- Joined
- 29 May 2020
- Messages
- 17
- Reaction score
- 0
- Country
Oh thank god you have finally realised. Please just take this to a specialist and get them to sort it or better still scrap the car an buy a new one for everyone’s sake and safety!!!!
wheel barely spins, Droning noise, hot caliper , what is the problem here ?
- Thread starter Rightboy91
- Start date
- Status
Oh thank god you have finally realised. Please just take this to a specialist and get them to sort it or better still scrap the car an buy a new one for everyone’s sake and safety!!!!
Sponsored Links
Quick, get up the patent office. You have a machine on your hands that can turn fresh air into oil.
Seriously, don’t worry about it too much. As long as it’s using less oil than fuel, just keep an eye on the oil level.
Last edited:
- Joined
- 29 May 2020
- Messages
- 17
- Reaction score
- 0
- Country
Actually joking aside where do you live @Rightboy91 i could pop over and do you a favour. I have a gallon of petrol and a match. I guarantee this will sort out all your problems in one go guaranteed
Sponsored Links
- Joined
- 29 May 2020
- Messages
- 17
- Reaction score
- 0
- Country
I just spat my coffee out!
Andy
Well come on most people with any ounce of common sense would have either got it fixed by now or scrapped the car
- Joined
- 19 Apr 2020
- Messages
- 535
- Reaction score
- 2
- Country
I guess the oil is starting to collect in the pipes, before the throttle body....rest assured, it will be back!
John
Hey Buherman.
I was reading a post online of someone else with the same problem of oil in the circuit board of the throttle body of his car with same engine as my car. somebody said this to him
In plain terms, the oil separator at the rear of the engine pics up oil from the sump & is sucked up & is carried straight into the throttle body! on its way it goes through the intercooler & leaves a layer/deposit in the bottom (hence you will see an amount on here with blown intercoolers always gone in the bottom) & there's always oil in there being sucked through the system. Part the rubber/steel pipe at the rear of the engine at the position ringed in the post/link/pic, leave the metal pipe open, then follow the metal pipe towards the dipstick & part there blanking the rubber pipe by the dipstick & leaving the metal pipe open (this is now not connected to anything at both ends), depending how bad your system is oil contaminated it may take a week or so to clear. (another pic of a bung/bolt somone else used at the front).
Last edited by the-wizard; 13th March 2012 at 16:39.
could this be the case with my car rather than potentially being the turbo ?
I certainly can't argue with that, but this usually occurs if either the oil level is too high or the engine is very worn.
All engines have a separator of some kind, all they do is to allow fumes out but keep the liquid oil back. I think the recommendation is just to allow crankcase fumes to vent into the atmosphere like the days gone by rather than having them burnt.
How relevant this is to your particular engine, I can't say.
John
All engines have a separator of some kind, all they do is to allow fumes out but keep the liquid oil back. I think the recommendation is just to allow crankcase fumes to vent into the atmosphere like the days gone by rather than having them burnt.
How relevant this is to your particular engine, I can't say.
John
You might have more luck on a model-specific forum. There are bound to be people who have had the same problem. Looking at the quote above, BE CAREFUL to ensure that crankcase gasses can vent from the engine block. Normally, your engine is full of air, with a bit of oil in the sump at the bottom. When running, the oil is being splashed around inside that space by the moving parts. As the engine warms up, the air in it expands and has to go somewhere. If it can't expand, a pressure will build up and it will force its way past the oil seals. Similarly, when you shut down and it cools, it will contract again, so you need to let air back in.
In the olden days, as Burnerman says, the breather used to be open to atmosphere. However, emissions control legislation forced manufacturers to connect it to the inlet tract so that the oil fumes got sucked into the engine and burned, rather than just venting to atmosphere. This means that if you simply disconnect the pipe, you'll end up with an air leak where your engine is now sucking clean air into itself rather than crankcase fumes. On the other hand, if you block off the end of the pipe that leads into the engine, it will probably run too rich because it won't be sucking ANYTHING in.
Adding a turbo into the equation complicates things even more because now there could be a positive pressure inside those pipes at times (i.e. when the engine is on boost). Sadly, whilst, as other have said, a BIT of oil in those pipes is absolutely normal, a lot of it is either something wrong with the crankcase breather system (such as worn piston rings allowing too much crankcase pressure to build up) OR worn turbo seals, allowing oil to be blown into the inlet tract. In my limited experience of these matters, it's more often the turbo seals.
Haven't you junked this scap yet?
Andy
Andy
While this thread offers some mild entertainment value now they're running out of Corrie episodes I can't help thinking that someone should set up one of those charity crowdfunding pages to buy the poor bloke a new car so he can get back to his day job.
What is his day job? Running up threads on diynot?
Andy
Andy
- Joined
- 29 May 2020
- Messages
- 17
- Reaction score
- 0
- Country
he is a Vauxhall mechanic
Kev, you are a funny guy.
Andy
- Joined
- 29 May 2020
- Messages
- 17
- Reaction score
- 0
- Country
Kev, you are a funny guy.
Andy
you know who I am lol
- Status
Sponsored Links
Similar threads
- Locked
