Neighbour getting smells from our extractor fan?

Do the joists above run perpendicular to the long edges of that ceiling boarding? Can you sketch your house floorplan, including an indication of the locations of any attached neighbours ? How thick is the floor, from the surface of this boarded ceiling to the surface of the floor boards above? What does the room above look like?
Yes the joists above run perpendicular sadly
. I'll try and sketch the floor plan etc. The room above is the main bedroom with laminate flooring.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20250206_140915_Photos.jpg
    Screenshot_20250206_140915_Photos.jpg
    251.2 KB · Views: 34
And simply accepted, that it cannot be done. It is the only way to effectively prevent such smells, so a way simply has to be found, to discharge outdoors. Why even bother replacing a recirculating fan, which you know causes you issues, with a new one installed in the same way? You are gaining nothing, solving nothing....

There is always a way....

Could you fit an extract system, which extracted down, below the work surfaces, and through the cupboard, to discharge below the window?

Could you run a pipe along the ceiling, and have it discharge to the left of the window?

Why are you talking to electricians to install this for you? An electrician usually deals with the wiring, rather than the installation you need - what you need it a builder, or perhaps a general handyman.

Yes we wanted to do your send option but the joists above run perpendicular and not sure if an good idea to put holes in the joists?

Your first option down below ofcourse is possible but if you see the pictures, where would we run it? Probably jave to drill through the work surface.
 

Attachments

  • 20250206_141302.jpg
    20250206_141302.jpg
    257.9 KB · Views: 34
  • 20250206_141319.jpg
    20250206_141319.jpg
    277.7 KB · Views: 37
Your first option down below ofcourse is possible but if you see the pictures, where would we run it? Probably jave to drill through the work surface.

If that is the only way, it's the way you will have to do it - but I would explore the possibility of adding a duct exiting near that boiler first...
You might be able to run a duct to the corner, then up and out through the wall, between the joists.

No, you cannot cut 100mm notch through those floor joists..
 
Thanks. What is the smallest duct size you can get? Maybe it is possible to run a duct near the boiler Pipes?

one guy we had out said it is the same size as the white one you see on that photo for the boiler which obviously is far too big to fit in that space.
 

Attachments

  • 20250203_184805.jpg
    20250203_184805.jpg
    162.2 KB · Views: 26
If you remove part of the false ceiling, run some rectangular ducting as linked above by Diver Fred, use suitable angles to get around/above the boiler flue and out through the same wall. Then reinstall the false ceiling.

P.S don't forget to resite the electrical supply to the fan.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20250206_183708_OneDrive.jpg
    Screenshot_20250206_183708_OneDrive.jpg
    115 KB · Views: 23
  • Screenshot_20250206_183638_OneDrive.jpg
    Screenshot_20250206_183638_OneDrive.jpg
    108.4 KB · Views: 27
Links in this post may contain affiliate links for which DIYnot may be compensated.
If you remove part of the false ceiling, run some rectangular ducting as linked above by Diver Fred, use suitable angles to get around/above the boiler flue and out through the same wall. Then reinstall the false ceiling.

The OP needs to lift floor boards, in that corner, where those copper pipes go up, just to see where the joists are, and see what can be arranged by way of a duct.

Avoid the use of any flexible duct, it will rot, and even if it doesn't rot, it will cause tremendous restriction to the flow, and back-pressure.
 
Last edited:
Why not vent through the cabinet to the left of the hob (under boiler) ,with a flat extractor fan as close as possible to the base of the nearest unit .Even box it in under cabinet so its nearer hob .
Or use the existing extractor with all the panels off on its side and vent through the wall under the boiler and make up a suitable casing from the top cover .
 
If you remove part of the false ceiling, run some rectangular ducting as linked above by Diver Fred, use suitable angles to get around/above the boiler flue and out through the same wall. Then reinstall the false ceiling.

P.S don't forget to resite the electrical supply to the fan.
Yes this might be possible and the tradesman and I discussed this option. He said he suspects there's a joist running along between the
The OP needs to lift floor boards, in that corner, where those copper pipes go up, just to see where the joists are, and see what can be arranged by way of a duct.

Avoid the use of any flexible duct, it will rot, and even if it doesn't rot, it will cause tremendous restriction to the flow, and back-pressure.
Yes need to loft up some of those ceiling panels in that corner and see if there's any joists there. Tradesman said most likely there's one running along the edge there. But don't know for sure. If not then leaves few cm enough for ducting
 
Why not vent through the cabinet to the left of the hob (under boiler) ,with a flat extractor fan as close as possible to the base of the nearest unit .Even box it in under cabinet so its nearer hob .
Or use the existing extractor with all the panels off on its side and vent through the wall under the boiler and make up a suitable casing from the top cover .
First idea sounds possible. But does it matter that it would be venting downwards part of the way?
 
First idea sounds possible. But does it matter that it would be venting downwards part of the way?

Airflow, depends on the size of the duct, the internal smoothness, the length, plus the number of elbows and or bends, or other restrictions. Yes, the airflow can go down.
 
I think the main 3 options are

1) remove part of the false ceiling, run some rectangular ducting as linked above by Diver Fred, use suitable angles to get around/above the boiler flue and out through the same wall. Then reinstall the false ceiling.
This depends on if there is a joist behind the false ceiling. P.S don't forget to resite the electrical supply to the fan

2) Why not vent through the cabinet to the left of the hob (under boiler) ,with a flat extractor fan as close as possible to the base of the nearest unit .Even box it in under cabinet so its nearer hob .

3) Or use the existing extractor with all the panels off on its side and vent through the wall under the boiler and make up a suitable casing from the top cover .
 
I think the main 3 options are

1) remove part of the false ceiling, run some rectangular ducting as linked above by Diver Fred, use suitable angles to get around/above the boiler flue and out through the same wall. Then reinstall the false ceiling.
This depends on if there is a joist behind the false ceiling. P.S don't forget to resite the electrical supply to the fan

2) Why not vent through the cabinet to the left of the hob (under boiler) ,with a flat extractor fan as close as possible to the base of the nearest unit .Even box it in under cabinet so its nearer hob .

3) Or use the existing extractor with all the panels off on its side and vent through the wall under the boiler and make up a suitable casing from the top cover .
Why didnt we think of that :rolleyes:
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top