Boiler working, Pump Working, Actuator working but No Heat or Water. Can anyone help?

[Bobbymost]

The screw that you used to bleed the pump is silver coloured,as said above removing it will expose the shaft ,so you can see if it is rotating.
Above the motorised valve is a short stub of pipe with a venting screw ,release the screw to bleed air from the coil .

Hi Terry, Is it ok to remover the silver screw? I dont want water flooding out of it. Also the short stub. I have lessened it but im worried about opening it too much in case it starts a flow of water and i cant get it back in. Is it safe to screw it out altogether?

 

[Johntheo5]

You have checked that there is water in the smaller of the two cisterns?, sometimes the ball cock gets stuck shut (up).

 

[terryplumb]

Best done when the system has been off and cooled for a while. Yes the screw can be removed from the pump,water will come out ,more of a trickle,so have large towel on hand. The short stub should not have it's screw removed ,just loosen it . Air will come out if present ,followed by water ( rather like bleeding a radiator).
Reading your other thread ,you said that water in the cylinder is now heated ,but still no central heating ,is that so ? If it is ,there isn't any real point in venting the stub of pipe but won't do any harm.
I assume the boiler has heated the cylinders water ,not an electric immersion heater ?

 

[Bobbymost]

The screw that you used to bleed the pump is silver coloured,as said above removing it will expose the shaft ,so you can see if it is rotating.
Above the motorised valve is a short stub of pipe with a venting screw ,release the screw to bleed air from the coil .

I started to take the big screw out but its ****ing water so i got cold feet lol

 

[Bobbymost]

Best done when the system has been off and cooled for a while. Yes the screw can be removed from the pump,water will come out ,more of a trickle,so have large towel on hand. The short stub should not have it's screw removed ,just loosen it . Air will come out if present ,followed by water ( rather like bleeding a radiator).
Reading your other thread ,you said that water in the cylinder is now heated ,but still no central heating ,is that so ? If it is ,there isn't any real point in venting the stub of pipe but won't do any harm.
I assume the boiler has heated the cylinders water ,not an electric immersion heater ?

Sorry Terry i sent my last message before i saw yours. I loosened the short stub and water came straight out. No air. The water was heated by the boiler yes, Not the immersion heater

 

[terryplumb]

If you select only central heating ( no demand for cylinder water to be heated) on your programmer,with any heating thermostat calling for heat ,does boiler fire up ?

 

[Johntheo5]

So you are now saying the system works OK on HW but not on CH?, that sounds more like the mid position valve.

 

[Bobbymost]

So you are now saying the system works OK on HW but not on CH?, that sounds more like the mid position valve.

correct

 

[Bobbymost]

So you are now saying the system works OK on HW but not on CH?, that sounds more like the mid position valve.

I bought and fitted a new Actuator yesterday so that is tested and working fine. I have two radiators that were hot but the rest are all cold

 

[Bobbymost]

So you are now saying the system works OK on HW but not on CH?, that sounds more like the mid position valve.

Ahhh the Valve? Actually i had a feeling that might be the issue i spoke about it to the wife last night. It's probably a cheap way of fining out. I will get a new one and give it a go. After that all i can think of its the Pump but im sure that works.

 

[dilalio]

I have two radiators that were hot but the rest are all cold

So, unless you've got reverse circulation from the hot water, then you also have heating as 2 rads are getting hot!

It's either a weak pump or your CH system is unbalanced or blocked.

Probably blocked judging by the state of the wiring in your photo.

As in poor upkeep.

 

[Johntheo5]

Try it on HW and CH, ensure both the cylinder stat and the room stat are calling (turn them up if necessary), if you get both HW&CH then the valve is working in mid position, then just programme off the HW and see does the boiler continue to fire on CH only., if it doesn't, pull on the manual lever on the valve actuator, you should feel a fairly stiff resistance immediately, if you do then could be a number of things but check that first.

 

[Bobbymost]

So, unless you've got reverse circulation from the hot water, then you also have heating as 2 rads are getting hot!

It's either a weak pump or your CH system is unbalanced or blocked.

Probably blocked judging by the state of the wiring in your photo.

As in poor upkeep.

There is nothing wrong with the wiring i had just put a new Actuator in and not put the cover back on when i took the picture. Thats why i said to ignore the wires. The Exectrics are not the issue but thanks for the input

 

[Bobbymost]

If you select only central heating ( no demand for cylinder water to be heated) on your programmer,with any heating thermostat calling for heat ,does boiler fire up ?

yes it fires up

 

[terryplumb]

Run heating ,close the TRV ( or wheel head valve if no TRV) on those radiators that heat up currently,and see if cold radiators now heat up. Don't touch the lock shield valves on the rads that currently heat up.
How many cold rads are there ?