A 2 amp plug and socket would provide better isolation.
1 amp fuses, though available with difficulty, are not standard. The only officially recognised BS1362 fuses are 3 and 13 amp.
TV in bathroom - regs and safety
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A 2 amp plug and socket would provide better isolation.
1 amp fuses, though available with difficulty, are not standard. The only officially recognised BS1362 fuses are 3 and 13 amp.
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Yes it would. Yopu got that bit right. But that would require the power unit to be modified from fitting a 13 amp type socket to fit the 2 amp type of socket.
There are some manufacturers who disagree, you had better contact them and inform them of their mistake
BS1362 1amp easy to buy here
The image is a typical and shows a 10 amp ( also not one that Winston would accept ) but the fuse refered to is a 1 amp fuse
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QED.
Yes.
My opinion is a good one, yours is a barking mad, unwelcome, unhelpful, disruptive one and you should not be allowed, any more, to pollute the forum with it.
Ah - there we go - the good old Winston "reasoning". Since neither of us are moderators we cannot carry out any unwelcome moderation, can we.
Reason is to Winston what double-entry book keeping is to fish.
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Again your opinion.
And shared with every single person here except for the barking mad, unwelcome, unhelpful, disruptive one.
Criticism from the person who in the very next sentence proves that he knows less
Wrong. The second amplifier will amplify the noise introduced by the first amplifier, so in the general case it IS a very bad practice to cascade amplifiers - you get more signal but do NOT get more signal/noise. Also, the signal (if using a decent aerial, these were "questionable") is not so poor* that it would need two cascaded amplifiers to get to a usable level. In this case, there were only a few feet of cable between the amplifiers - so a sensibly selected single distribution amp in the loft would have done the job.
About the only case where cascaded amps makes sense is where there is a long cable from the aerial (and first amp) to the distribution amp - and so the first amp is merely compensating for the losses in the feed cable, losses that will also reduce the noise introduced by the first amp and thus leave the S/N ratio about the same.
Not my job to spec things, electrics were already done before we started looking at it. In this house, already covered over, in other houses, still at first fix. it seems the developer didn't communicate well with his builder as I assume the latter arranged for the aerials to be installed - the former didn't know he was coming or even who he was ! The installer insisted on having a power supply (yes, I'd have simply picked a line powered unit - thus not needing a power supply), and the only reasonable way to provide it was to tap into the light circuit accessible in the loft.
Were I involved from early enough, then there would have been a LOT of changes done - like not precluding electric cooking, providing for 20th century communications (phone and network), etc. But on the other hand, I don't think I could bear to buy a new build - just too much wrong with them (in general) and I'd want to build my own so I could do it right (not that it's likely I'll ever be able to afford to do that).
Buried in the walls at first fix. And done in the most non-repairable way possible by clipping directly to the wall and then plastering over. There were a lot of things in that house I didn't like - if he'd cut any more corners they'd have been round ! In a way I was disappointed when Mum pulled out, I was looking forward to trying to get the sparkies thrown out of NICEIC for fraudulently claiming compliance with BS7671
I know it would never happen, but it would serve the lying b'stards right to at least have to explain themselves.* OK, slightly different location, but at Mum's house not far away I actually ended up putting in attenuators as the high-gain Yagi picked up more than we needed and that caused some minor issues with some kit - mostly picking up another off-axis main transmitter causing tuning problems.
Back to the original question, not that the OP is likely to still be reading
I've seen bathroom TVs done where the TV is in a an enclosure that is sealed from the bathroom and with a glass window to see the TV through. The IR remote works through the glass, the TV and all the connections are sealed away - needing a screwdriver to remove the front of the enclosure to access anything.
I've seen bathroom TVs done where the TV is in a an enclosure that is sealed from the bathroom and with a glass window to see the TV through. The IR remote works through the glass, the TV and all the connections are sealed away - needing a screwdriver to remove the front of the enclosure to access anything.
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Criticism from the person who in the very next sentence proves that he knows less
Wrong. The second amplifier will amplify the noise introduced by the first amplifier, so in the general case it IS a very bad practice to cascade amplifiers - you get more signal but do NOT get more signal/noise. Also, the signal (if using a decent aerial, these were "questionable") is not so poor* that it would need two cascaded amplifiers to get to a usable level. In this case, there were only a few feet of cable between the amplifiers - so a sensibly selected single distribution amp in the loft would have done the job.
About the only case where cascaded amps makes sense is where there is a long cable from the aerial (and first amp) to the distribution amp - and so the first amp is merely compensating for the losses in the feed cable, losses that will also reduce the noise introduced by the first amp and thus leave the S/N ratio about the same.
We are talking about 2 different sorts of amplifier. The mast head amp is used with weak signals to get a decent signal launched into the cable. But I do agree if the signal is good you don't need the mast head amp. Having got a decent signal to noise ratio at the other end a distribution amplifier is used to split it. Very common on communal systems. Why do you think the distribution amp has a DC voltage output to feed a mast head amp.
Indeed we are. I agreed that there are cases where the masthead is needed - this wasn't one of them (what's the signal loss in 4 foot of decent coax ?) In general (ie most installations WITH A SENSIBLE AERIAL and typical cable run lengths), all the masthead is doing is add noise, thus degrading the S/N ratio.
Mostly to pander to f***wits who fit a sh*t aerial, wire it with damp string, and then bodge the system with unnecessary amplifiers to get it to work. But it's a logical fallacy to think that because the dist amp has the supply for the masthead amp, that a masthead amp is "normal" - if any of the users need a supply for a masthead, then it makes sense for the manufacturer to provide it, and it makes no sense to incur the cost of having a separate one (without supply) "for the masses" that don't need it.
Analogy : Why do you think that (almost) all cars have fixings/electrical connections to allow them to tow a trailer ? It's not because all of them need to tow a trailer, it's because a small minority have that need so the capability has to be there.
You never said this was a case where a masthead was not needed.
Why only 4 feet of coax? An aerial should be mounted well clear of the roof line. A typical mast/pole is 6 feet long. Then the cable has to get into the loft.
Bit rough though
Why ? and loft aerials ? what about them
My aerial was mast mounted before the re-thatch, moved to be at the side of the stack and the signal is just as good. 14 miles from Sandy Heath
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Recognised by who? Fuses of the following sizes are produced by various reputable manufacturers and marked with BS1362. Surely these are officially recognised?
1A, 2A, 3A, 5A, 7A, 10A and 13A.
If you mean recognised by appliance manufacturers, just because they have decided to fit only 3A or 13A fuses does not mean the others are invalid.
Don't forget the appliance manufacturers decided that a 13A fuse can protect a 0.75mm2. Look in the regs and that is not to BS7671.
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