Around the 'target figure' I mentionedGood result John, but how much did you pay in the end?
Kind Regards, John
Around the 'target figure' I mentionedGood result John, but how much did you pay in the end?
Why must it be safety related ?What could a Fluke 1652 do if no test leads were inserted that would be so hazardous to people or deleterious to the tester that it needs to know if leads have been inserted?
Indeed - it might just be a revenue-creating ploy (don't forget, it's very probable that my old 1652 is in perfectly good working order, other than it thinks leads are not connected, an MK want ~£430 to 'repair' it {'by replacement}).Why must it be safety related ?
I must be dim, because I can't see why that would be a reason for having a 'leads present' test. What am I missing?One possible reason is that they are going as far as they can down the road of 4 point measurements - at least the split socket could allow them to measure/compensate for contact resistance between socket and lead (and also PCB track resistance etc).
No. There is only one set of 3 'holes' (L, N & PE), regardless of what sort of test one is doing, and the power-on-test refuses to allow the machine to work if it thinks (rightly or wrongly!) that the L and/or PE leads are not plugged in.Not being conversant with your tester, is not the point of it to tell the meter where the actual lead is plugged in, so it can only do relevant tests to the lead position,ie not test current or test voltage with the leads in wrong hole
Well if you are going to do a 4 point measurement, then you really want to know that your sense leads are actually connected.I must be dim, because I can't see why that would be a reason for having a 'leads present' test. What am I missing?
Indeed. However, as I said to Rocky, there are only two leads which are tested (L and PE) - and if either of those is not connected, you're not going to get any 'measurement'!Well if you are going to do a 4 point measurement, then you really want to know that your sense leads are actually connected.
Yes, possibly, although I have offered a more cynical suggestion! They might at least offer an option to turn off this 'functionality' for those who didn't want it!But it could be nothing more than "we can do that, so we will do that"
Thing is, you might get some sort of reading, just not one that relates to the actual resistance being measured. The unit could driving a current through the load, but without sense connections it may well get erroneous readings - it all depends on the input circuitry as to what it'll do with an open circuit input.However, as I said to Rocky, there are only two leads which are tested (L and PE) - and if either of those is not connected, you're not going to get any 'measurement'!
I'm still a bit confused by whatever you're suggesting. This machine obviously does not offer 4-point testing. It has just two leads used for measuring ('low') resistance, and when they are plugged in the two halves of each split socket are shorted together by the inserted metal 'pin'. If one plugs in something (anything conductive and 4mm diameter will do!), but does not connected it to anything, then the display one gets is simply ">2000Ω".Thing is, you might get some sort of reading, just not one that relates to the actual resistance being measured. The unit could driving a current through the load, but without sense connections it may well get erroneous readings - it all depends on the input circuitry as to what it'll do with an open circuit input.
Maybe (if/when I understand what you're suggesting!). However, simple answers are often the right ones, and the simplest answer would probably be that they split the sockets so that they could test to see whether the leads had been plugged in (for whatever reason!)!As I say, it's only one possibility for why they've split the sockets like that.
I can't say that I have ever noticed any difference. If one powers up with both L and PE leads connected (it doesn't test for the N one), it just works. If one powers up the machine with the L and/or PE leads not plugged in, it just displays "LEAd" and won't let you do anything else with the machine. However, if one then plugs in the 'missing' lead(s), it then starts working as normal.Do you plug these leads in prior to powering up, i read elsewhere it starts different if they are plugged in, as opposed to them not plugged in which i read is flukes preferred start method.
If one powers up the machine with the L and/or PE leads not plugged in, it just displays "LEAd" and won't let you do anything else with the machine. However, if one then plugs in the 'missing' lead(s), it then starts working as normal.
Yes, I qas describing what a normally functioning 1652 does. As you say, with my old one the "LEAd" would just not go away, even with leads plugged in.I take it thats what its meant to do and now it stays on LEAd.
I'm pretty sure that will have been one of the first things I tried, but I'll try again when I have a moment, jsut to be sure!Apparently the start sequence is internal so you wont have noticed and in the Manual it says power up with no leads in. without reading 146 posts i assume you have tried starting it with NO leads in
Just done that and it shows all the display figures, then clicks and shows LEAd.i assume you have tried starting it with NO leads in
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