Unlevel door lining

[Deleted member 174758]

No idea if that piece of glass from my garage is float- I'll order this to be sure -

Pastry board might be cheaper? Whatever you get it must be perfectly flat. If you reduce the width of your abrasive paper strips to about 60mm you can get 5 on a 300mm wide base side by side (120, 180, 240, 320 and 600 grits). The strips need to be wide enough to accommodate your jack plane blade (2in/50mm? for a 2-3/8in/60mm iron you really need 70 to 75mm wide strips)

 

[^woody^]

Seems a bit of a palaver. Just get two or three cheap diamond plates of various grades, a piece of leather the same size and stick them to a thick piece of ply with double sided tape. Water for lubricant.

Or just a standard oil stone.

I can't image that the quality work produced by past carpenters relied on a "scary sharp" system ie what happened before YouTube?

 

[Keitai]

If you haven't figured it out yet, Eddie he's either testing us - or he's my alter ego and I'm having a larf..


Is it float glass? If not it won't be flat and will cause more problems than it will solve. If it is float glass make sure that the edges are "safed" or bevelled so that there in no sharp edge which can slice your fingers open. If you can't do that, don't use it. If it is useable it will need to be supported on a piece of thick MDF or plywood (two layers of 12 or 18mm offcut glued together would be great).

Silicon carbide or wet and dry (dark grey) is the right stuff but I'd suggest getting a sheet each of 120, 240 and 600 grit (500 grit will do) as well. Cut (from the back or it will wreck your blade PDQ) or rip into strips and glue strips of around 10 to 12in (250 to 300mm) x 3in (75mm) wide side by side onto the glass using spray adhesive. Going left to right I'd have 120, 180, 240, 320 and 600 grit (15in or 375mm wide in total). That will mean for sharpening goosed blades you can start by honing on 120 grit, then moving to 180 grit and working up through the grits to 600 grit. You need to wipe off the edge of the blade with a piece of cotton rag or kitchen towel every time you go up a grit. You also need to spray or dribble some light oil on the abrasive paper before using it and if it starts to clog or gondry ad a little bit more. Do not dry grind as it will clog the paper double quick and ruin it. To check progress you can blacken the bevelled edge of the iron with a black felt tip marker. When you sharpen you will see the black disappear where you've ground and shiny metal appear. You will find the most work will be necessary on the lowest grit numbers with progressively less strokes required on the higher grit numbers to achieve a good surface. Start by trying to get a good single bevel first - secondary levels can come later


I've heard various stories about the mk.1 version of this tool, not all good because of difficulties in getting the darned things to give you an edge which was square to the side of the blade.[/Q

If you haven't figured it out yet, Eddie he's either testing us - or he's my alter ego and I'm having a larf..


Is it float glass? If not it won't be flat and will cause more problems than it will solve. If it is float glass make sure that the edges are "safed" or bevelled so that there in no sharp edge which can slice your fingers open. If you can't do that, don't use it. If it is useable it will need to be supported on a piece of thick MDF or plywood (two layers of 12 or 18mm offcut glued together would be great).

Silicon carbide or wet and dry (dark grey) is the right stuff but I'd suggest getting a sheet each of 120, 240 and 600 grit (500 grit will do) as well. Cut (from the back or it will wreck your blade PDQ) or rip into strips and glue strips of around 10 to 12in (250 to 300mm) x 3in (75mm) wide side by side onto the glass using spray adhesive. Going left to right I'd have 120, 180, 240, 320 and 600 grit (15in or 375mm wide in total). That will mean for sharpening goosed blades you can start by honing on 120 grit, then moving to 180 grit and working up through the grits to 600 grit. You need to wipe off the edge of the blade with a piece of cotton rag or kitchen towel every time you go up a grit. You also need to spray or dribble some light oil on the abrasive paper before using it and if it starts to clog or gondry ad a little bit more. Do not dry grind as it will clog the paper double quick and ruin it. To check progress you can blacken the bevelled edge of the iron with a black felt tip marker. When you sharpen you will see the black disappear where you've ground and shiny metal appear. You will find the most work will be necessary on the lowest grit numbers with progressively less strokes required on the higher grit numbers to achieve a good surface. Start by trying to get a good single bevel first - secondary levels can come later


I've heard various stories about the mk.1 version of this tool, not all good because of difficulties in getting the darned things to give you an edge which was square to the side of the blade.

Glued on the 180, 240, 320 and 600 grits. Didn't have 120 so I guess that's needed too or could start on 180

Grey granite worktop saver from dunelm- £15. The 600 grit had a few creases but mostly ironed out. I guess if needs replacing metal scraper to take off adhesive.

With the setting device it wasnt apparent which way round anyway I let it drop so it was touching the ground but not too much to take wheels off but so when u pulled it towards yourself the wheels rotated dragging the backend. How else can u use it? I then slid an old chisel into the groove at this angle until it was touching the wet and dry and pulled it towards myself not pushing away. Put planer blade in too, but read it was supposed to be honed at 38 degrees or 30 for chisels so didn't hone it until I've checked I'm doing it right. What do u think Eddie?

Out of interest, what's the difference between this wet/dry paper to normal decorating sand paper of a similar grit?

 

[lostinthelight]

Isnt there an instruction on the side of your gauge to tell you how much to project the blade for each angle

 

[Keitai]

View attachment 220451 Isnt there an instruction on the side of your gauge to tell you how much to project the blade for each angle

. I'll double check. Didn't see anything.

30mm for chisel and 38mm for planer. Thxs

 

[lostinthelight]

. I'll double check. Didn't see anything.

30mm for chisel and 38mm for planer. Thxs

You should 2 measurements for each blade cos you've got 2 angles on each.
Chisel in the lower. plane in the upper part.

 

[Keitai]

You should 2 measurements for each blade cos you've got 2 angles on each.
Chisel in the lower. plane in the upper part.

2 angles? Honed part of blade is just one angle i think. Dont u decide if u want either 25 degrees or 30 then set to that. I'm not sure TBH

 

[lostinthelight]

If you sharpen at one angle, every time you do further sharpening you'd be grinding the whole surface area down.
By initially grinding at 25° ,then sharpening at 30° your only removing a small amount of metal so its faster.
After numerous sharpening you have to regrind back to 25° again and sharpen to 30..and so it goes on.

Dont u decide if u want either 25 degrees 30 then s

 

[Keitai]

If you sharpen at one angle, every time you do further sharpening you'd be grinding the whole surface area down.
By initially grinding at 25° ,then sharpening at 30° your only removing a small amount of metal so its faster.
After numerous sharpening you have to regrind back to 25° again and sharpen to 30..and so it goes on.

So alternate between 25 and 30 when honing/sharpening - 25,30,25,30,25 etc each time until it needs grinding I guess

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Glued on the 180, 240, 320 and 600 grits. Didn't have 120 so I guess that's needed too or could start on 180

120 grit would be the starting point if your chisels are completely fubarred. 180 grit will be OK as a starting point, but if your edges ar bad or badly chipped it will take a lot longer to sharpen to an edge. Low grit number = large grit size = coarse surface = faster removal of metal.

Grey granite worktop saver from dunelm- £15. The 600 grit had a few creases but mostly ironed out. I guess if needs replacing metal scraper to take off adhesive.

Yes, bit of white spirits (or better still lighter fluid or Evostik solvent) to soften the glue bond then peel off. Use a scraper if required. BTW, it is a "when" not an "if" it will wear out

Didn't have 120 so planer blade in too but read it was supposed to be honed at 38 degrees or 30 for chisels so didn't hone it until I've checked I'm doing it right.

The general use sharpening angle for plane (NOT planer , that is a power tool!) iron is 25° (extension 50mm), secondary bevel or honing angle is 30° (extension 38mm). Plane irons are clamped in the upper pair of jaws and the extension is measured from the body on the end of the jig with the squared top.

The general use sharpening angle for chisels is 25° (extension 40mm), secondary bevel or honing angle is 30° (extension 30mm). Chisels are clamped in the lower pair of jaws facing the opposite direction to plane irons and the extension is measured from the body on the end of the jig with the rounded top.

I think you have confused extension with angle.

The main task is to grind the edges by working up through the grits. The honing bit, or secondary bevel production, should only produce a tiny 1 to 2mm secondary bevel the first time it is produced. Start this one with the 320 grit, then the 600 grit but only after working up through all the grits at the grinding angle. The iron or chisel can often be honed 3 or 4 times, sometimes more (probably only 5 or 6 passes on the abrasive each time), to "touch up" the edge between major sharpenings if you use this primary grinding angle/secondary honing angle approach

Out of interest, what's the difference between this wet/dry paper to normal decorating sand paper of a similar grit?

Wet and dry paper (otherwise known as silicon carbide paper) uses the abrasive silicone on carbide. This is a hard abrasive which is not particularly durable. That makes it faster cutting and more durable than the abrasives used for paint and wood. The downside is that it clogs relatively easily, hence the need for quantities of lubricant (in this case light oil, like 3-in -1)

The abrasives used for decorating are most often either aluminium oxide or garnet. These abrasives are relatively variable, i.e the abrasive particles shatter quite readily. That in turn means that sharp edges are constantly being generated on the paper, meaning that on softer materials such wood or plaster can be sanded fairly quickly. The downside of all this is that the abrasive wears out very quickly when used on materials such as steel.

Edit: I wrote up the use of the jaws the wrong wayvround. Corrected. Sorry for any confusion. JnK

 

[Deleted member 174758]

So alternate between 25 and 30 when honing/sharpening - 25,30,25,30,25 etc each time until it needs grinding I guess

No!!! Please read my previous post

You need to produce the grinding angle first by working through the grits with the blade clamped in the jig. The secondary bevel produced at the honing angle is only a couple of millimetres wide and is added after grinding of the primary bevel is complete. If you have ground at the appropriate angle primary bevel working through the grits up to 600 grit, a 1 or 2mm secondary bevel can be produced very quickly with 320 then 600 grits only. NO NEED TO WORK UP THROUGH THE GRITS On THE SECONDARY BEVEL. Swapping angles back and forth between grinding and honing through all the grits is completely bloody pointless! (Not to mention a frustration waste of time and effort and very prone to inducing error)

 

[Keitai]

No!!! Please read my previous post

You need to produce the grinding angle first by working through the grits with the blade clamped in the jig. The honing angle is only a couple of millimetres wide and is produced at the end of grinding. If you have ground at the appropriate angle up to 600 grit a 1 or 2mm secondary bevel can be produced very quickly with 320 then 600 grits only. NO NEED TO WORK UP THROUGH THE GRITS. Swapping angles back and forth between grinding and honing through all the grits is completely bloody pointless! (Not to mention a frustration waste of time and effort)

Got it. Thxs. I used to think that the 25 degree (grinding angle) could only be made by using an electric grinding machine then what I now know to be 30 degree angle -the honing/sharpening edge (1-2mm) which is the sharp bit was produced on the stone with grits. But now I know both are produced on the stone by hand and no electric grinder needed.

I guess electric grinding stone is only used when chisel is dented or lopsided and needs serious grinding back.

So everytime I sharpen chisel - do 25 degree first then finish off with 30 degree angle. Not just 30 degree small bevel (end 2mm).

 

[lostinthelight]

I wouldn't use an electric grinder

 

[Keitai]

.[/QUOTE]
Plane irons are clamped in the lower pair of jaws and the extension is measured from the body on the end of the jig with the rounded top.

The general use sharpening angle for chisels is 25° (extension 40mm), secondary bevel or honing angle is 30° (extension 30mm). Chisels are clamped in the upper pair of jaws facing the opposite direction to plane irons and the extension is measured from the body on the end .[/QUOTE]

You wrote above to clamp plane iron in lower jaws and chisel in top jaws. Have I done it wrong in photos? It seemed more natural to clamp plane in wider jaws. I put them facing in opposite direction too (as you stated).

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I wouldn't use an electric grinder

I think I'd have to agree.

Any machine dry grinding process runs the risk of the user, and especially an inexperienced user, drawing the temper of the tool. Many woodworking tools utilise a low carbon steel, called a tool steel. Whilst this type of steel can take and hold a really sharp edge, the steel itself can easily lose its' temper (and thus its' hardness characteristics) by simply overheating it. It is generally evidenced by the metal turning a blue colour at the surface, and steel displaying this colouration is referred to as "blued". I regularly use an abrasive dry belt grinder, and that tool suffers from the same issues as a conventional dry bench grinder (albeit not as aggressively). All this means that the only safe way to grind on powered dry grinders is to regularly remove the tool from the abrasive and immerse it in a bath of cold water (I use a baking mixing bowl placed at the side of my grinder). The one upside of dry grinders is that they are really fast.