Yes, your product would work. I hadn't seen your edit.
For me, with the remote mount, having something neat and de-mountable was the preference - having a battery display was also a bonus.
Texecom JAL-0001 ComPort+ Digi Modem Port Pinout?
- Thread starter texecom
- Start date
For me, with the remote mount, having something neat and de-mountable was the preference - having a battery display was also a bonus.
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The 12v rail for the JAL-001 is probably rated lower than required, but the battery connection could work.
My concern is that I understand on the smaller panels 24/48/64 etc. the charging current is fixed at 0.3a and with the RPi having a consumption when running around that figure and peaking higher, powering the RPi from the battery would mean that the battery would not actually take a meaningful charge and would end up fully discharged after a number of days?
EDIT: I've looked up the specs for my panel and you can take around 1A on the auxiliary 12v line which should be enough providing you don't have too many wired sensors on your system so this could be an option to look at.
My concern is that I understand on the smaller panels 24/48/64 etc. the charging current is fixed at 0.3a and with the RPi having a consumption when running around that figure and peaking higher, powering the RPi from the battery would mean that the battery would not actually take a meaningful charge and would end up fully discharged after a number of days?
EDIT: I've looked up the specs for my panel and you can take around 1A on the auxiliary 12v line which should be enough providing you don't have too many wired sensors on your system so this could be an option to look at.
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UPDATE:
DCDC module arrived and terminated as required.
Connected to 12v Auxiliary power on the panel and checked module voltage output at 5.2v with no load (OK).
Tested working and replaced cover.
Diagnostics on the panel report that the system current is around 0.375A which is all the RPi02W because I have nothing else connected to the 12v supply.
I'll continue to test and then release more information later regarding the software setup side (full SSH command line setup using 64bit Bookworm Lite).
The SmartCom continues to function fully along side this wifi backdoor connection.
Where I currently have the RPi at present is not ideal because it is too close to the Ricochet 868Mhz internal antennae (everything still works fine) but this can be moved when I actually make up a proper connecting lead.
In these smaller panels it may be worth substituting the 7Ah battery for a 3.2Ah and then you could probably mount everything inside the panel?
DCDC module arrived and terminated as required.
Connected to 12v Auxiliary power on the panel and checked module voltage output at 5.2v with no load (OK).
Tested working and replaced cover.
Diagnostics on the panel report that the system current is around 0.375A which is all the RPi02W because I have nothing else connected to the 12v supply.
I'll continue to test and then release more information later regarding the software setup side (full SSH command line setup using 64bit Bookworm Lite).
The SmartCom continues to function fully along side this wifi backdoor connection.
Where I currently have the RPi at present is not ideal because it is too close to the Ricochet 868Mhz internal antennae (everything still works fine) but this can be moved when I actually make up a proper connecting lead.
In these smaller panels it may be worth substituting the 7Ah battery for a 3.2Ah and then you could probably mount everything inside the panel?
Last edited:
My RPi has been working rock solid on my panel since I installed it and I have even had to deploy another one on a Premier (non Elite) panel which had no monitoring, so that it could be monitored via Wintex whilst the building was empty for a prolonged period as a cheap and quick fix.
The configuration you have is basically the same as what I have from a serial connection point of view but I am communicating with a different software and protocol.
I have not played with Creston yet so if you can let me know how I could test what you need to know, what programs or commands I could try etc. maybe using PuTTY or similar I will be happy to put the panel in to Creston System on COM3 and give it a go?
The configuration you have is basically the same as what I have from a serial connection point of view but I am communicating with a different software and protocol.
I have not played with Creston yet so if you can let me know how I could test what you need to know, what programs or commands I could try etc. maybe using PuTTY or similar I will be happy to put the panel in to Creston System on COM3 and give it a go?
Right...
I've cracked it and yes this works no problem on COM3 with Crestron System and I have sent commands and received them back thorough PuTTY as image so it should actually work with Crestron.
You may note that the connection is 19200 8N1 otherwise it will not work!
This works even with a SmartCom connected on COM1 & COM2.
I've cracked it and yes this works no problem on COM3 with Crestron System and I have sent commands and received them back thorough PuTTY as image so it should actually work with Crestron.
You may note that the connection is 19200 8N1 otherwise it will not work!
This works even with a SmartCom connected on COM1 & COM2.
In terms of hardware you are going to need:
Panel Digi Modem port extension lead - this is the grey lead that should come with panel if required or you can bodge with the Dupont leads.
Comport adapter JAL-0001 - sometimes come with a SmartCom or try eBay, again you could bodge this with Dupont leads at your own risk.
Raspberry Pi Zero 2W (with header unless you can solder your own) - I had already but you could use any Pi 0/3/4/5 you have laying around.
It would be a good idea to have a genuine PSU for the Pi available as well whilst setting it up...
Suitable Case with header exposed - I had already but this is the same:
Good Quality MicroSD Card (8GB/16GB is fine) - I had already but these are good for the price:
USB MicroSD Card Reader (or a way to write an image to the SD card) - I had already
Level Shifter:
DC<>DC Convertor:
Selection of Dupont cables:
Selection of tools including soldering iron, solder, wire strippers etc.
Selection of cable ties, heatshrink and ferrules etc.
I think that is it!
I will write the connection guide up in the next few days and then how to configure the software afterwards...
Panel Digi Modem port extension lead - this is the grey lead that should come with panel if required or you can bodge with the Dupont leads.
Comport adapter JAL-0001 - sometimes come with a SmartCom or try eBay, again you could bodge this with Dupont leads at your own risk.
Raspberry Pi Zero 2W (with header unless you can solder your own) - I had already but you could use any Pi 0/3/4/5 you have laying around.
It would be a good idea to have a genuine PSU for the Pi available as well whilst setting it up...
Suitable Case with header exposed - I had already but this is the same:
Clear Plate Acrylic Case for Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W Case with Aluminum Heatsink | eBay
Clear Plate Acrylic Case for Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W Case with Aluminum Heatsink<br>Features: 100% brand new and high quality<br>Simple and transparent, easy to install.<br>Acrylic material case.<br>With the hole for heat sink design.<br>Tranparent color .<br>Use for Raspberry Pi Zero 2...
www.ebay.co.uk
Good Quality MicroSD Card (8GB/16GB is fine) - I had already but these are good for the price:
Loading…
www.amazon.co.uk
USB MicroSD Card Reader (or a way to write an image to the SD card) - I had already
Level Shifter:
Loading…
www.amazon.co.uk
DC<>DC Convertor:
DC/DC Converter Regulator 12V Stepdown to 5V 3A 15W Car Power Supply Module UK | eBay
Max power consumption: 15W. Output current: 3A (MAX). Converter Size: 6.50 2.70 1.40cm.
www.ebay.co.uk
Selection of Dupont cables:
Amazon.co.uk
www.amazon.co.uk
Selection of tools including soldering iron, solder, wire strippers etc.
Selection of cable ties, heatshrink and ferrules etc.
I think that is it!
I will write the connection guide up in the next few days and then how to configure the software afterwards...
Links in this post may contain affiliate links for which DIYnot may be compensated.
YMMV with the actual install and construction of this hack but I would start by terminating the DC module as per my image a few posts back which you can then connect to the RPi header as below:
Connect the grey Digi Modem cable and JAL-0001 COM Port adapter to the panel and connect Dupont cables to the COM Port 3:
The panel TXD connects to the RPi RXD and the panel RXD connects to the RPi TXD - BUT NOT YET - IT MUST GO VIA THE LEVEL CONVERTOR BOARD as pictured below. This is basically straight forward but you must have a 5v & 3.3v reference voltage connected to the convertor which are all available on the RPi header (pins 1/4/6) and using these pictures you should be able to work out how it works. This is a 4 channel module and we are only using 2 channels.
Hopefully these images are enough to get everything connected without breaking anything.
Once you have checked everything at least 10 times, connect the DC<>DC module up to the 12v rail on the panel and there should not be any smoke.
You can check there are the correct voltages in the right places on the header pins with a multi-meter but MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT SHORT ANY PINS AND KILL THE RPi OR PANEL!
You may wish to disconnect the DC<>DC module from the 12v rail until the SD CARD and software are configured which I will outline in another post.
I'll move on the the software next post
Connect the grey Digi Modem cable and JAL-0001 COM Port adapter to the panel and connect Dupont cables to the COM Port 3:
The panel TXD connects to the RPi RXD and the panel RXD connects to the RPi TXD - BUT NOT YET - IT MUST GO VIA THE LEVEL CONVERTOR BOARD as pictured below. This is basically straight forward but you must have a 5v & 3.3v reference voltage connected to the convertor which are all available on the RPi header (pins 1/4/6) and using these pictures you should be able to work out how it works. This is a 4 channel module and we are only using 2 channels.
Hopefully these images are enough to get everything connected without breaking anything.
Once you have checked everything at least 10 times, connect the DC<>DC module up to the 12v rail on the panel and there should not be any smoke.
You can check there are the correct voltages in the right places on the header pins with a multi-meter but MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT SHORT ANY PINS AND KILL THE RPi OR PANEL!
You may wish to disconnect the DC<>DC module from the 12v rail until the SD CARD and software are configured which I will outline in another post.
I'll move on the the software next post
The level converter, could you show some photos from other angles from your Pi to the board. On your pi your using the top post pin outs with in a row but then on your diagram your using a mix of 2? Sorry not trying to be stupid
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