central heating only comes on with h water, stumped engineer

Not sure whether it's relevant or not but there's a pairs of wires missing.
 
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Hi Dan, the 28mm and 15mm pipes run down the conduit at the side of the chimney towards the side of the boiler, what happens there i dont know
 
i dont know if it has been changed pumping wise as it was done before i moved in
 
i have taken the room stat cover off and there are 4 wires, live to No 1, neutral to 2, i guess an earth to 3

Wiring fault No1 perhaps. :rolleyes:
 
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i'm using honeywell st9400c timer, hoeywell roomstat, danfoss hsa3 actuater and danfoss wb 12 wiring centre,
Room stat brown (Pos 1) becomes live when CH is turned on, when RS is turned up the green (Pos 3) wire becomes live too

Where is this green wire in the wiring center.
 
i have taken the room stat cover off and there are 4 wires, live to No 1, neutral to 2, i guess an earth to 3

Wiring fault No1 perhaps. :rolleyes:

no it looks as though they have just used a 3core flex as

brown = common (1)
blue = neutral (2)
green/yellow = switched live/call (3)

sadly all too common an occurrence

Where is this green wire in the wiring center.

in with the brown/white I would imagine but the pic isn't too clear

Matt
 
Hi Dan, the 28mm and 15mm pipes run down the conduit at the side of the chimney towards the side of the boiler, what happens there i dont know

Can you access inside duct? Take a picture.

Hot water return on it own back to boiler by 28mm and heating return by 15mm back to boiler, correct?

Dan.
 
Nope definitely a blue in with the brown/white.

There's still a pr missing unless they are wired elsewhere.

There should be 3 prs in a Y plan.

htg call/RS 1

RS 3/brown/white

HWS call/CS com

The grey and orange has the correct number of wires.

There's two browns together, could be anything.

And the wrong colour in with the brown/white according to the information given.

which leaves a missing pair.
 
Nope definitely a blue in with the brown/white.

There's still a pr missing unless they are wired elsewhere.

There's two browns together, could be anything.

And the wrong colour in with the brown/white according to the information given.

which leaves a missing pair.


Yes defo blue just zoomed in I can see that now

from what I can work out the 2 browns are likely to be the hw on from programmer to cyl stat common

yes agreed and it is the room stat connections that are missing so I presume the room stat is connected at the programmer

from what I can see, the top left and top right flexes are boiler and pump
middle right, programmer
bottom right cylinder stat

Matt
 
Still doesn't make sense, You are suggesting the red to 1 goes directly from 4 in the programmer.

I see the green in 3 has changed to a yellow :rolleyes: and where does the blue switch live come from. ??

i have just reveiwed them again and one came up that mentioned the thermostat earth should be connected to L3 and not the earth, i have red to 1, blue to 2, yellow to 3 and the earth to the earth in my new honeywell thermostat, should the earth be connected in with the yellow wire to number 3?

I'll probably give up on the thread, there's too many conflicts and not enough input from the OP.

Still say it's a wiring fault.
 
Clearly those 'knots' in the cables create an inductance and prevents the circuits operating correctly as a result of the increased impedance!

You cannot be serious with that comment Mr A
 
I think the cable knots are there instead of screws to hold the box in place, although they probably also hold up the chandelier in the room below too.

Camel hump and apparent downward slope in the DHW feed from cylinder are the answers to any future 'airlocks' posting. Luckily there's a handy gate valve to speed the job up.

-The two 15mm pipework look like feed & return from a rad. Is there a room with rad the other side of the backboiler?
Having said that, in the photo labelled "22mm to and from upstairs rads" (pic4 top), is it two parallel 22mm pipes with 15mm tees, or one 22mm with 15mm tee and the other just bending round the back of the 15mm? Its hard to see if RHS 22mm run continues after the fitting into the shadow.

-Is that a tee or a bend just after gate valve below the 3 port where its labelled '22 to 28 to boiler'

-Is the '22 to 28 to boiler' pipe run (pic1) going on to become the pipe labelled 'from 3 port valve to under floor' (pic3 top) and then the pipe 'from 3 port valve' (pic3 bottom)?

-I assume the CH gate valve's spindle opens and closes fine and hasn't been sheared (valve below 3 port).
 
Further to 4xpaws post more detail on the pipe runs are required,

1, pic 1, does the pipe 22to28 tee into the pipe from the 3pv or does it
elbow down through the floor boards?

2, pic 3 bottom, where the pic shows pipe going up through floor boards
is this below the 3pv? and a continuation of the pipe 22to28 to boiler
(pic 1)

3, pic 3 bottom, what is the stub of pipe poking through the floor?
is this the end of the heating outlet of the 3pv?

4, Following the pipework in pic 2 / pic 1, heat from boiler comes up pipe labeled 22mm from boiler, to air sep, to pump, to 3pv in middle port,
from top of 3pv via gate valve to tank coil, OK so far.

pipe from bottom of 3pv via gate valve one would assume would go to heating circuit.

a, If pic 3 bottom is showing floor below 3pv why does pipe from 3pv end below floor?

b, if pipe "22to28 to boiler" is teed into pipe from 3pv, why do we need 2 supplies from boiler one pumped the other gravity, or if pipe connected to boiler return why pump heating water straight back to boiler.

c, is pipe "22to28 to boiler" the return to boiler from cylinder coil?

5, I cannot work out where pic 3 top is taken from, I assume its pipes on top of the floor but where?

6, last question, is it a 2 storey house with boiler on G/F. DHW cyl on 1st floor, with tanks in the loft.

David
 
If you are absolutely sure the gate valves work and the pump valves work, and I mean absolutely sure, next time you drain it remove the valves and be sure they are open when turned to be so. While its off you may as well split the pump and check the impeller is clear to eliminate that possible.

Assuming all the above is ok, I would remove the de-air eject unit and pipe it up as a conventional close coupled vent and cold feed.

If your not sure how, I am certain the experts on here will be able to explain.

Good luck
 
Why is everyone forgetting the heating works perfectly when on with the hot water. :rolleyes:
 

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