perfect as you seem to imply. Any work undertaken by an electrician should come with some paperwork (at least a MWC) from that electrician, but I am afraid that does not necessarily "safeguard against bad workmanship" or guarantee that you are safe. As when employing any trades(wo)men, there is no real substitute for using an electrician who comes recommended by people you know and trust.

Kind Regards, John

 

[mraskaby]

Cheers guys, you are amazing.
where to begin..

1. Wrt MInor Works Certificate, will all qualified electricians be able to supply it? May they charge extra / turn their noses up at supplying one? Edit: sorry ignore this one, JohnW2 just answered it.

2. Wrt 2 pole switch, if N1 & L1 supply and N2 & L2 load, does that mean the 2 appliances are both connected at the N2 & L2 connections so both N2 & L2 each have 2 wires going in as its a 2 gang DP Control switch? If thats the case, what makes it a 2 gang switch as opposed to a 1 gang switch. Sorry i know its probably a stupid question, yes i know its twice as big but with what inside over a 1 gang one.

3. Wrt shower and bath, yes they are a jacuzzi bath and multi jet shower each with radios. Reason switched off is i bought as a luxury but lol i only use basic bath/shower..perks not needed.

4. Wrt Diversity, my cooker is rated (230-240v. 50hz 4400-4800w). My hob is rated (240v 50/60hz 7000w). These are the items i am looking to have installed. Is this the information you need to tell me if i need a bigger than 32A Mcb to go with a 45A DP Control Switch?

. You guys really know your stuff and assuming that last install could have well how do i say 'been done better', you guys are helping me stop it happening again. Thanks . Forums are brilliant. Thanks again in advance.

 

[securespark]

Using diversity allows you to connect these appliances to a 32A circuit.

OSG advises making sure the switch is easy to get to in case of emergency and that it is within 2m of each appliance.

 

[EFLImpudence]

2. Wrt 2 pole switch, if N1 & L1 supply and N2 & L2 load, does that mean the 2 appliances are both connected at the N2 & L2 connections so both N2 & L2 each have 2 wires going in as its a 2 gang DP Control switch? If thats the case, what makes it a 2 gang switch as opposed to a 1 gang switch. Sorry i know its probably a stupid question, yes i know its twice as big but with what inside over a 1 gang one.

The supply live (red or brown) goes to supply L1 and the neutral (black or blue) to supply N1.

Then a single cable from the switch - live from load L1 and neutral from load N2.
This cable goes to the connector unit below the worktop to which you connect the oven and the hob.
Saves having to remove the tiles to change the appliances.

A 'two-gang' switch actually has two switches.
This is not what is in the picture; that is a one-gang, two-pole switch.

I would suggest getting one without a neon light as it will always be on.

4. Wrt Diversity, my cooker is rated (230-240v. 50hz 4400-4800w). My hob is rated (240v 50/60hz 7000w). These are the items i am looking to have installed. Is this the information you need to tell me if i need a bigger than 32A Mcb to go with a 45A DP Control Switch?

Yes, you will need a 45A switch.

Forums are brilliant.

Saves getting up.

 

[mraskaby]

The side of the box says its a 2g , didnt make sense to me and i know nothing about electrics.

That is the one item i bought and its box..even has a little sticker on the box and on the device which match and say M1222?

Its also worth pointing out that i ordered a 45A one and got sent this 50A one which aswell as this doesnt seem to be what it says it is anyway. There arent even 50A ones in the screwfix catalogue-i assumed must have been new stock or something?!

 

[EFLImpudence]

Firstly, sorry, I thought the first picture of the back of the switch said 30A.
I now realise it is 50A and so it will be alright.

What that means is it takes up the space of two single switches.
Confusing to say the least. As I did not realise it was 50A I never thought of that. Not exactly the correct term.

It is definitely not a two-gang switch.

You can get 45A cooker switches the same size as one normal switch, if you prefer.

 

[mraskaby]

So would i be correct in assuming a 2 gang switch will have an appearance with 3 obvious Ns and 3 obvious Ls, ie supply and 2 loads.