Manufacturer says 15A fuse needed for 2.79kW oven

[gavman99]

We currently have 2 single ovens, both of which came with a plug fitted, so they're both plugged into their own single sockets on the kitchen ring main.

We want to replace both ovens and were looking at AEG model BEX335011M which needs to be hardwired. The manufacturer website states the power rating is 2.79kW yet it states the required fuse is 15A. I'm confused by this because a 13A fuse should be able to handle a max of 2.99kW.

The product info on the following websites all state that the required power/fuse size is 13A (as opposed to 15A) : Currys, Marks Electrical, Applicances Direct & John Lewis. Some even offer installation options which specifically mentions "13A/32A"

Q1 - Are there any legitimate safety concerns at all with connecting this oven to a 13A FCU ?
Q2 - Is it simply a case of swapping out my standard single socket for a 13A FCU as a straight replacement on the kitchen ring main ?

Any help appreciated. Thanks.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Fuses are to protect cables; not appliances.

The fuse on an oven supply just needs to be large enough so that the oven does not overload it and cause it to blow so in effect it is a minimum rating.

We currently have 2 single ovens, both of which came with a plug fitted, so they're both plugged into their own single sockets on the kitchen ring main.

We want to replace both ovens and were looking at AEG model BEX335011M which needs to be hardwired. The manufacturer website states the power rating is 2.79kW yet it states the required fuse is 15A. I'm confused by this because a 13A fuse should be able to handle a max of 2.99kW.

Don't be confused. Manufacturers make mistakes and they do not have 13A fuses in Europe.

The product info on the following websites all state that the required power/fuse size is 13A (as opposed to 15A) : Currys, Marks Electrical, Applicances Direct & John Lewis. Some even offer installation options which specifically mentions "13A/32A"

All British companies; unlike AEG.

Q1 - Are there any legitimate safety concerns at all with connecting this oven to a 13A FCU ?

No.

Q2 - Is it simply a case of swapping out my standard single socket for a 13A FCU as a straight replacement on the kitchen ring main ?

Why not fit a plug and keep the socket?

 

[EFLImpudence]

Do you not have a "cooker" circuit?

 

[gavman99]

Why not fit a plug and keep the socket?

It did cross my mind but if I need to get AEG out for a repair under their 2 year warranty, is there a chance they could say it's not covered due to incorrect installation ?

Do you not have a "cooker" circuit?

We have a Hotpoint induction hob which has its own circuit but the 2 ovens are eye level and on a different wall. So even if it was possible/allowed to hook the ovens into that, don't see how we could physically get to it as dont want to be ripping up flooring.

 

[EFLImpudence]

It did cross my mind but if I need to get AEG out for a repair under their 2 year warranty, is there a chance they could say it's not covered due to incorrect installation ?

Well - they might say it (try it on) but they would not be justified in saying it.

The fuse has absolutely no effect on the oven.

We have a Hotpoint induction hob which has its own circuit but the 2 ovens are eye level and on a different wall. So even if it was possible/allowed to hook the ovens into that, don't see how we could physically get to it as dont want to be ripping up flooring.

Ok.

 

[Ragnar_AT]

There’s no 13 A plug fuses on the continent but 13 A MCBs. No 15 A fuses either, the standard changed to 16 A back in the 1950s. 13 A MCBs aren‘t particularly common in most countries but they do exist. Said oven is most likely to be connected to a 16 A circuit on the continent.

 

[ericmark]

Fuses are to protect cables; not appliances.

Not quite correct, it is for portable appliances, but fixed the manufacturer can stipulate what protection is required, for example semiconductor fuse, etc.

However, in this case, I think it is as @Ragnar_AT points out, it is simply the person writing the instructions has stated the standard size where they were taught, so 13, 15, or 16 amp would all be OK.

The

The load current in any part of the circuit should be unlikely to exceed for long periods the current-carrying capacity of the cable (Regulation 433.1.5 refers). This can generally be achieved by:
(iii) connecting cookers, ovens and hobs with a rated power exceeding 2 kW on their own dedicated radial circuit

is more concern in this situation. A 32 amp ring final can be overloaded if there is a heavy load near to one end. If the load is reasonably central, then each leg will take its share of the load, but if close to the supply, one leg can be overloaded.

 

[gavman99]

There’s no 13 A plug fuses on the continent but 13 A MCBs. No 15 A fuses either, the standard changed to 16 A back in the 1950s. 13 A MCBs aren‘t particularly common in most countries but they do exist. Said oven is most likely to be connected to a 16 A circuit on the continent.

So as per my OP, would you agree with a previous response that it’s perfectly safe to use a 13A FCU, and would you also agree that fitting a standard 13A plug is also perfectly safe to do as opposed to having to fit a FCU ?

 

[gavman99]

Also, is it possible to buy a decent plug and just put a 15A fuse in it. This obviously assumes the rules state a 15A rated appliance can be run off a standard 2.5mm T+E kitchen ring main.

 

[AndyPRK]

You cant get 15a fuses that go in plugs.

I see BEX335011M. Is a single oven.

Yea I would fit a good quality, old MK plug and plug it in.

 

[AndyPRK]

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The old one actually disapates heat better, as no sleeving on the pins.
But either are up to the job.

 

[gavman99]

Thanks. I had seen the MK toughplug suggested elsewhere. As it’s new that feels a better option versus a 2nd hand used old MK.

 

[flameport]

s it’s new that feels a better option versus a 2nd hand used old MK.

Most new 13A plugs are fine - just ensure you get one that has brass pins and certainly not silver coloured.

 

[Ragnar_AT]

So as per my OP, would you agree with a previous response that it’s perfectly safe to use a 13A FCU, and would you also agree that fitting a standard 13A plug is also perfectly safe to do as opposed to having to fit a FCU ?

Yes, I would.

 

[JohnW2]

Not quite correct, it is for portable appliances, but fixed the manufacturer can stipulate what protection is required, for example semiconductor fuse, etc.

As has been said so many times, if a manufacturer believes that their product requires protection which may be greater than that provided by the device protecting the cables which supply it, then they should provide that protection within the product.