Manufacturer says 15A fuse needed for 2.79kW oven

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Yeah.you wrap the cable around the screw in a clockwise direction.

Half way round the screw is plenty.
I’m sure you will do it fine.

The raised bit of metal traps it in place.

Ideally use this cable.

3 Core HO7RNF Rubber Flexible Cable​


1.5mm

I think b and q sell it
There’s a CEF branch 5 mins drive away and they sell this by the metre which is very handy.
 
Thanks for everyone’s help, it’s been much appreciated.

So my final setup is…..

I have 2 of these AEG single ovens with each rated at 2.79 kW.

For each oven, I’ll use 1m length of that recommended 3 core cable and then I’ll connect a 13A MK toughplug to the other end.

Each oven will be plugged into separate double sockets, both of which are part of the kitchen ring main. The spare socket on one of them will be used to power a full height integrated fridge, and the other a full height integrated freezer.

These new ovens are direct replacements for 2 hotpoint ovens rated at 2.6 kWwhich came supplied with a cable and 13A plug.




 
So my final setup is….. I have 2 of these AEG single ovens with each rated at 2.79 kW. ... For each oven, I’ll use 1m length of that recommended 3 core cable and then I’ll connect a 13A MK toughplug to the other end. .... Each oven will be plugged into separate double sockets, both of which are part of the kitchen ring main. The spare socket on one of them will be used to power a full height integrated fridge, and the other a full height integrated freezer. .... These new ovens are direct replacements for 2 hotpoint ovens rated at 2.6 kWwhich came supplied with a cable and 13A plug.
Fair enough - and, as you point out, that will be not be materially different to what you had before (which I imagine probably all worked satisfactorily for a long time).

However, primarily for the sake of others who might read this thread ion the future, I would point out that many people would regard the situation you have (and have had in the past) is far from ideal. I had forgotten that you had two of these ovens. There are plenty of people around who are not keen on one oven being supplied by a plug which is plugged in to a kitchen sockets circuit (rather than 'hard-wired'), so they presumably would be far less keen on two ovens being plugged in to one sockets circuit.

Apart from anything else, having two ovens and your fridge and freezer powered by one sockets circuit takes up a fair bit of the capacity of a 32A circuit, leaving less than many people would want for 'other things. Whilst I presume that, since you haven't mentioned them, there are no washing machines, dryers or dishwashers (I guess probably in a separate utility room, with a different sockets circuit?), most people would have things like electric kettles and toasters etc., maybe even microwave ovens/air fryers (or fat fryers), slow cookers etc. etc. that they would sometimes want to use. Whilst such additional things could theoretically 'overload' the circuit (if both ovens were 'going full pelt' at the time), it's very unlikley that any such overload would persist for long enough to result in any harm.

Kind Regards, John
 
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Would it make any material difference if, instead of putting a 13A plug on them and plugging them into a standard socket, I connected them to a 13A FCU which was in itself, also on the kitchen ring main ?

Other things of note on that circuit would be kettle, toaster, microwave and air fryer but the likelihood of all these going at same time as 2 ovens is very slim. TBH, even running 2 ovens at same time only happens 2 or 3 times a year round xmas/new year.

Dishwasher is there as well but we tend to run that overnight on a cheaper tariff. Washing machine and tumble dryer are on a different circuit in utility room.

In the event I did have loads running and I exceeded the 32A limit of the breaker on the board, would it just be a case that the breaker would trip with no damage to cables/appliances ?
 
No advantage of fcu.

Glad you aren’t putting 2 ovens into the same double socket,’as that is key.

Yes, turn something off and reset the mcb if it goes
 
Would it make any material difference if, instead of putting a 13A plug on them and plugging them into a standard socket, I connected them to a 13A FCU which was in itself, also on the kitchen ring main ?
No, as far as currents (hence potential 'overloading') is concerned, that would be no different from using plugs.
Other things of note on that circuit would be kettle, toaster, microwave and air fryer but the likelihood of all these going at same time as 2 ovens is very slim. TBH, even running 2 ovens at same time only happens 2 or 3 times a year round xmas/new year. ... Dishwasher is there as well but we tend to run that overnight on a cheaper tariff. Washing machine and tumble dryer are on a different circuit in utility room.
Fair enough.
In the event I did have loads running and I exceeded the 32A limit of the breaker on the board, would it just be a case that the breaker would trip with no damage to cables/appliances ?
Indeed - and, as I said, in practice it's most unlikely to ever happen. A 32A MCB should take about an hour to trip with about 46A flowing, and longer for lower (but greater than 32A) currents - and it's very unlikley that would ever happen. Such an MCB should never trip with currents less than about 36A.

As Andy has said, it's at least good that you don't have both opvens plugged into the same double socket (which I would definitely advise against). Similarly, however, you really would not be advised to plug any other 'fairly high current'appliances' (e..g. microwave and washing machine) into one of the double sockets supplying either of the ovens.

Kind Regards, John
 
Hi again…Evri have played a blinder and lost my MK Toughplug package. Are there are any other heavy duty alternatives you would recommend. Anything that’s on the high street such as Screwfix or Toolstation then even better. Thanks.
 
That’s out of stock. Amazon have this…

Permaplug HDPT13B

ChatGPT suggests it’s comparable to MK Toughplug. Any thoughts ?
 

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