T&G Shed door

[Jupiter01]

It's a bit tricky to the diagonal straight edge as the door has hinges and the level ends up resting on the hinges. That said, the gap between the level and door (when resting on hinges seems the same). When I do this on the back of the door, I do see a very slight kick out at the bottom (same place as where I see it from the outside) but its no where near as pronounced as it looks from the outside.

Also, I don't have the door stops on yet. Can they be engineered in a way to help with this? Alternatively, I could take the door down, remove hinges and take a closer inspection?

Can you please advise.

 

[big-all]

yes common practice to use the doorstop to pull flat just means extra load on the catch or lock as you lean to put weight in to flatten it to close and to allow it to open without the "sprung load " on it

 

[Jupiter01]

yes common practice to use the doorstop to pull flat just means extra load on the catch or lock as you lean to put weight in to flatten it to close and to allow it to open without the "sprung load " on it

Ah, so if I push out the door stop from bottom right, that should pull in this bit that is kicking out on bottom left?
I can then put the upright and top door stops accordingly.

 

[big-all]

you would decide which door is faulty /bent and work round
it all depends on how your doors are secured but iff the door is a slave door then bolts top and bottom to hold in place if its the main door then push the top out by the stop to push the bottom in
sometimes you can use 2x1 or 4x1 on the back off the door spaced in the middle to draw the door slightly over sprung hoping it will settle flat

are the timbers just screwed /nailed or glued as well