Need help disabling one light switch of a two-way circuit

Perhaps try another light bulb and see if you get the same flashing.

But we need to double check the connections are good at the joint between the 3 core and the twin at the disused switch position.

A pic of those if not already posted would be good.

I've already tried a different LED as well as a CFL bulb. In the CFL's case, instead of dimming - it would flash every ~30 secs.

I'm not sure what you mean an about the joint - how should it look? I already mentioned how the cabling was, not sure if thats enough? There's already a generic phot of the disused end, though I'm guessing that doesn't help?
 
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Just checking you have joined the cabling as previously described and got the live and switch wire the right way round
 
Just checking you have joined the cabling as previously described and got the live and switch wire the right way round
Right now, everything is disconnected as we were trying all sorts to get it to stop having the residual current thing. But otherwise, all the wiring would have been as previously described. The whole residual current thing was happening when the unwanted switch end was wired as red+red, black+blue and then the rest separately terminated (earths would eventually be joined together)

On the switch end, I had a red going to L and a blue going to L1 (shown in picture on first page)
 
I turned the power on and touched the red & black together (on the side of the circuit where I want things to no longer work) and it didn't do anything. Sigh.

Could it be that the rose isn't connected properly? It was originally elsewhere and my father moved it to the center of the room, but I assumed he wired it correctly. To be fair after he moved it, the light switch did work, until he disconnected the one that I don't want to be using anymore.
Trawling through the whole post again, I saw this.

You need to do some testing to find out what's what.

First, check your Quinetic unit works. Get an old lamp holder and some bits of flex. Put a plug on one bit of flex and take the live to the live terminal of the controller. Take the neutral to the lamp holder. Take another wire from the switch terminal of the controller to the other lamp holder terminal. Put the light bulb from this bedroom in the lamp holder and plug the test circuit in.

Does the light bulb illuminate?
 
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If it does, that proves the unit and the light bulb are OK.

And throws a suspect light on the way the bedroom light is wired up.
 
If your Dad extended some cables to reach the new position, that could be the source of the problem.

A loose connection perhaps, or a terminal screw going into the insulation.
 
If your Dad extended some cables to reach the new position, that could be the source of the problem.

A loose connection perhaps, or a terminal screw going into the insulation.
Question - could this actually be the cause of residual current? (I don't even know if that's what it's called)

As for testing the light switch, when I had everything wired up - the light switch would turn the light on and off no problem, surely that's enough to confirm it works, no?
 
Worth mentioning that he extended the rose wiring with a couple Wagos in a wago box
 
Now I'm confused!

The post of yours I quoted said you joined the live and switched live together and nothing happened.
 
Now I'm confused!

The post of yours I quoted said you joined the live and switched live together and nothing happened.
I think you're looking a bit far back tbh, the latest is that while I (supposedly) correctly terminated the the switch end I no longer want, the issue I have is the residual current. The original problem I've had when I posted this thread is no longer a problem, if that makes sense? I just want to figure out what could be wrong that when I turn the switch off, the light turns back on; albeit dimly.
 
Think I'll pop to screwfix tomorrow and grab a regular 1-gag switch and see what happens when I use that one maybe? Hope I can wire it properly, though.
 
Just put the old pull cord switch back on. One wire to COM and one to either L1 or L2.
 
Just put the old pull cord switch back on. One wire to COM and one to either L1 or L2.
Honestly the pull-cord switch fell apart pretty much as soon as it was taken off. I'll have a look tomorrow I guess.

I do wonder though, if it ends up being the case that the light works fine with a normal switch; why the residual with the quinetic...
 

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