Which tool to chase walls for wiring (Ed.)

Something I have done a quite a few times is use a normal wood hand saw to cut two slits side by side as wide as needed to accommodate the cable or trunking then use a hand chisel to chisel out the bit between the slits which should then chisel out quite easily. This way minimises the dust, another trick is to tape a shoe box to the wall just under where you are working so that the bits that fall do not fall a long way and hit the floor in a could of dust and keep moving it up as you go.
Yes the saw looses it teeth as they wear down quick doing that but its that saw that I replaced because it had lost its edge but I did not throw it away

You used a saw to cut through plaster and bricks????
 
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If you're putting T&E in you'll need to create a safe zone by installing a visible accessory on the vertical / horizontal line of the cable run, btw. If the cable is to be buried less than 50mm deep you'd be wise to consider adding RCD based protection if it's not already there
150mm from an internal or external corner is also an acceptable zone to run cables in, without the need for accessory boxes to show their presence.
 
If you're putting T&E in you'll need to create a safe zone by installing a visible accessory on the vertical / horizontal line of the cable run, btw. If the cable is to be buried less than 50mm deep you'd be wise to consider adding RCD based protection if it's not already there

I get what you are saying, but if the OP has a consumer unit with RCB protection, fitting a separate RCD spur might be a waste given that the trip time might be slower than the RCB in the consumer unit.
 
You used a saw to cut through plaster and bricks????
Sorry I should of said just the plaster - when its deep enough to be all the depth you need.
But you can get hand masonry saws and I have cut down a 3foot tall single skin wall with one as it was inside the house and did not want the dust.
 
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150mm from an internal or external corner is also an acceptable zone to run cables in, without the need for accessory boxes to show their presence.
Fairly sure I said that, other than the specifics of the measurement.. But thanks for confirming!


I get what you are saying, but if the OP has a consumer unit with RCB protection
If the OP had a CU with an RCD then RCD protection is already there and I wouldn't advocate adding another
 
You might want to consider a scutching chisel or an Sds scutching chisel and you can get combed scutches for them making it easier too.
I bought a scutch chisel on recommendation on here last year, I was well chuffed it worked really great for chopping out for back boxes.

I didn’t know you could get an SDS version, might look into that
 
Sorry I should of said just the plaster - when its deep enough to be all the depth you need.
But you can get hand masonry saws and I have cut down a 3foot tall single skin wall with one as it was inside the house and did not want the dust.

I have never seen those. I have only seen the ones for thermolite blocks.

Do you have a link?
 
Cheers guys... you all have been really helpful!! I've learnt alot here. Hopefully u can put some of it to practice!

Just final questions.

So for T and E in conduit . How deep does it need to go into the wall/chimney
..is there a minimum depth I need to dig?

Whats the best Conduit size for 2.5mm twin and earth.?
 
capping or conduit is there to protect from the plasterers trowel and does not offer value as protection from screws, nails and drills etc.
Both conduit or capping is available in metal or plastic.
In practice, metal conduit can offer some protection from screws, nails or even drills, even the weak thin stuff to a small degree, just try drilling or nailing thru it with any great accuracy, it`s not always easy!
 

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