Personally I think heat dissipation would be superior with no backboard at all, and they don't get that hot anyway. Two bits of vertical 2×2 with the bracket screwed into those, one screw at either end, is all that's really required. Use long screws that go through the bracket and timber into the masonry behind and it'll stay there forever more.
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- Thread starter Mr.B
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Got to be honest, never seen that suggestion before. The wall in question is quite solid cement based block (not crumbly or resembling a biscuit) and nice and flat too. It needs a half decent masonry drill rather than being able to make a hole in it with a knitting needle. It's a great surface to get a good fixing on.
Have you actually done it, or seen it done?
I had visions of standing the boiler 65mm (two and a half inches) off the wall so as to leave space for 22mm pipes with 19mm insulation fitted (it is an unheated garage).
Yet more food for thought.
Presumably there's no issue with the pipework to [and from] the bottom of the boiler having to do an immediate 90 degree turn to face the wall, then another, immediate, 90 degree turn to face upwards? It seems a bit restrictive but I guess the fact that the right angle bends are close to each other is neither here nor there?
Have you actually done it, or seen it done?
I had visions of standing the boiler 65mm (two and a half inches) off the wall so as to leave space for 22mm pipes with 19mm insulation fitted (it is an unheated garage).
Yet more food for thought.
Presumably there's no issue with the pipework to [and from] the bottom of the boiler having to do an immediate 90 degree turn to face the wall, then another, immediate, 90 degree turn to face upwards? It seems a bit restrictive but I guess the fact that the right angle bends are close to each other is neither here nor there?
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Page 15 of the Intergas Installation Manual for the Xclusive 24/30/36 Combi models shows that the hanging bracket has fixing holes 320mm apart. The case width is 450mm.
By my rudimentary calculations two bits of timber measuring 95mm x 65mm would serve the purpose. At 95mm wide the timber would sit flush with the side of the case and look a bit better than it might if the the two timbers were narrower and, as such, would have to be inset from the edge of the case. Given that you can buy either planed or sawn 4x4 timber and run it down to size, I'd have thought the result would be fine and comply with muggles suggestion. There would be 65 mm clearance for the pipes and their insulation and the 95mm side allows the hanging bracket screws to fix nicely into the timber.
I think I'd be inclined to counter bore the timbers and use separate screws for securing into the blockwork. Maybe 3 or 4 per side.
By my rudimentary calculations two bits of timber measuring 95mm x 65mm would serve the purpose. At 95mm wide the timber would sit flush with the side of the case and look a bit better than it might if the the two timbers were narrower and, as such, would have to be inset from the edge of the case. Given that you can buy either planed or sawn 4x4 timber and run it down to size, I'd have thought the result would be fine and comply with muggles suggestion. There would be 65 mm clearance for the pipes and their insulation and the 95mm side allows the hanging bracket screws to fix nicely into the timber.
I think I'd be inclined to counter bore the timbers and use separate screws for securing into the blockwork. Maybe 3 or 4 per side.
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He is googling like mad so dont get too confident, he will be back
He means well, but like a few others on here have no real experience, only in their own homes,but think that because they have read things online then they must be true, I have had a few run ins with him too, the sad thing about any forum, is too many post and only want the answer they want to hear,and so often Bennyboy gives them that answer even though it is completely wrong
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