Texecom Premier 24

Thanks guys.
I had a look at the zone status from the RKP and it was reporting the resistance as >65k!

All other PIRs were either 02k180 or 02k240, so that was definitely wrong.
Went back to the PIR and checked the wiring again and also that the tamper switch clicks when closing the lid. That all seemed fine.
Then, in the corner of my eye I happened to notice the jumper settings for alarm and tamper, and they were both still unset!

Popped the jumpers in to set the alarm and tamper resistance settings and when i closed the lid I immediately heard a beep from the RKP downstairs. Went down and the tamper is now gone with the resistance being reported correctly (one of those two values above, can't remember which one).

We can put this one down to user error I think :D


I just have a few more questions, with some screenshots from Wintex as additions:

The front foor (Zone 1) does not chime when it opens. I notice as I write this that it can be set using the Chime Options in the Zone config screen, right?

At the moment, Arming just Area A (Downstairs) works perfectly every time. However, when i try to arm the whole house (Area AB together), Area A will arm but Area B does not arm, it just stays with the constant beep indicating it is still in Exit mode. Do I have a timer/option set incorrectly?
Or could it be that one of the zones upstairs is still detecting some activity? All windows were shut and curtains drawn at the time of testing.


I am going to be extending the alarm panel with an 8XP-W soon, and starting off with two additional wireless zones to start with - 1 wireless PIR in the living room and 1 in the conservatory at the back of the house (behind the kitchen).
The Front door opens into the Living room, so the Living Room PIR will need to be of type Guard Access so that it does not trigger an alarm when the front door is opened, however what about when only Area A is armed and i come back downstairs to turn the alarm off?
I guess that because Entry is not occuring, if the W-PIR picks me up walking down the stairs before I reach the RKP it will trigger the alarm.
Will it best if the Living Room PIR is set in "Double Knock" mode, so that it gives me at least a few seconds to get to the RKP and disarm the system?
Default double knock appears to be 7 seconds, but i can adjust that up a bit if i need a few more seconds.


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Thanks

desig
 
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A couple of things ...yes you need to tick chime , I wouldn't use area sets for night ,all in A and tick part 1 omit for the zones off in part, you can now use silent part in area timers and options , untick confirmed reset , anticode reset for a start.

If you do it this way your radio pir set at guard access will become an entry zone in part set starts the timer to unset .
 
Also you need the setting to be timed exit not entry exit it would never set in B as it is looking for an entry door to open and close.
 
Thanks sparkymarka.
All useful pointers, and I will take a look at updating the programming this evening when I get home.
I missed that a PIR in Guard Access becomes an Entry timer for Part Armed systems, but there it was in the manual!

The Premier Elite's seem to come with a lot of options, and I hadn't had a chance to read through all of them yet. My main concern was to get the full set and part set completed first. Your idea for the Part 1 omit looks good.

I've made the following updates in Wintex ready to upload, is this correct:
Zones:
All Zones are now in Area A. Area B not used at all (the new PIRs will also go in Area A)
Zone 1 - ticked chime tone 1
Zone 4 - ticked chime tone 2 (just so it sounds different to main door)
Zones 5-8 - ticked Part 1 Omit

Areas:
unticked confirmed reset
unticked anticode reset
ticked part arm silent for Area A (though i may untick this as would prefer to hear the alarm arming the part set for area A)

Where do I need to make the change for Timed exit? Or is this no longer needed if all my zones are now in Area A with part 1 omitted?




Also one more question, is there a setting to adjust the RKP display/brightness?

It seems to me that the RKP screen/backlight is always illuminated. isn't it meant to turn off/dim at some point?

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Thanks
Desig
 
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press yes and menu on the keypad turn down the brightness on normal backlight screen.

press yes to go onto next screen press menu (retur to day mode), wait a while and it should go from the active brighter screen to the normal. Dont know what the time delay is mind.
 
Area timers left hand side it's on your screen shots , I think it's hold yes down and up and down on keypad for backlight ajustment
 
You can do it either way, I just think you have more control taking it with Yes and menu to the back light normal adjustment screen, adjust it to zero to get it looking blank, rather than using the Yes and up and down arrows.

Choice is yours
 
Thanks guys.
Going into the backlight adjustment menu was definitely easier for me, as it gave both the actual numbers for the brightness setting (so easier to see how far I had gone in changing it) but it also gave the option to change the sound when the keypad is used. I definitely find the "click" sound better than the "beep" sound!

I was also still having a bit of a problem with getting the Part set to work, though it seems like I have got myself stuck halfway between Part arm and Area configuration.
I sent a quick email to Texecom support and apparently using Area Suites and Part arm 1,2,3 at the same time is not possible. I still had my Area A in a Suite so the Part Arm option is only bringing up the Area Suite when trying to set a Part Arm.

I'll have some time on the weekend, so will tinker around and see if I can get Part Arm working properly then. My wireless PIRs will also be there by then, which means I can also fit the expander at the same time.


Thanks again for all the help

regards
desig
 
area arm suites are different to part arms.

area arm suites can be used to group areas to together and are probably little use in a domestioc situation.

if you have arm suite press part, then part again and you get to part sets.
 
Hey folks.

My USB adaptor turned up a few days ago (we've been away from home).
Quick check connecting it to the PC COM cable then into the USB of the laptop (driver install) and all seems ok with it.
Paid about the same as I would've done if I'd just purchased the USB Texecom cable in the first place...would've really liked to have constructed one myself as per the link on the last page).

Initially couldn't connect via Wintex but missed the Make Model element from the drop down menu (Elite 24 wasn't highlighted on the form). Once that was altered I could connect up to the panel.
I've placed the alarm on a separate MCB just under the consumer unit - makes it less bothersome for other family members when programming (no light circuits to take down).

I think I'll give it a good go before heading back here (highly likely) for a bit of help - hopefully I'll be able to start in the week.

Once engineers code was entered to turn off (keypad and twin alert - outdoor bell out of loop) the following alerts on the keypad are shown:

Zone 1, 2 and 5 tamper (other warning were for when the panel front was off and the battery/charger - they were rectified).
Zone 1, 2 and 5 turned out to be smoke 1, 2 and a french door.

I guess I'll ignore the above for the time being and once I start programming, hopefully I'll have a better idea (so perhaps no need to help me at the moment!).
All 4 PIR's are showing as working (visually).

This thread is quite long now, but I recall from the first couple of pages that the smokes need setting to 'always open'? I'll head back to the start and read up.
Everything else is connected dual EOL.

I'm hoping I can get it to the point where the following is programmed:

Entry Exit timed.
Downstairs night mode (I guess you would program the zones to do this for that area?).
Smokes to indicate on the TWIN Alert (not the outdoor bell!)
Chime function on the back door and french doors (not essential but perhaps handy?).
Plus the usual function of the PIRs and door magnets.

Having never done this before, it looks a little daunting but perhaps easier using the Wintex program.

I ran a spare 6 core to our bedroom with the view to placing another keypad up there in the future (again, possibly not entirely necessary).
I've also placed a CAT6 cable in the panel - will look into networking the alarm in the future too (but that's not for now!).

Should ok so far?!
Many thanks.
 
Wireless smokes are either device specific or always awake and zone type fire, this is automatic when you learn on.

hard wired you set the zone to fire, the wiring type depends on if your using resistors or not.

Chime is simple select chime 1 or 2 or 3 in wintex, in day mode press chime if the sysyem doesnt chime when opening the door and that willl turn it on.
 
Hi all
Just wanted to also mention that I got my 8XP-W wired up this weekend into my Premier elite 24, with 2 wireless PIRs so far. Additional devices won't be added until we have renovated the kitchen next year.

Had a few slight issues with the addition of the expander causing COM GSM to report failures. In the end a factory reset of the panel with a reload of settings from Wintex was the order for the day.

I now also have Area Arm Suites completely removed, with Part Arm now working perfectly, including with the wireless PIR in the Living Room working as Guard Access for normal arm and Entry/Exit 2 for Part Arm.

Thanks to everyone on this thread for all the useful comments and suggestions, they were definitely a great help in getting my alarm set up and going in minimal time. In fact I think the only reason it took me as long as it did was running cabling through and not being able to test the alarm in the late evenings.

Northbeach, I don't have any experience with smoke alarms, but I have used Wintex to configure everything on my panel. If you need any help just shout!


desig
 
The addition of your 8xp-w caused problems gsm com failures?

I am interested to know what the messages were for reference.

The gsm com module as switch 4 I think to do with reporting when in tamper or not (would have to check the manual to confirm that though).

Adding an expander should not cause a failure other than possibly the tamper issue above possibly, unless the xp-w was close to the gsm unit or aerial.

Factory resetting seems extreme, often a soft reset by turn the unit to not fitted and back on again can reset it.

At least a full wintex profile saved, made it easier to reload the panel with your settings.
 
Hi secureiam,

Not sure why it was causing the errors, but that seemed to be the case.
I fitted the 8XP-W on Saturday afternoon (admittedly, it was fitted while the system was live and in Engineer mode, and not while it was powered down), but it was initially fitted with the wireless PIRs synced with no issue.
Then, about 2 hours after I had completed working on the alarm the keypad gave out a random beep. Went to check and the keypad was reporting 3 errors:
- ATS Path Fault
- Engineer Reset or Service message (can't remember which of the two)
- A third message, though I cannot remember if it was related to com port or ATS again


The ATS Path Fault was sufficient that I could not set the alarm, though I think that was because my Area A was not configured to arm with ATS faults at the time.

When I connected up via Wintex the System Status diagnostic dashboard (the screen with red lights for errors) had a red LED showing for the following:
ATS Path Fault
Com 2 Fault (GSM COM is on Com2, with Com1 used for the USB COM when I want to connect up to Wintex)
Com 2 no signal
Com Port Fault
No ATS Available

The Onboard Comms screen was also showing the GSM COM signal as red and -113Db, this is usually in the -80 range (It's usually the closer to -90 the better right? or is that just WiFi signals)

I tried doing the following, and none of these worked:
- The wire for the COM GSM and 8XP-W were originally crossing over each other as they entered the panel, so I separated these out in case there was some "noise" being generated across the cables. I didn't think this was likely though, as there was no issue with the 8XP-W in any way.
- Toggled Option Switch 4 on the COM GSM, which is meant to reset the unit.
- Set Com Port 2 to not in use, and back on again.
- Power down the COM GSM and then connect it back again
- I even tried unsetting Com Port 2 and attaching the COM GSM to Com Port 1. Again no change, other than to light up all the Com Port 1 LED's in the diagnostic screen as with fault.

One other thing that was consistently happening was status LED 3 was flashing for marginal signal, which didn't normally happen.

In the end I saved the settings back to use Com Port 2, and prepared for factory reset (power off mains, disconnect battery [bellbox started going off], held down load defaults button, reconnected battery and kickstarted the panel) Once I confirmed all was ok I reconnected the mains

No more faults being reported by the system.
I have now also allowed Arming with an ATS fault, and also increased the ATS Fault delay to 5 minutes (incase the issue was being caused by temporary loss of signal.


Also, how far apart should the 8XP-W and COM GSM be kept from each other? as Both are under the stairs and limited in how far I can connect them from the panel (COM GSM came with a fixed length connector), at the moment there is probably about 30cm space between the two (they are both above the control panel with basically the width of the control panel gap between them)
The aerial for the COM GSM then runs in the opposite direction from the 8XP-W and is hung up.


The only reason I tried the factory reset at the time was because I knew I had a complete Wintex profile saved.
 
Wireless smokes are either device specific or always awake and zone type fire, this is automatic when you learn on.

hard wired you set the zone to fire, the wiring type depends on if your using resistors or not.

Chime is simple select chime 1 or 2 or 3 in wintex, in day mode press chime if the sysyem doesnt chime when opening the door and that willl turn it on.

Many thanks - I'll take my time and give it a good shot. I'm probably making up problems before I have any, although the last few posts on here suggest it won't be an easy ride programming it!
I'll leave the modem/networking stuff for another time, but I'll probably find it a good idea sooner rather than later.

Smokes are indeed hard wired - just to reiterate an earlier post:

photo1-1-1.jpg


That is the smoke alarm I'm using - wired up, no resistors here. From earlier advice I'll be wiring both of the smokes as 'normally closed'?

Many thanks!
 

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