T&G Shed door

Jupiter01



not sure i think you mean 94x18mm rather than 28mm ??
18/19mm is a bxq/wicks/diy shed size' wood yards builders mearchants are 20.5/21mm ish
94x28 is available

Would this be a better choice for the ledge and braces?
 
Sponsored Links
Build your doors in situ, hang a concrete block on the top outside corner for a few days to let them settle then clad them. If they rub or end up to close together you can plane them down. You'll need some dummy cladding on the front of the frame so you know where to position your hinges. I had to buy some parliament hinges for mine (clad in composite cement cladding) to get over the thickness of the cladding.

I'm not a joiner and I usually find the hardest part of non conventional doors and gates is the hinges - I find that mocking up a dummy "frame/door" arrangement to check it all works is helpful.



View attachment 353924

View attachment 353925

View attachment 353926

I note you still have a nice overhang of rafters - I'd keep that - really helps with keeping the water out on shed type doors. Even the tiny "canopy" on mine makes a difference.
I was planning to use the ledge and brace format, rather than a frame. Unless I’ve misunderstood, this does not lend itself to build in situ?
 
If the opening is 1600 and I am allowing - lets say - 6mm on each side, doesn't this reduce it to 1576 and hence, 788 each door? Want to be sure of the recommended gaps. Not trying to be pedantic!
I used 5mm for ease of figures - if I was quoting sizes in imperial then I'd used 1/4inch (which is slightly over 6mm). The difference is minimal in the first place And I know from experience that a degree of final adjustment is likely to be needed.
View attachment 353850
TO BE CLEAR - I am not proposing that I frame the doors as shown in this picture. Just pointing out the central lip/overlap, that I thought was a good idea.


Doesn't this run the risk that there will be a gap in the centre of these doors and someone will be able to see through. I thought the overlap/lip in the above will prevent this and also make it easier for me to cut the doors to size. It gives me some wiggle room.
That is what I'd thought. It's not the way I'd do that though. I'd use another facing board behind the face on one leaf.
My choice is on the first door on the opening side of the door the Ledges are modified, on the face side of the ledges are reduced by the thickness of the facing board - say the last 60mm. When you get to the fixing the last 2 boards a board (with either the Tonge or Grove trimmed off) should but put into the reduced thickness of the ledge), but you may wish to fix that board just after fixing the first board. Before you fix the last narrowed board plane the saw edge smooth by around the 2mm I'd previously commented on being oversize.
If you use the same material as the Ledge's then a 'Lap Having' joint is essential to provide strength.
That will make the door edge lighter. The width of the overlap board will cut size as part of the fixing in the door aperture work.
In my earlier sketch and following the advice from @big-all, I have included a 6mm gap between the edge of the ledge and the T&G boards. I can make this 10mm if that is more appropriate.
View attachment 353851
I thought that if I set the gap between the door and frame to an appropriate distance e.g. 6-10mm, it will provide the space for expansion/contraction. Do you think it's still likely that I will need to take the door off after a year and adjust?
Never say adjustment will not be needed.
This is a new opening (two sets of double doors for two separate openings), as just about seen here:
View attachment 353852
It's got double studs for sides and the header of the door.
Your instructions here will determine where I fit the 3 horizontal braces shown in my sketch as I understand it. I can also see that you are suggesting that they are set in 7mm from the hinge edge. Again, just to make sure we are talking about the same section, I have proposed a 6mm inset in my sketch.
If you are happy with that - that's fine.
I was planning to use the 94 x 28 timbers for all braces. Let me know if you suggest otherwise.
When screwing the ledges into the T&G board, can I screw in the centre, from behind and should I insert two screws horizontally aligned? This will allow the boards to expand sideways.
I'd not screw in the centre of the boards as that means they could 'cup' away from the ledge.
Thanks for the tip on offset boards. I will look out for that!
I don't follow your instructions on nailing and is this necessary, if I put two screws into each board (through the back of the ledge, as suggested above)? Also, when pushing these boards together, should I not leave any gap for intra-board expansion?
Which is why I just push together this time of the year, in wet winter months I'd cramp up tight. If you are really concerned leave no more than a 1mm gap between each board.
Is this the diagonal braces shown in my sketch or should they be arranged differently? You can see how they relate to the hinge side and I think that this is what you are suggesting too.
You have the bracing spot-on for a door hinged on that side.
5mm is the final gap then. I may have misunderstood earlier.
Understood.
Is this the dome bolts or something else?
They are known as 'Coach Bolts' - 6mm diameter is appropriate.
The peril of reading down the passage! Screwing from the T&G board into the ledge presents a security risk as someone can unscrew and gain entry. I will screw from behind and follow your advice on the pilot hole. On screwing, is it advisable to insert two screws to each board and within 25mm of the right and left edge of each board? I was contemplating to screw each board in the centre twice (one screw above the other).
I'd not screw in the centre of the boards as that means they could 'cup' away from the ledge.
 
Thanks again. I’m almost there. Promise.
A quick one:
1. Do the ledges and associated diagonals not need to be further away from the hinge end of the door, as we need room for a door stop to fit into this gap? Currently we have a 7mm distance from the edge.

And then this…
That is what I'd thought. It's not the way I'd do that though. I'd use another facing board behind the face on one leaf.
My choice is on the first door on the opening side of the door the Ledges are modified, on the face side of the ledges are reduced by the thickness of the facing board - say the last 60mm. When you get to the fixing the last 2 boards a board (with either the Tonge or Grove trimmed off) should but put into the reduced thickness of the ledge), but you may wish to fix that board just after fixing the first board. Before you fix the last narrowed board plane the saw edge smooth by around the 2mm I'd previously commented on being oversize.
If you use the same material as the Ledge's then a 'Lap Having' joint is essential to provide strength.
That will make the door edge lighter. The width of the overlap board will cut size as part of the fixing in the door aperture work.
The door arrangement on the left (when looking from above) is how I have interpreted the above:


IMG_4396.jpeg

If yes, I will need to reduce 60mm of the 28mm brace down to 10mm (can stripe cut with chop saw and then chisel out) before I screw a 60mm section of the T&G board. I can see that this won’t require another vertical timber, as per my earlier sketch and avoid the extra weight on the door.

Have I understood this correctly?

If yes, presumably the second door needs to be as per my earlier sketch? I.e. 60mm of the 18mm board will over hang and form the other half of this lip?

Finally, if I’ve understood this correctly, how much gap should there be between the edges of these two lips to allow for expansion/contraction? Is it 6mm again?
 
Sponsored Links
Sorry for the tardy responce. Am travelling at present.
I would make up the first opening door first. The ledges should finish 20 to 25mm from the finished edge of that door.

The second opening door the ledges on the open side should finish (in lenght) around 5 to 10mm longer than the finished edge of the door face. The thickness of the brace, on the facing board side should be reduced by the thickness of the gap closing board.
The width of the closing board should be set after the doors are hung to be 5mm from the 1st opening door ledges when closed.

Each door allow the 5mm/quarter inch expansion reduction so, say, a 10mm gap max.
 
The width of the closing board should be set after the doors are hung to be 5mm from the 1st opening door ledges when closed.
Conceivably, the T&G board may extend beyond the edge of the ledge so that it is 5mm from the ledge of the first door? I guess that’s the flexibility you have when building this door second.
 
An update and a question please.
Pictures of progress attached. Thanks for all the advice once again.

There’s this door that is kicking out at the bottom. All others are fine. Wood warped perhaps. Not sure.


IMG_4507.jpegIMG_4504.jpeg

The brenton bolt will reign it in a bit but would appreciate your advice.

Thanks again.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4473.jpeg
    IMG_4473.jpeg
    483.5 KB · Views: 20
  • IMG_4475.jpeg
    IMG_4475.jpeg
    517.1 KB · Views: 19
  • IMG_4477.jpeg
    IMG_4477.jpeg
    517.4 KB · Views: 18
  • IMG_4488.jpeg
    IMG_4488.jpeg
    514.6 KB · Views: 21
Any ideas on why one of my door is kicking out at the bottom? I can’t figure out what may be causing this.

Thanks again.
 
door out off wynd [not flat and parallel]
frame out off wynd
hinge kicked out
The door and frame are flat. I have put a straight edge against them.

What do you mean by a hinge kicking out? It appears to be at the same level and alignment as all others? I could try removing it and reattaching if that helps.
 
iff your door is 100% flat and your frame is 100% flat then your only option is something pushing them out off-line with each other, this may be a hinge or other contact point like a stop "holding "or"pushing" out off line
when you close the door does it close easilly and stay there unlocked or does it spring open [hinge bound] or does it infact creak a bit and go quiet at the area it springs to often the position fitted [hinges out off line ]
 
as an aside
on the door strait edge on the diagonal looking for rocking or hollow
a strait edge prooves nothing other than the surface you are touching matches the surface in contact
also worth flipping 180 degrees as it may have a curve that matches so flipping will double the fault

you should always flip a strait edge more so iff something doesnt add up

you can visually ckeck by standing eying one edge making sure the other furthest away edge lines up exactly from top to bottom otherwise its not flat
 
Last edited:

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top