Unlevel door lining

[Keitai]

£64? Yikes! The idea was to do this on the cheap. Just add this lot up...

Granite pastry board or piece of thick (12mm plus) float glass with the edges, "safed" - £15

Selection of wet and dry (silicon carbide) papers (£5 to £8 from Halfords or off Amazon) - £5 to £8

Spray adhesive (Poundshop) - £1

Low cost honing guide, e.g Draper, etc - £5 to £8

3-in-1 oil or sewing machine oil (Poundshop although as a handyman I'd have thought you'd have had this) - £1

I make that £26 to £30.

For a start, as an absolute beginner working on your own you really don't want to go the figure of 8 route, simply because you'll end up rounding the blade over and/or getting the edge out of square to the side of the blade. I've taught enough apprentices to know that 2 out of 3 cock it up first time round (meaning that I've needed to grind it straight and start them again). In any case, figure of 8 will quite probably rip your abrasive papers to pieces - the technique is for use with sharpening stones or diamond plates. So I strongly recommend that to start with you stick with the "training wheels"

You might want to consider a Norton IB8 8x2x1in combination oilstone (100x/320x grits) or similar (don't buy cheap Chinese carp and avoid waterstones), but remember that milestones hollow over time and as a beginner you have enough to concern yourself with.

Found these-

Is the spray adhesive for spraying on surface before honing? What's the 3 - 1 for as well?

There was a warning about selling to under 18s for adhesive, is it dangerous to inhale require a mask or gloves when using (why such a warning)?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonse...9S8f_O942ecpvY4FdvBoCl1AQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I'll buy the setting device and just push the chisel or blade back and forth to sharpen it I guess not too much to it than that.

My Jack plane and block plane although work are jolty and either take off but too much to nothing and blade gets pushed back inside...really want to get sharp too. Will practice honing on an old chisel first though

 

[lostinthelight]

Forget that marble board and use a piece of glass on a flat surface for now

 

[Keitai]

Forget that marble board and use a piece of glass on a flat surface for now

How about just this for now?



My local hardware guy will have it in tomorrow . I'll practice on a old chisel I guess. How hard to you press down when pushing back and forwards

Got to get my planes sharp. I'm destroying doors with my electric one I need the gentle touch

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Is the spray adhesive for spraying on surface before honing? What's the 3 - 1 for as well?

The spray adhesive is to attach the abrasive sheets to the pastry board, glass or whatever surface you are using. If you don't use it you are going to find the stuff may want to slide all over the place. Far cheaper to use spray adhesive and low cost silicon carbide paper than to buy PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive backed) abrasive sheets

3-in-1 oil? Really? If you have watched any videos on sharpening (other than dry grinding on a bench grinder) you should have noticed the operative adding a small amount of oil to the abrasive before, and at intervals during, the sharpening process. This helps float off the tiny particles on metal which sharpening releases from the edge of the tool and helps to prevent the abrasive from clogging up prematurely. Do not skimp. It is necessary. NEVER use water except if you are using Japanese waterstones (don"t go there yet, either - learn to walk before you can run!)

There was a warning about selling to under 18s for adhesive, is it dangerous to inhale require a mask or gloves when using (why such a warning)?

Probably because it contains a small amount of solvent

I'll buy the setting device and just push the chisel or blade back and forth to sharpen it I guess not too much to it than that.

It's actually pretty simple. There is a little more to it than that (more in terms of plane fettling than anything) but this way you'll at least get the basics

On the subject of glass, IMHO any old piece of window glass won't do - it needs to be float glass (which has a perfectly flat surface) - although to be fair since the late 1980s even plate glass in the UK has been made with the float glass process, althougj old window glass might not be float glass and therefore not particularly flat (rolled glass, the older process was pretty variable). The reason I recommend thicker glass is that it is more stable and less likely to crack than the thin stuff if placed on a slightly uneven surface - 4 to 6mm window glass may need to be fixed to two layers of 18mm plywood (glued together) to avoid cracking if too much pressure is applied - hence the pastry board alternatives (and neither will heavy plate glass crack on a slightly uneven surface). Glass needs to be handled with care; unless specified window glass often comes with a sharp edge which can cut flesh easily if you are unfortunate enough to have an accident - glass merchants can "safe" the edges or even polish and bevel them, but this is often an on cost and must be specified at time of ordering

 

[Deleted member 174758]

How about just this for now?

What grit is that stone? It may work, but often these single stone sets have nasty abrasive which clog quickly and are too low a grit number to hone to a sharp enough edge to take a thin shaving. OK for rough work - only a door isn't rough work

The grit you need to take nicks out of a cutter edge is a lower number than that which you need to sharpen and hone a cutter - remember the Norton combi stone grits?

 

[Keitai]

What grit is that stone? It may work, but often these single stone sets have nasty abrasive which clog quickly and are too low a grit number to hone to a sharp enough edge to take a thin shaving. OK for rough work - only a door isn't rough work

The grit you need to take nicks out of a cutter edge is a lower number than that which you need to sharpen and hone a cutter - remember the Norton combi stone grits?

Not sure on grit number of that honing stone I just googled it.



Bought or already had the stuff in photo- I found some 7 or 8mm thick glass in my shed. I've got 180, 320 and 1200 wet and dry silicone carbide paper. Which one do glue to glass?

Noticed Trend have a £50 sharpener. It's new, no reviews.

 

[lostinthelight]

Noticed Trend have a £50 sharpener. It's new, no reviews

You won't learn anything using it but may be Ok to recover a c0ck up whilst learning the traditional method I guess.

 

[EddieM]

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I've got this device which sets the perfect angle to hone and u push it forward and backwards with that.

I think I drilled too big a hole for the bolt through screws after not getting them lined up , the handle is now on the ****. Not straight as u can see. Anyway to rectify that?

Apologies in advance, but your posts / attempts at stuff do make me smile. I can never work out if you're actually winding us all up. How do you manage to get it that cock eyed?

 

[Keitai]

Apologies in advance, but your posts / attempts at stuff do make me smile. I can never work out if you're actually winding us all up. How do you manage to get it that cock eyed?

Dont post all the good stuff just cockups. What will I learn from posting something decent

 

[Deleted member 174758]

If you haven't figured it out yet, Eddie he's either testing us - or he's my alter ego and I'm having a larf..

I found some 7 or 8mm thick glass in my shed. I've got 180, 320 and 1200 wet and dry silicone carbide paper. Which one do glue to glass?

Is it float glass? If not it won't be flat and will cause more problems than it will solve. If it is float glass make sure that the edges are "safed" or bevelled so that there in no sharp edge which can slice your fingers open. If you can't do that, don't use it. If it is useable it will need to be supported on a piece of thick MDF or plywood (two layers of 12 or 18mm offcut glued together would be great).

Silicon carbide or wet and dry (dark grey) is the right stuff but I'd suggest getting a sheet each of 120, 240 and 600 grit (500 grit will do) as well. Cut (from the back or it will wreck your blade PDQ) or rip into strips and glue strips of around 10 to 12in (250 to 300mm) x 3in (75mm) wide side by side onto the glass using spray adhesive. Going left to right I'd have 120, 180, 240, 320 and 600 grit (15in or 375mm wide in total). That will mean for sharpening goosed blades you can start by honing on 120 grit, then moving to 180 grit and working up through the grits to 600 grit. You need to wipe off the edge of the blade with a piece of cotton rag or kitchen towel every time you go up a grit. You also need to spray or dribble some light oil on the abrasive paper before using it and if it starts to clog or gondry ad a little bit more. Do not dry grind as it will clog the paper double quick and ruin it. To check progress you can blacken the bevelled edge of the iron with a black felt tip marker. When you sharpen you will see the black disappear where you've ground and shiny metal appear. You will find the most work will be necessary on the lowest grit numbers with progressively less strokes required on the higher grit numbers to achieve a good surface. Start by trying to get a good single bevel first - secondary levels can come later

Noticed Trend have a £50 sharpener. It's new, no reviews.

I've heard various stories about the mk.1 version of this tool, not all good because of difficulties in getting the darned things to give you an edge which was square to the side of the blade.

 

[EddieM]

If you haven't figured it out yet, Eddie he's either testing us - or he's my alter ego and I'm having a larf..

You mean a bit like accomplished pianist Les Dawson's comedic piano playing. viz, you have to be good to sound that bad.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

You mean to say that Les was having a larf, too? At least he got all the right notes, but not necessarily in the right order, as Eric Morecambe might have said

 

[Keitai]

If you haven't figured it out yet, Eddie he's either testing us - or he's my alter ego and I'm having a larf..

You're having a larf!


Is it float glass? If not it won't be flat and will cause more problems than it will solve. If it is float glass make sure that the edges are "safed" or bevelled so that there in no sharp edge which can slice your fingers open. If you can't do that, don't use it. If it is useable it will need to be supported on a piece of thick MDF or plywood (two layers of 12 or 18mm offcut glued together would be great).

Silicon carbide or wet and dry (dark grey) is the right stuff but I'd suggest getting a sheet each of 120, 240 and 600 grit (500 grit will do) as well. Cut (from the back or it will wreck your blade PDQ) or rip into strips and glue strips of around 10 to 12in (250 to 300mm) x 3in (75mm) wide side by side onto the glass using spray adhesive. Going left to right I'd have 120, 180, 240, 320 and 600 grit (15in or 375mm wide in total). That will mean for sharpening goosed blades you can start by honing on 120 grit, then moving to 180 grit and working up through the grits to 600 grit. You need to wipe off the edge of the blade with a piece of cotton rag or kitchen towel every time you go up a grit. You also need to spray or dribble some light oil on the abrasive paper before using it and if it starts to clog or gondry ad a little bit more. Do not dry grind as it will clog the paper double quick and ruin it. To check progress you can blacken the bevelled edge of the iron with a black felt tip marker. When you sharpen you will see the black disappear where you've ground and shiny metal appear. You will find the most work will be necessary on the lowest grit numbers with progressively less strokes required on the higher grit numbers to achieve a good surface. Start by trying to get a good single bevel first - secondary levels can come later


I've heard various stories about the mk.1 version of this tool, not all good because of difficulties in getting the darned things to give you an edge which was square to the side of the blade.

You're having a laugh


No idea if that piece of glass from my garage is float- I'll order this to be sure- gotta be right stuff?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Completely...900&psc=1&ref_=d6k_applink_bb_dls_failed&th=1

 

[Why Not Indeed]

All the right pieces of timber, just not in the right order.

 

[EddieM]

Sometimes I think I could do it better with a hammer and.......


no, let's just leave it at hammer.