Cheers - aye, please keep an eye out on this thread as my attempts to program the system don't go as smoothly as planned
Cheers.
Texecom Premier 24
- Thread starter Northbeach
- Start date
Cheers - aye, please keep an eye out on this thread as my attempts to program the system don't go as smoothly as planned
Cheers.
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theres two people asking questions on the same thread makes it a little difficult.
Okay I am guessing with the GSM all the changes were done within a couple of minutes?
Sounds like the signal was lost, that could be tower undergoing a test but this is short lived usually.
distance apart, the width of the panel should be far enough apart from experience, however the aerials should be at least one open hand width away from the metal enclosure (if the panel is in the metal enclosure). You may get away with less but its easy to measure a open hand width and has served me well.
For the smokes to work when the system is unset, make sure unarmed firecoms is turned on in area options for the areas the smokes are in.
-113 is no signal, the true cause appears unknown at this moment in time, set with no ats is useful as at least you can arm the panel with the fault.
if your not using resistors are you utilising a tamper for the fire zone? if yes it be double pole/eol if not it be normally closed, there are diagrams in the manuals.
Okay I am guessing with the GSM all the changes were done within a couple of minutes?
Sounds like the signal was lost, that could be tower undergoing a test but this is short lived usually.
distance apart, the width of the panel should be far enough apart from experience, however the aerials should be at least one open hand width away from the metal enclosure (if the panel is in the metal enclosure). You may get away with less but its easy to measure a open hand width and has served me well.
For the smokes to work when the system is unset, make sure unarmed firecoms is turned on in area options for the areas the smokes are in.
-113 is no signal, the true cause appears unknown at this moment in time, set with no ats is useful as at least you can arm the panel with the fault.
if your not using resistors are you utilising a tamper for the fire zone? if yes it be double pole/eol if not it be normally closed, there are diagrams in the manuals.
Agree - it is getting a little confusing (certainly if you're helping out answering differing queries on the same system).
Perhaps a mod can split the thread and the last couple of pages relating to the modem issues can have a separate post? I'm happy for all the input on this thread (as I'll no doubt come across similar issues in later programming stages) but if it's proving confusing to contributors then it might be best split.
I'll look out for the 'unarmed firecoms' option in Wintex.
As for the wiring, I did it this way (as advised on the first page of this thread):
Presume that means I'm using tamper, but not double pole/EOL (as per all the PIR's and Door Contacts)?
Many thanks.
Perhaps a mod can split the thread and the last couple of pages relating to the modem issues can have a separate post? I'm happy for all the input on this thread (as I'll no doubt come across similar issues in later programming stages) but if it's proving confusing to contributors then it might be best split.
I'll look out for the 'unarmed firecoms' option in Wintex.
As for the wiring, I did it this way (as advised on the first page of this thread):
Presume that means I'm using tamper, but not double pole/EOL (as per all the PIR's and Door Contacts)?
Many thanks.
Unfortunatley you are not using any tamper.
You have a pair for power and a pair for alarm only.
I would use resistors, place 4k7 between A and B, and from B to C 2k2
connect to a and c back to the panel and use double pole/eol.
Is there more than 1 smoke detector on the zone?
Just let me know and I will advise of the wiring and placement of resistors, if you don't have any spare 4k7 and 2k2, you should have some 3k3 resistors and you can swap both the 4k7 and the 2k2 for 3k3's instead. You should have a set of all these.
If you have already wired this to the panel, all you need to do is put the resistors in and move wire in B going back to panel to C.
You have a pair for power and a pair for alarm only.
I would use resistors, place 4k7 between A and B, and from B to C 2k2
connect to a and c back to the panel and use double pole/eol.
Is there more than 1 smoke detector on the zone?
Just let me know and I will advise of the wiring and placement of resistors, if you don't have any spare 4k7 and 2k2, you should have some 3k3 resistors and you can swap both the 4k7 and the 2k2 for 3k3's instead. You should have a set of all these.
If you have already wired this to the panel, all you need to do is put the resistors in and move wire in B going back to panel to C.
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Ok - not quite sure why I didn't go ahead and wire up with resistors/tampers in the first place - is it preferable to wire the smokes up this way?
I have a load of 4k7 and 2k2 resistors (had to finish wiring door contacts with them a week or so back).
As for zones, I presume Zone A would be downstairs (in my instance) and Zone B upstairs (enabling me to turn Zone A on at night?).
If so, then one smoke in Zone A and one (upstairs landing) Zone B.
Yes - all wired up. Aux Zone 1 and 2 have the smokes (A and B) wired to them.
So - now just a case (once resistors are in) to remove panel wire going to B in smoke to C?
Many thanks!
EDIT - Just to add: does adding resistors/tampers into the smokes alter the way they will function i.e. I simply need them 'on' all the time (whether the alarm is alarmed or off (when at home)?
You can link them together if you wanted, just if you do that you have to have the one 2k2 resistor.
Personally if you have the space I would keep them on seperate zones and they can still be area A on both if you want.
The wiring should not change the function of the unit, unless they were linked together and you was using the latch terminal to indicate which one was activated.
at the detector end in the base put the resistors in and move the wire from B to C that goes back to the panel.
area options unarmed firecoms makes the detectors trigger an audible alarm when the system is unset.
Personally if you have the space I would keep them on seperate zones and they can still be area A on both if you want.
The wiring should not change the function of the unit, unless they were linked together and you was using the latch terminal to indicate which one was activated.
at the detector end in the base put the resistors in and move the wire from B to C that goes back to the panel.
area options unarmed firecoms makes the detectors trigger an audible alarm when the system is unset.
Ahh of course. I was thinking that as they were in 'physically' different zones (A downstairs, B upstairs) they would have to be programmed as different zones, but rightly so they can be on the same zone.
Didn't use latch as initially advised, so I'll just follow your new method - set both to double pole/EOL rather than 'normally closed' now right?
Smokes have much more room to add resistors than those tiny door contacts!
Will set smoke areas to unarmed firecoms. I presume once programmed these smokes will alarm when detecting smoke/fire either when the system is alarmed (we're out of the house) or when we are in the house?
Just before I give this a start this evening, is it easy enough to let the panel/wintex know that one of the PIR's (above the main entrance) is not connected to one of the 8 zones (all used up) but via the spare Aux in the keypad?
Huge thanks!!
Didn't use latch as initially advised, so I'll just follow your new method - set both to double pole/EOL rather than 'normally closed' now right?
Smokes have much more room to add resistors than those tiny door contacts!
Will set smoke areas to unarmed firecoms. I presume once programmed these smokes will alarm when detecting smoke/fire either when the system is alarmed (we're out of the house) or when we are in the house?
Just before I give this a start this evening, is it easy enough to let the panel/wintex know that one of the PIR's (above the main entrance) is not connected to one of the 8 zones (all used up) but via the spare Aux in the keypad?
Huge thanks!!
if using wintex.(easiest)
The keypad zone is mapped in keypads, Keypad zones & volume.
if using the keypad,
get into engineering, 4 for keypad setup, yes to select, yes until you get to mapping, no type in the mapped zone number (not already in use and can be any number from first zone number to the last) press.
You will still need to program the zone in the zone menu.
The keypad zone is mapped in keypads, Keypad zones & volume.
if using the keypad,
get into engineering, 4 for keypad setup, yes to select, yes until you get to mapping, no type in the mapped zone number (not already in use and can be any number from first zone number to the last) press.
You will still need to program the zone in the zone menu.
Definitely using Wintex!
I ploughed through the manual the other night, but it seems a large proportion of it was dedicated to modem install/programming.
I don't really want to look into that until a much later date.
I'd already connected up so I'm half way there I suppose.
The keypad was flashing zone 1, 2 and 5 tamper. Zone 1 and 2 are the smokes (i'll deal with them as per your method) but zone 5 is a french door...not quite sure (yet) why that was highlighted as a tamper issue.
Is the Keypad Aux easily identifiable as a zone (not being one of the panels provided 8 zones)?
Cheers.
I ploughed through the manual the other night, but it seems a large proportion of it was dedicated to modem install/programming.
I don't really want to look into that until a much later date.
I'd already connected up so I'm half way there I suppose.
The keypad was flashing zone 1, 2 and 5 tamper. Zone 1 and 2 are the smokes (i'll deal with them as per your method) but zone 5 is a french door...not quite sure (yet) why that was highlighted as a tamper issue.
Is the Keypad Aux easily identifiable as a zone (not being one of the panels provided 8 zones)?
Cheers.
If you are in front of the system I can go through this with you.
pm me when your ready.
pm me when your ready.
Hi - I'll drop you a PM....
Couldn't find the send message form - presume you now have to 'add friends' before I can do that (request sent)?
click on message at top of screen, then on right hand side compose new message anyone can send me messages and thats not an open offer.
Might have been my messages options (friends only) - changed that and hopefully you'll receive the PM!
Cheers.
Cheers.
Just before I go any further, here's a pic of the french door contact (the white block type):
This is the only zone showing an issue when the alarm is turned on (having not yet programmed it): "Zone 5 tamper"
Checked wiring at the panel and all seems ok so perhaps an issue with the way this is wired (resistors don't appear to be touching any of the wiring inside the contact).
Blue to silver contact connected by 2k2 resistor connected onto brass screw.
Yellow to other brass screw connected by 4k7 resistor connected onto other silver screw.
Anything appear amiss?
Cheers!
This is the only zone showing an issue when the alarm is turned on (having not yet programmed it): "Zone 5 tamper"
Checked wiring at the panel and all seems ok so perhaps an issue with the way this is wired (resistors don't appear to be touching any of the wiring inside the contact).
Blue to silver contact connected by 2k2 resistor connected onto brass screw.
Yellow to other brass screw connected by 4k7 resistor connected onto other silver screw.
Anything appear amiss?
Cheers!
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