Kill switch doesnt kill engine

The wire is single strand but its fine outside the case so i need to get inside the case now i believe
 
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If you take the sole plate off the bottom of the machine the guts often can fall out.
Has this happened?
John :)
 
NO
I removed the bottom plate.
Then i see the blades & maybe 2 geras etc.
Plenty of grease.
Thats as far as i got inside.

Are you saying at this point with the allen bolts out the lower section should come apart.

There is a loer plate say 5mm thick then another section before the bottom of the body which is say 1 1/2 inch thick
 
Unless you need to replace the blades I'd recommend leaving things alone. However, the grease does tend to be thrown away from where its really needed, so spread some around the pins that drive the blades and also around the gear teeth.

Regarding the cut out wire......strip the insulation away, scrape the wire beneath to remove the varnish and then extend it.
With the engine running, earth that wire to any metal part of the engine and tell us what happens.
John :)
 
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That reply doesnt have anything to do with my reply.
I am not replacing the blades,i advised how far i got & what i could see.

Weve establised the wire is ok & i need to get inside the case.

No point extending it as its fine when used with a multimeter
 
Ok, I'm just trying to help but I've lost the plot a little with this one!
If the wire is fine with a multimeter I can't see it being faulty inside the casing where there's nothing to disturb it.
John :)
 
Ive supplied readings like asked when i connect a meter to the wire coming from inside the case.
So do the readings show its excessive or acceptable ?

The wire is complete without breaks from the body through the switch to the bung where it then goes into the case.
This could mean its not connected inside & thats why when i touch it to the body the engine doesnt kill.
 
Ok, I'm just trying to help but I've lost the plot a little with this one!
If the wire is fine with a multimeter I can't see it being faulty inside the casing where there's nothing to disturb it.
John :)

I must admit, that despite my best efforts, I am loosing the plot too.

If the OP checks continuity (buzzes) between the end of his 'stop wire' and the engine case, then he should have continuity - for the OP - It should buzz. Tat will confirm his 'stop wire' is sound and connected. In which case if the OP shorts the end of the wire to the engine case, the engine should also stop.

Has the OP checked the continuity (buzzed) the ground wire, to make shure that is sound? He should buzz it between where is connects to his switch and to the engine casing.
 
I think you dont follow me sorry.

I have checked for continuity from all the wire that i can see and there is no damage.

This doesnt mean that its connected to anything inside the case.It just tells me there is no damage on the outside of the case of which i can see.

So the readings i show for when i connect to the wire from inside the case do they look good or not.

This should tell you if the wire is broken or come away from its place inside the case.
 
OK, just to ease my pain....once more, please check the resistance of the wire poking out from the bung and the metal engine bits. One probe on the wire, the other stuck on the engine.
Don't touch the meter probes with your fingers - that will measure your body resistance too. Remove any varnish that may be present - its an insulator.
John :)
 
Ive done that and my results are in post 6

Here they are.

Hi,
I have now set to ohms and here are the results.

200 = 1
2000 = 1
20K = 1
200K = 1
2000K = 1
200M = 00.0 fluctuates to 00.2

This is the wire that comes out of the coil & through the engine casing connected to meter then the engine body.

Read more: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/kill-switch-doesnt-kill-engine.526797/#ixzz5vYr8ilqo

Assuming your meter showing '1' means open circuit, that means there is a break somewhere in the wire.

The '1' will be showing the same as with the meter not connected to anything.
 
So when i do a continuity test and it shows OK then do a test with the ohms scale and it show 1 then the issue is on the isnide of the case Correct
 
From
So when i do a continuity test and it shows OK then do a test with the ohms scale and it show 1 then the issue is on the isnide of the case Correct

So far as I have been have been able to interpret your replies, then yes the problem is a broken wire or connection, within the case.
 
So please tell me what is keeping this plate from coming away from the body.
 

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