We have definitions today which say what is a spur and what is a radial which have changed from when I started. I called a fused spur a radial, as it is a circuit in it’s own right as has it’s own over current device. But today with have fused spur, and non fused spur. We only call it a radial when the proactive device is in the distribution unit. Not a clue why the change?
But when designing an installation we have a number of considerations. For example, volt drop, ability to operate the protective device, cost, inconvenience, and many more.
So you have to consider distance, in some houses I have seen two rings split left and right side of house rather than upper and lower floor as this reduces the volt drop.
If we want the lights not to fail when a socket circuit is tripped we have to consider how to split circuits, using two RCD’s the normal way is to arrange the circuits so the lights and sockets for every room are from different RCD’s. So if the sockets have two circuits, then lights must also have two circuits unless all lights on one RCD and all sockets on the other, which would mean fault finding is a problem when there is only one RCD for all sockets.
You can use RCBO’s but that increases the cost. As to 4 mm² for radial well that depends how the cable is run. For reference method 100 4 mm² is only rated at 27 amp, so in the main it is 6 mm² for a 32A radial.
In the main the problem is when the 13A socket was designed it was designed to go with a ring final system, and once you leave that system you run into a host of problems, getting the thicker cables into the sockets is one of them, to have a 2.5 mm² ring and a spur from the ring also in 2.5 mm² is easy enough, but a 6 mm² radial with a 2.5 mm² spur one has a problem with getting the cables in the terminals although with MK it can be done, but also ensuring three cables of unequal size are clamped well enough.
The design current is also a consideration, it seems we are allowed to consider for volt drop that the design current in a ring final, or a 32A radial is 26A, that considers that 20A is drawn form centre with ring final, or end with radial, and the remaining 12A is equally drawn over the whole length. However if you reduce from 32A you still have that 20A drawn form centre with ring final, or end with radial, so the design current means with radials with 16A, 20A or 25A MCB’s they don’t have a design current allowing as much cable to be used as with a ring. Of course to a special you could select your own design current, so a 20A radial of say 30 meters could have one socket at the end, but 10 sockets near the origin, so you could design with 13A at end and rest within first 10 meters. However not likely that is really the case.
Designing a kitchen, or utility room, with tumble drier, washing machine, oven, dish washer, etc. You need to show this will not cause either too much volt drop, or regular tripping, or too much current on one end of the ring.
In the main we do the design in our head, we did a house like this before, and last time the loop impedance figures were well within, or just on the edge, so we consider splitting or combining circuits based on our experience, rather than sitting down and working it all out. With the unusual we may work it out, but rule of thumb is one reel of cable for one ring, never start a second reel and likely it will be OK.
It is hard to show that it has exceeded the volt drop, on paper we see that with an incomer of 0.35Ω we should at mid point on the ring final be getting 0.94Ω but even if 1Ω it would be hard to be 100% sure that this was due to too much cable or errors in reading. But as it gets further and further out there reaches a point where one has to concede that one has made an error and you have to compensate by making some changes.
With industrial units we have to be very careful, I had a shrink wrap machine fail to work on one socket, but was OK with other sockets, and it resulted in pulling in replacement cables. But getting caught out with domestic is rare. Even if it is wrong, who is going to find out?
The problem with a MCB is the magnetic part will either trip or not trip as the impedance increases, where with the fuse, it simply took a little longer. So with the 30A fuse (BS 1361) 1.15Ω was the figure quoted, but if exceeded then it just took slightly longer, but with a 32A MCB 1.44Ω is on the edge so volt drop could cause it to not operate on the magnetic part so we are told to reduce it to 95% of the calculated figure to ensure it is within limits, as to exceed it will reduce tripping times from 0.01 seconds to 10 seconds when the thermal part of the trip will work. This is why we have to measure the loop impedance, back in the day of the fuse, we could get away with so much more.
Where it all goes wrong is when you come to sell the house, an electrical installation condition report is done, and it fails. Or if you try and rent the house. To use 4 x 16A radials instead of 2 x 32A ring finals is all well and good if any fixed appliance over 2 kW has a dedicated circuit as recommended in the appendix. But where you use appliances not planed for then it is so easy to exceed the 16A. My sisters house had a utility room, the designer had clearly expected washing machine and tumble drier to go in the utility room, dirty cloths and food do not really mix, doing laundry in the kitchen I know was traditional, but that was when we had a washing day, food was not prepared at the same time as doing laundry. However with the clinical design of today’s washing machine, having the machine running while doing food is something we all do. Since she had a ring final putting washing machine in the kitchen was not a problem. However had she had 4 radials then that move would very likely trip the 16A MCB. In other words the radial is less flexible than the ring final.
To have a radial to every room other than kitchen and utility room does have some advantages specially using RCBO for each, a fault only effects one room. But it will cost so much more.