central heating from a log burner

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For safety. At least 15% of your back boiler's output must be covered using heat leak radiators. That's why I asked you earlier if you knew what the output was, so you could calculate the size of radiator required. Without that information you're a bit stuck.
 
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For safety. At least 15% of your back boiler's output must be covered using heat leak radiators. That's why I asked you earlier if you knew what the output was, so you could calculate the size of radiator required. Without that information you're a bit stuck.

That setup would definately invalidate any household insurance you probably don't even have.
Wet boilers for logburners are a very specific hetas ticket.
But I still dont get the principle for the need of the radiator. But can this be a standard house hold radiator mounted to the floor, heating the room doing its job as normal or must it be a gravity feed one as the in said diagram
 
House coal is banned for domestic use in England now.
LPG you can fill at the petrol stationBottled gas- yes it has gone mad. Have a look at these or similar if bottled gas is a permanent requirement .
Again not done the sums recently, looked about 5 years ago and i would have been in profit after the 5th bottle fill. But at the time i was only using 1 bottle a year (in the caravan) and mains gas was much cheaper at home.
I just tried the branch in Wigan and they want 200 quid a bottle! Makes you think if it is worth while

However I do have a propane to LPG adapter but its just finding someone with a car that I can hide it in the boot while I fill up at Morrisons
 
Morrisons LPG pumps are locked - the staff will need to inspect your cylinder before allowing you to fill it - no dodgy adaptors any more.

I haven't used my own "dodgy adaptor" for a while although it's a deluxe car mounted system and I could probably get away with it as it looks like it's for running the car on, apart from the car being diesel!

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The other local garage was less fussy but charged 95p a litre and it was cheaper to buy 47kg bottles and decant into smaller ones for my caravan.

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Flogas is in Hyde and maybe around £100 or Chorley Bottled Gas are usually up to no good and have been prosecuted for unauthorised refilling of Calor bottles.
 
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But I still dont get the principle for the need of the radiator. But can this be a standard house hold radiator mounted to the floor, heating the room doing its job as normal or must it be a gravity feed one as the in said diagram
The heat loss radiator has to be there to maintain the thermosyphon (so that even if power is off there is still a temperature difference between flow and return so water will continue to circulate and remove heat from the woodburner).
If you can position the heat loss rad so it can perform its gravity flow job and usefully warm a room then happy days (bathroom or landing is favourite, you wouldn't want it in a bedroom).
And no you cannot put a TRV or any other sort of valve on it.
 
Morrisons LPG pumps are locked - the staff will need to inspect your cylinder before allowing you to fill it - no dodgy adaptors any more.

I haven't used my own "dodgy adaptor" for a while although it's a deluxe car mounted system and I could probably get away with it as it looks like it's for running the car on, apart from the car being diesel!



The other local garage was less fussy but charged 95p a litre and it was cheaper to buy 47kg bottles and decant into smaller ones for my caravan.



Flogas is in Hyde and maybe around £100 or Chorley Bottled Gas are usually up to no good and have been prosecuted for unauthorised refilling of Calor bottles.
I guess it depends upon the garage in question. But that fitting on your first photo looks the same as my fitting

Is that how you transfer from big to small bottle then. upside down and chilled in cold water bucket for absorbshon

Did you dry Morrisons in Denton?
 
The heat loss radiator has to be there to maintain the thermosyphon (so that even if power is off there is still a temperature difference between flow and return so water will continue to circulate and remove heat from the woodburner).
If you can position the heat loss rad so it can perform its gravity flow job and usefully warm a room then happy days (bathroom or landing is favourite, you wouldn't want it in a bedroom).
And no you cannot put a TRV or any other sort of valve on it.
So it has to be gravity feed then. So using a radiator upstairs will do the job? why not bedroom
TRV?
 
So it has to be gravity feed then. So using a radiator upstairs will do the job? why not bedroom
TRV?
Because that rad will be emitting heat while the woodburner is hot and there's no other thermal load on the system. If you want to put it in a bedroom then carry on but since you cannot switch the rad off you may end up with a very hot room.
 
Because that rad will be emitting heat while the woodburner is hot and there's no other thermal load on the system. If you want to put it in a bedroom then carry on but since you cannot switch the rad off you may end up with a very hot room.
Oh i see! it must be in circulation all the time then for it to do its job of safety. Must the radiator be placed in the middle between the tank and the boiler in the 2 diagrams I drew?
 
Did you dry Morrisons in Denton?

The nearest to me is Chadderton, that one had the padlock on the pump and the "seek assistance from staff" sign I might check out Denton.

It's hard work getting the last bit out of the bottle as the pressure equalises but the water helps. The last few kgs just won't, and it starts flowing back into the big one so I just burn that off on the BBQ.
 
Oh i see! it must be in circulation all the time then for it to do its job of safety. Must the radiator be placed in the middle between the tank and the boiler in the 2 diagrams I drew?
Yes. And the tank needs to be open (as in open vent system) and be full (well half full) of water- detail not shown on the generic drawing is a mains cold water supply to a metal ball valve in the tank and an overflow from the tank (usually through the eaves and into a gutter - don't let it just drip onto the pavement cos under fault conditions the tank might be boiling.

Pipe from the TOP of your burner wants to go up and over the f & e tank- that is the vent, the top of the 180 wants to be at least 500mm above tank water level.
You can tee off that pipe and connect to the TOP of your heatloss rad- the T must rise towards the rad
Pipe from the BOTTOM of your burner wants to fit to the bottom of the f & e tank. You can tee off that pipe and connect to the diagonal BOTTOM of the heat loss rad- the T ideally will fall from rad to pipe.
 
but its just finding someone with a car that I can hide it in the boot while I fill up at Morrisons
What a way to live! Surely someone in your 'movement' of off-grid conspiracy fantasists has a 2CV parked up outside their 'van? Do any of the ‘movement' live off-grid like you are aiming to achieve? Do they have such a heating or wc system like you're aiming for or do they all live in houses with all 'mod cons'?
 
Yes. And the tank needs to be open (as in open vent system) and be full (well half full) of water- detail not shown on the generic drawing is a mains cold water supply to a metal ball valve in the tank and an overflow from the tank (usually through the eaves and into a gutter - don't let it just drip onto the pavement cos under fault conditions the tank might be boiling.
So if our header radiator needs venting then it will require 3 holes to it, water in and out and a vent right? or a ball instead

Pipe from the TOP of your burner wants to go up and over the f & e tank- that is the vent, the top of the 180 wants to be at least 500mm above tank water level.
You can tee off that pipe and connect to the TOP of your heatloss rad- the T must rise towards the rad
Pipe from the BOTTOM of your burner wants to fit to the bottom of the f & e tank. You can tee off that pipe and connect to the diagonal BOTTOM of the heat loss rad- the T ideally will fall from rad to pipe.
Like this? so what about the out put of the rad?
 

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What a way to live! Surely someone in your 'movement' of off-grid conspiracy fantasists has a 2CV parked up outside their 'van? Do any of the ‘movement' live off-grid like you are aiming to achieve? Do they have such a heating or wc system like you're aiming for or do they all live in houses with all 'mod cons'?
The all live in houses with mod cons but think the trailer idea is a great idea in preperation for the great reset In fact if I get this one up and running i am going to buy a double decker and turn it into a secret meeting den. Though some do have camper vans so i will ask about this idea of hidding the bottle with them and see what they say
 
Like this? so what about the out put of the rad?
Surely you connect both connections to the rad to both connections to the heater, teeing off from one of them to go to the header tank to act as the fill/expansion pipe?
 

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